80-Series (Germany) — Enigma 17” + 295s (Maxxis or Cooper): ET-12 vs ET-38 for “no bodywork” setup?

[readheadhunter]

Hi everyone,
Lurker here from overseas. Was inspired by lots of threads here and fell in love with the enigmas.

Truck: ’98 FZJ80 (EU) — Location: Germany
It’s my second truck

Current mods (short):

• Suspension: OME lift ~+2.5”
• Brakes: Stainless braided hose frame→axle, extended
• Tires/Wheels (now): BFGoodrich KM3 285/75R16 on stock-style wheels
• Flares: OEM-type flares (keeping an old-timer/period-correct look is preferred)

My goal

• Step up to 17” Dirty Life Enigma (true beadlock) in Machined finish + 295/70R17 tires (Maxxis Razr AT811 preferred, or Cooper STT Pro if availability dictates).
• No bodywork (no cutting/rolling/pinch-weld mods) and no bumper changes.
• “Martial/beefy” stance but still a good all-rounder (mostly road, occasional off-road).
• Second rig (my DD is a LC150), so it can be a bit more aggressive.

Legal note (DE): I’ll be doing a TÜV Vollabnahme for the beadlocks. Expensive, but I really want the Machined Enigmas. I’ve read plenty of threads where folks went to 35s and later downsized, so I’m trying 295/70R17 as the best compromise.

Wheel options I’m considering (please sanity-check):

Dirty Life Enigma Race Beadlock 9313 — 17×9, 6×139.7, hub 106 mm, Machined

• ET −12 (backspacing ~4.53”) → PN: 9313-7983M12
• ET −38 (backspacing ~3.50”) → PN: 9313-7983M38

Tires I can actually buy in Europe right now

• Maxxis Razr AT811 295/70R17 (LT, Load E) — first choice if I can source them; otherwise
• Cooper Discoverer STT Pro 295/70R17 (LT) — plan B if Maxxis are scarce.

Questions for the hive mind
ET choice for 17×9 + 295/70R17 on an 80 with ~2.5” lift without bodywork:

• Is ET −12 the “sweet spot” that tucks properly and avoids fender contact at full lock/compression?
• Does ET −38 require wider flares (and/or create outer-lip contact under compression), even if clearance inside is great?
• What should I buy?

What am I missing?
If there’s a smarter “no-bodywork” combo (different offset/backspacing or a different 295 that measures smaller/tucks better), I’d appreciate the pointers — and EU sources for 295/70R17 Maxxis AT811 would be gold. Thank you so much!!! Thanks in advance!

With new body stripes

The wished goal (AI generated)

 

[ikarus]

17x9 et-12 is a great fitment in my opinion. This is my setup:
KMC Mesa beadlocks 17x9 et-12, Toyo MT 35x12.5r17

It's flush with the fenders and gives a nice stance without poking too far out.

-38 can look really good too, but I think -12 is a nice middle ground that gives you a nice stance and doesn't fling as much mud/rocks on your paint.

The only contact I've had with the fenders is on hard hits/bottoming out - like if I'm offroad and going a little too fast and hit a dip. But that's probably from 35s hitting the top of the fender well. That's mainly a problem I can sort out with bumpstops, which are next on my to do list. Other than that, no issues.

If you want to see more people running -38, it's a pretty common size in Australia. Look around in this FB group:

Facebook

www.facebook.com

 

[JoeCova]

ET -12 keeps factory backspacing without pushing too far out. And the 295 should work fine with a 2.5” lift

Can also mess with this.

Alloy Wheel & Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit

Alloy Wheel & tyre fitment calculator - it calculates inset, poke, speedo error, tyre stretch and loads more.

www.willtheyfit.com

 

[Marvelicious]

17x9 et-12 is a great fitment in my opinion. This is my setup:
KMC Mesa beadlocks 17x9 et-12, Toyo MT 35x12.5r17

View attachment 4020479
It's flush with the fenders and gives a nice stance without poking too far out.

View attachment 4020480

View attachment 4020481

-38 can look really good too, but I think -12 is a nice middle ground that gives you a nice stance and doesn't fling as much mud/rocks on your paint.

The only contact I've had with the fenders is on hard hits/bottoming out - like if I'm offroad and going a little too fast and hit a dip. But that's probably from 35s hitting the top of the fender well. That's mainly a problem I can sort out with bumpstops, which are next on my to do list. Other than that, no issues.

If you want to see more people running -38, it's a pretty common size in Australia. Look around in this FB group:

Facebook

www.facebook.com

Do they count their offset including the beadlock? On my Visions with 0 offset, they make a non-beadlock version of the same wheel, and I'm reasonably sure the beadlock 0 offset is identical to the standard 0 offset... Once you take that tire and move it to the outside face of the wheel, it effectively becomes something like ET-10 (guesstimate, not a measurement).

With that setup, my 315s will rub on the inside of the wheel well, but don't come anywhere close to hitting the outer fender. I'm de-flared, so they stick out a touch and would probably hit metal if I managed to bottom out baja style, rather than on articulation. That would take a HELL of a hit though.

 

[ikarus]

Do they count their offset including the beadlock? On my Visions with 0 offset, they make a non-beadlock version of the same wheel, and I'm reasonably sure the beadlock 0 offset is identical to the standard 0 offset... Once you take that tire and move it to the outside face of the wheel, it effectively becomes something like ET-10 (guesstimate, not a measurement).

With that setup, my 315s will rub on the inside of the wheel well, but don't come anywhere close to hitting the outer fender. I'm de-flared, so they stick out a touch and would probably hit metal if I managed to bottom out baja style, rather than on articulation. That would take a HELL of a hit though.

Yeah I believe the offset counts the beadlock ring, they don't have a non-beadlock version of this wheel and you there's no way to run them without the rings.

I have plenty of room on the inside and I've thought about going without flares - it would stick out a couple inches:

 

[readheadhunter]

Yeah I believe the offset counts the beadlock ring, they don't have a non-beadlock version of this wheel and you there's no way to run them without the rings.

View attachment 4020926

View attachment 4020927

I have plenty of room on the inside and I've thought about going without flares - it would stick out a couple inches:

View attachment 4020928

Ikarus your rig looks amazing! And thanks for sharing your wheels. I now realize that I do not have to import the dirtylife wheels for 2.500 USD, pay additional 900 USD shipping and not to mention taxes minimum of 600-800 USD.

I could buy the ones you have much more easily here in Germany - KMC are looking great!!!

But how did you get rid of the KMC logo inside the wheel? I even found one on sale,
Unfortunately with wrong ET -38.

Because beadlocks are illegal on Public roads here I guess they are very rare.

Thanks for sharing

 

[ikarus]

Ikarus your rig looks amazing! And thanks for sharing your wheels. I now realize that I do not have to import the dirtylife wheels for 2.500 USD, pay additional 900 USD shipping and not to mention taxes minimum of 600-800 USD.

I could buy the ones you have much more easily here in Germany - KMC are looking great!!!

View attachment 4021082


But how did you get rid of the KMC logo inside the wheel? I even found one on sale,
Unfortunately with wrong ET -38.

Because beadlocks are illegal on Public roads here I guess they are very rare.

Thanks for sharing

The KMC logo is a center cap, probably removable. Mine actually didn't come with any center caps. these are the wheels I got:

MESA FORGED BEADLOCK

The KMC KM444 Forged Mesa Beadlock wheel is designed to withstand any terrain and outperform the elements. The Mesa Beadlock’s Raw Machined finish lends itself to the no nonsense nature of the wheel and instead showcases its performance defining capabilit

www.kmcwheels.com

They also have a non-beadlock version:

GRS

We build the KM549 GRS for truck and Jeep enthusiasts seeking off-road style with robust strength for the street and trails. Based on our popular KM235 beadlock wheel, the GRS boasts a simulated beadlock ring and classic ...

www.kmcwheels.com

another really cool option you have in Europe is Evo Corse. They're in Italy. I wanted to get these but they were out of my budget:

Dakar BL Forged 9x17" - EvoCorse

Ruota in lega Dakar BL Forged 9x17", ET -10, PCD 6x139.7, CB 106.1 - Bianco

shop.evocorse.com

 

[readheadhunter]

Oh yeah wow shame on me. I live evocorse it’s our European powerhouse for high quality Offroad wheels and more.

The problem: the look with the evo is not as brutal as with yours. They looks amazing. Given the price difference the win on every aspect.

I asked the Italians if at some time they are also producing a fully machined one. Here we say: questions do cost nothing.

But see the huge difference yourself

 

[readheadhunter]

Coming back to this thread regarding my current wheel.

I’m trying to identify the wheels on my 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80. I don’t know if they’re OEM or aftermarket, and I’m specifically wondering if they could be the original wheels with ET 0 (0 offset).

I’ve attached close-up photos of the cast/stamped markings on the inside. The markings I can read are:

• “PRIME 16x8”
• “7.5J
• DOT-T USA

Does anyone recognize these markings / the manufacturer, and can you confirm whether this could be an OEM 80-series wheel and if it’s actually ET0?

Would be amazing to double check. Because I want to get the EvoCorse DakarZero DakarZero 8x16" - EvoCorse - https://evocorse.com/en/product/dakarzero-8x16-se522005c/. I am wondering if I should get the ET0 or the ET-20 version.

Maybe the most secure version is to stick with the ET0 due to local car regulations here in Europe.

Thanks for double check with me!

 

[ppc]

I’m trying to identify the wheels on my 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80. I don’t know if they’re OEM or aftermarket, and I’m specifically wondering if they could be the original wheels with ET 0 (0 offset).

Those are OEM wheels that have been painted/coated.

 

[readheadhunter]

Those are OEM wheels that have been painted/coated.

Thank you very much!

 

[ikarus]

I like Evo Corse wheels a lot. I have a set of SuperZeros on my Tundra. I think -20 would look better but -0 is easy if you are worried about regulations.

I moved up to 17s on my 80 Series though because tire selection is better. Seems like less manufacturers are making 16" tires.

 

[readheadhunter]

Nice! IT LOOKS AMAZING! Especially with the black body color and I guess those are the anthracite colored wheels. For my white 80s would be amazing to have the wheels in silver. Lets see how that goes. Much thanks for sharing.

 

[Plamen]

@readheadhunter hi mate

This are mine EvoCorse-s which I bought this summer. They are just stunning!

I will be using them on my 1991 FJ80.

I highly recommend them. Also EvoCorse as a company are great and responsive to deal with.

 

[readheadhunter]

@readheadhunter hi mate

This are mine EvoCorse-s which I bought this summer. They are just stunning!

I will be using them on my 1991 FJ80.

I highly recommend them. Also EvoCorse as a company are great and responsive to deal with.

... indeed they look amazing. Please keep us posted when you have installed them. Can you say which tires you are going to put on?

I would have ordered already, but I have problems in deciding whether taking the 16" one (keeping my newish 285 BF Goodrich tires 285 tires) but have the downside that there is no official documents to get my regulation duties done. The 17" on the other hand I need new tires (i guess BF Goodrich MT KM3) which makes additional 1.400 EUR on top of the wheels. But the 17" have official documents to get the regulations done. You see pretty complicated things here on the other side.

 

[readheadhunter]

Those are OEM wheels that have been painted/coated.

Hi ppc, I am currently in the process of buying my wheels. Last open question is if the OEM wheels are ET12 or ET30 on my FZJ80 96. Would you mind coming back to this? Thank you in advance and best regards.

 

[Plamen]

But the 17" have official documents to get the regulations done. You see pretty complicated things here on the other side.

I know exactly what you are talking about - I am from Bulgaria

Regarding my tire choice - I am considering BFG KO3-s, Yokohama G015 or some not too aggressive Falken. I am using my FJ80 mainly for summer overlanding and that's why I am looking at AT-s. Regarding the size it will be 285/70/17

 

[readheadhunter]

I know exactly what you are talking about - I am from Bulgaria

Regarding my tire choice - I am considering BFG KO3-s, Yokohama G015 or some not too aggressive Falken. I am using my FJ80 mainly for summer overlanding and that's why I am looking at AT-s. Regarding the size it will be 285/70/17

Ha same here my man . On my OEM wheels I have already the BFG KO3s, which I like to stay on 16" size.

Thats the last puzzle to solve which ET my original OEM wheels have (ET12 or ET30) to buy the right EvoCorse Dakarzero 16". Cheers

 

[Plamen]

Based on the EvoCorse's website and DakarZero model you have basically two ET options: 0 or -20:

DakarZero - EvoCorse

evocorse.com

 

[readheadhunter]

Based on the EvoCorse's website and DakarZero model you have basically two ET options: 0 or -20:

DakarZero - EvoCorse

evocorse.com

Thank you! Based on that I have to know from which ET on OEM wheels I am coming from. If later the ET is too wide I get problems with local regulation.

So the OEM ET could be
A. ET0 (what i have measured)
B. ET12 (what my distributer tells me)
C. ET30 (what ChatGPT tells me for FZJ80 96)

Anyone want to win the million experience question?