72 fj40 won’t start, help please (only in USA one more week)

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Joined
May 17, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
6
Location
Australia
Hi all,

Currently visiting family in CO from Australia. My wife’s dad has a 72 fj40 which I’ve worked on intermittent since 2018.

In 2018 I got it running with minimal work after it sat for about 10 years. From memory I did filters and oils and fresh fuel and it ran, albeit fairly poorly. It was missing the key so I got a new key barrel and key and that sorted it.

In 2024 I replaced a heap of stuff (points, leads, spark plugs, rotor, fan belt, radiator hoses, fuel filter, condenser etc). I then couldn’t get it to start. Since it had been so long since a previous visit I had forgotten what I did last time. I also took the carby off and rebuilt it as I recalled when I did get it to run it ran poorly.

Fast forward to current date. Before I arrived I ordered a Pertronix 1665a kit and a pertronix coil (3ohm). I wanted to rule out the points as an issue. I emailed pertronix to ensure I got the right kit for my dizzy (pictured). With the pertronix kit I removed the ballast resistor per instructions.

I also got an inline spark plug tester and multimeter and changed the battery out, as the other one was from 2018. I also changed the battery terminal and negative ground lead.

I thought the pertronix would solve my issues, which I believe are electrical, but it didn’t. The only thing I’m not sure about with the pertronix is the magnet ring was super tight to put on, I’ve emailed support about this. Tight as in I couldn’t put it on by hand I had to tap it on with a a small hammer and soft wood. There was a small ground wite strap included in the kit which I’m unsure of where it’s supposed to go, was using this as a reference : Project FJ40 Cruiser: Ignition System Upgrade - https://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project/project-fj40-cruiser-ignition-system-upgrade-52510.html#

And they don’t have the strap hooked up at all. However this person had similar issues to me pertronix no spark and someone in there has the strap hooked up per page 4 🤷‍♂️


-I have checked for spark and am getting none. Have tried testing using the ground method and also the inline spark plug tester.
-I’ve checked for voltage at the ignition switch wire when the key is in run and I’m getting over 12.5V
-coil is testing at 3 ohm and is brand new.
-I’m getting good voltage at the starter motor positive.
-car will just crank but not fire, as no spark.
-have tried the old spark plug leads as well as the new. Plugs look new.
-fresh fuel.
-have tried old and new rotor, rotor cap looks ok.
-have tried using a jump vehicle too.

Can someone please advise a course of action for me to troubleshoot this? I usually only visit once a year or so and it would really suck not to get it running two years in a row. I haven’t tested the dizzy, unsure how to do that. Seems unlikely given it did work previously that that’s the issue but im willing to test it someone tells me how.

Photos attached. Fusible link does seem non existent but it did run like that in 2018.

I’d really appreciate it thank you.

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Last edited:
1st IMHO your battery wires are too skinny. That Pos terminal is a POS, and they don't last long - ok for a side of the road repair.

Can't help with electronic iggy. Sometimes new points have a protective coating on the contacts. drag a points file threw them or they will not conduct and allow the coil to charge/fire.

Scrape the aluminium contacts inside the cap - aluminium oxide is an insulator - brass contacts are way better. Clean the contact on the spark plug wires both ends and the holes in the cap.
 
1st IMHO your battery wires are too skinny. That Pos terminal is a POS, and they don't last long - ok for a side of the road repair.

Can't help with electronic iggy. Sometimes new points have a protective coating on the contacts. drag a points file threw them or they will not conduct and allow the coil to charge/fire.

Scrape the aluminium contacts inside the cap - aluminium oxide is an insulator - brass contacts are way better. Clean the contact on the spark plug wires both ends and the holes in the cap.
Thanks mate. I’ll get some thicker gauge battery wires. It did run previously though which has thrown me off. Any idea on the best gauge? Believe it or not the new leads and terminal are better than what was on it!

The pertronix has eliminated the points but I will try scraping the contacts on the cap. Might put the new leads back on.

Really appreciate your response!

IMG_3601.webp
 
I just put new 2/0 copper wires on. They have have cast on terminals. Much better cranking now. I used the old 2 gauge wire from the neg ground on the block over to the frame ground under the brake line t.

So I would pull the spark plugs and use the starter to whirl it over and make sure it makes oil pressure - that way you are sure the dizzy is seated deep enough.

Just because you bought new parts doesn't mean they are good - quality control isn't what it was.

I just use an cleaned up old spark plug in the wire laying on the engine to look for spark.
 
Today I have tried:
-removing and reinstalling pertronix and this time I added the ground strap in the distributor housing per instructions.
-whilst doing this I noticed that the centre top underside dissy cap pin was not retracting, it was stuck in the up position. I changed the dissy cap.
-I tested the coil to see if it was getting spark per another thread instructions. With a screwdriver in the centre coil lead off the coil and grounded near the block I was able to see spark when grounding the - side of the coil momentarily.
-I am still unable to see spark at the spark plugs when I ground them or use the inline tester.
-car still isn’t starting, just cranking.
 
Usually a coil will fire when the points open or what ever interrupts the circuit. Your plug wires look old - have you cleaned the connectors on both ends - and check them for continuity especially the coil to dizzy wire?
 
Usually a coil will fire when the points open or what ever interrupts the circuit. Your plug wires look old - have you cleaned the connectors on both ends - and check them for continuity especially the coil to dizzy wire?
I actually had new wires on it but removed them yesterday to see if they were the issue. I’ll try them again. I have also changed the old rotor/new.
 
I just tested the old ones, they were all about 6-10. Except for number 5 which tested as 0 on the internal wire but 5 right down the bottom (with the tip all the way in). I changed that one out.

The new ones all test much lower (3-5) but were bought new last year from Napa. The pertronix kit says to use carbon core wires but I honestly don’t know what mine are. For the purpose of spark I don’t think it matters.

The car still isn’t starting.
 
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