60 series PS into a RHD 45

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Vossie

#thecrazycruiserman
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Threads
60
Messages
1,496
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
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Hi all, so this is kind of a double post. just put this in my build thread, but wanted a separate thread for it as well just in case any one ever needs any of this info.

Power Steering
Ok, so here is the engine bay before start of work
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So, first thing that needed to happen was to cut out a section of the gusset of the shock tower. dont panic, this is standard procedure for 40's over here, lots of them have this and never seen one fail to date.
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Made up an extension peice that would extend the shaft of the PS box
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then made another cut out in the shock tower to accomodate the turning of the extension peice. this will be fixed, dont worry.
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bracket made to gusset shock tower
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and the new gusset welded in place. from every other rig i have seen with this same style of PS conversion, this is standard procedure, and non have been welded to this extent.
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Ok, onto the column. So first up, with a stock 45 non PS box, you dont have to worry about bushes or bearings for the bottom end of the column where it comes through the bulk head because its such a short distance to the box. with a PS conversion though, the 60 series PS box goes right to the front, needing a couple of UJ's and hence facilitating the need for some type of bottom end support for the column exiting the bulkhead.
The original idea was for a bearing, but this posed many problems; how to get it in, how to replace it, how to seat it, bla bla bla. It was at this point of head scratching that i noticed an old shackle pin bushing lieing on the workshop floor... hey, that looks like it will....
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IT FITS! nice easy fix, and best solution for future replacements too.
After the column comes out the bulkhead, it gets cut and turned so that it will fit nice and snug into the next peice of the column to which is welded a nice thick steel pipe.
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it gets pinned by a nice HT 8mm bolt and nut. another good fix for future dissassembly and maintainence.
and heres the finished column in the 45
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All the tie rods were pretty nackered...
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so replaced all of them.
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so, the bottom bar is the stock 45 steering arm that connects the two hubs. the next one up is the stock 45 arm with one new tie rod that goes into the 45 link arm. the last bar is a 60 series connector arm (sorry, not sure on what these technically are called) with new ball joint that hooks up to the 60 PS box.
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then it was just a case of cutting and mating the two connector arms together to meld 60 and 40 series.
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and this just bolted in like normal. awesome!
all i need to do now is mount the pump and get the pipes made up....

mounting the pump tomorrow and having the pipes made up on Wednesday.

for those interested in my build thread, just follow the link in my sig :D
 
This is exactly what I need, Keep going with the install, Im sure it will help more then jsut me!
 
This is exactly what I need, Keep going with the install, Im sure it will help more then jsut me!
glad I could help. will be carrying on with install today.
as a side note, also know that she drives well even with out the pump. its surprisingly easier than even the stock non PS box
 
This would be illegal in Australia, welding a steering coupling to a shaft which is high tensile steel without an engineer signing off on it and getting it re-heat treated again is not allowed. If you had a accident and this broke at the weld you would be hard pressed to prove that it did not cause the crash?

You have also welded the steering arm, which again is subject to the above rules.

I don't wish to intrude on your install but below in another way.

A 60 series power steering box can be installed without welding. All you need is 60 series arms, cut one end and re-thread the internal thread again and screw the tie-rod's back in. Bolt on 60 series knuckle arms. Buy a 80 series intermediate steering shaft with attached uni & rag joint.

See photo below

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You then cut the rag off the 40 series column shaft and add a spline & a bearing into the column.

IMG_1727a.webp


And this is what you end up with.

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You can use either 75 or 80 series uni joints.

This gives you a fully adjustable shaft (no welds) and a collapsible intermediate shaft for safety
 
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@watrob

that's the best way of doing it ive seen. unfortunately for me, that would have been the most costly method of doing it as well, and that's one thing I don't have at the moment. The guy who welded it all for me is also a specialist. I would trust one of his welds with my life any day of the week. hes just that good.:hillbilly:

also, I can understand the regs and laws you guys have over there, but we arnt bound by anything like that over here. ultimately, given the choice, of course I would go with your way, just because its the RIGHT way. but for those out there, and me, who are constrained by cash, and who know a welder with as much skill as the guy who welded mine up, then there is the 'cheap' way of doing it too, provided your not breaking any laws.:grinpimp:
 
@watrob

sorry, just seen something as well...

that 80mm long spline that would have to put on the column, here in Harare, that's a $1000 job right there. only one shop in the whole country who can do that, and they charge what they feel like.

so that would kinda sink doing it that way for me. its a shame, because I know the best way would be that way. safest too.
 
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