5 speed Auto problems, not going above 3rd gear! (1 Viewer)

Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
I hit an Ox with big horns, used here in Zim for pulling the Ox-cart. I hit on its left hind quarter after it ran into the road, travelling at about 60km/h (37mph) just off the farm in Dec 2019. The Ox was ok, just bruised and a few ticks got squashed. Insurance paid out 12k and I replaced the whole front end, fenders, bonnet, grill, headlights, radiator etc, I also upgraded to an Onca bumper. sliders and a snorkel. I am happy with the results and will post pics of the results. All this was done professionally by Spraytech bodyshop in Harare and due to Covid I was without my cruiser for just over a year. So in Feb I got it back, it had 506,000km on the clock, but because it sat for over a year we serviced it at the bodyshop, all except the gearbox.

My Hundy timing belt was done at 150k, 300k, 411k, and so I planned to do a major service and timing belt change at around 512k. from 506k to 512k the gearbox was acting up, and when i sent in my hundy for a full service, I mentioned that I wanted the autobox serviced, I suspected the oil was low, so I asked for the oil to be drained & the filter cleaned. The mechanic who is a friend did the timing belt, oil change both to the engine, and gearbox, cleaned the filter in the gearbox and checked all the diff oils, topped up, sorted a few problems, including cleaning the sunroof drain as I had a wet passenger foot well after every thunderstorm and heavy rain.

At 512,000 km I must say the engine has never ever given me any trouble and the 1HD-FTE is a beautiful thing. I replaced the turbo at 280k, after buying the cruiser at 250k, as it was smoking a little at the robots(traffic lights). I also upgraded the intercooler to something about 5 times bigger as I was told the wear and tear happens when towing a heavy load over 120km/h. I then upgraded the turbo insides for extra low end torque at 500k and made sure the turbo was still good. I replace the oil every 5,000km with mineral oil or every 10,000km with synthetic and I have read up on all the good and bad of both and I honestly liked every 10k because it was simple, every time the clock climbed up 10k km I would make sure all the filters, oil, fuel & air were changed along with the engine oil. I recently added a Unichip with my upgraded turbo, and it smokes a little so I am thinking of getting my computer remapped to the UK spec Amazon 100 series as that has an extra 19% power. But i have the unichip installed and it saves fuel and adds power so I was happy.... I also extended my diff breather pipes to the top of the engine bay as I now have the snorkel...

The mechanic said there was only about 1 liter of oil that was clean with no smell that came outa the gearbox... that worried me slightly but it worked so I didnt worry, it was pulling off alot better then before the service, Untill just 600km after my timing belt change and gear service I was about 2km from the farm and I lost all power... the gearbox just stopped pulling. Nothing wrong with the engine... Just the gearbox felt like it went into Neutral but the light was in Drive. Its a 2007 so the 5 speed. I switched off the engine and waitied a minute and then when i switched back on I was able to go 1 km down the road slowly and then again it felt like it went into Neutral. Again I switched off and waitied a minute and switched back on and went another km down the road until I got to work.

I then was told to check oil, I checked the wrong side, added 3.5 liters and still it didnt pull (by then the extra liter he put plus my 3.5 made 4.5 liters too much) so I towed it back to him, engine running, vehicle in Drive but feeling like it was in Neutral. He emptied out the oil and checked the filter O ring was ok (not broken or sucking air) and refilled with new oil but it would not go over 3rd gear. I was worried it was the clutches so I took it to a gearbox specialist and he pulled the sump off, and removed the valve body and looked at the clutches from underneath, they are good, all the o rings on the solenoids on the valve body were replaced, and again new genuine oil was put in but it still only goes to 3rd gear... He said its either a wiring or computer problem... I need help here on where to look, I need my Hundy back!
 
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Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
I suspected a few issues, the cooler pipes were blocked so I checked those, the radiator was blocked so i checked that, the Filter O ring was broken, so I checked that, the clutches were gone, so I checked that, the solenoid O rings were gone, so I checked that (I mean I had the mechanics and specialists do the checking). whats left now is the wiring and the computer box, maybe the rain into the passenger well has affected something and as a result there is a problem going into 4th & 5th gear. Any Ideas?
 
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Messages
15
Location
Europe
Exactly the same here last week on my 06 fte euro 4 spec. Installed a unichip and after a few days it wont go over 3rd gear. Hardwired and Removed the unichip and all went ok again.
It seems the ecu has a learning program to match the shifting points with your driving style.

Installed the unichip back in the car today to find out what causes the trouble and it was ok for a few runs. Then It wont go over 4th, even with a dead clean mapping filled with zeroes. Tried another unichip as well. Seems it only works well without chip. Spend the rest of the day to test the chip settings, boost control etc.

Im now in the same boat with a suspected dead transmission. It drives and shifts ok for a few 100 meters and then starts losing speed and feels like it is in neutral. Not even reverse gear will work.

I tried to alter the line pressure with the unichip as more torque is developed on a smaller pedal angle. It still doesnt seem be happy on 800nm of torque.
Those old 4 speed boxes can take up alot more abuse!
 
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Joined
Dec 11, 2018
Messages
248
Location
EU
The 5 speed auto HATES extra power with no supporting mods. The end result usually is dead 5th and often 4th too. The clutches go bust. The Unichip has to be configured to pull torque on gear shifts + the increased line pressure.
An upgraded valve body is required to make it work and even then you can't go near what the manual box can handle. The FTE can be pushed to 1200nm+ with manual, but the best with the 5 speed auto I have ever seen online was about 800nm done by Matt @ Gturbo after supporting mods.

I very much doubt there will be many people here that know much about the FTE or Unichip. This is a super well known combination in Australia and pretty much nothing outside.
You could try the Diesel section and catch some of the aussies there. Other than that it's the lcool forum (pretty much dead) and the Australian FB groups - Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1745801785659911 Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1hdfteconversions & Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/154276451369960
 
Joined
Dec 21, 2017
Messages
15
Location
Europe
Didnt program the shift pulls (yet) we run different ecus in europe on the 5 speed, along with vnt turbo and maf etc. They can make more power than the stock ct20.
This ecu reacts different on the unichip than previous models.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
Diesel
Exactly the same here last week on my 06 fte euro 4 spec. Installed a unichip and after a few days it wont go over 3rd gear. Hardwired and Removed the unichip and all went ok again.
It seems the ecu has a learning program to match the shifting points with your driving style.

Installed the unichip back in the car today to find out what causes the trouble and it was ok for a few runs. Then It wont go over 4th, even with a dead clean mapping filled with zeroes. Tried another unichip as well. Seems it only works well without chip. Spend the rest of the day to test the chip settings, boost control etc.

Im now in the same boat with a suspected dead transmission. It drives and shifts ok for a few 100 meters and then starts losing speed and feels like it is in neutral. Not even reverse gear will work.

I tried to alter the line pressure with the unichip as more torque is developed on a smaller pedal angle. It still doesnt seem be happy on 800nm of torque.
Those old 4 speed boxes can take up alot more abuse!
I had the Unichip bypassed, using a plug that comes with the unichip as i was worried that was the cause... It didnt make a difference... do i need to remove the whole Unichip completely from the vehicle?
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
The 5 speed auto HATES extra power with no supporting mods. The end result usually is dead 5th and often 4th too. The clutches go bust. The Unichip has to be configured to pull torque on gear shifts + the increased line pressure.
An upgraded valve body is required to make it work and even then you can't go near what the manual box can handle. The FTE can be pushed to 1200nm+ with manual, but the best with the 5 speed auto I have ever seen online was about 800nm done by Matt @ Gturbo after supporting mods.

I very much doubt there will be many people here that know much about the FTE or Unichip. This is a super well known combination in Australia and pretty much nothing outside.
You could try the Diesel section and catch some of the aussies there. Other than that it's the lcool forum (pretty much dead) and the Australian FB groups - Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1745801785659911 Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1hdfteconversions & Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/154276451369960
Hi Moridinbg, I upgraded the turbine in my turbo, and had the local installer then put in a chip, its been running for about 20k km no issues, I was 460nm before turbine upgrade and Unichip... I only expected a 20% increase in efficiency and torque, so I dont think i am anywhere near the 800nm mark... but i havent Dyno tested yet either
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
I replaced the computer box, same problem. I replaced the speed sensors, same problem. I replaced the TPS sensor, same problem. I replaced the accelerator, same problem. I replaced the wiring inside the gearbox with the 2 funny sensors, and checked continuity on the wires from the gearbox to the computer box, same problem.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
When the computer box is unplugged from the gearbox, and the vehicle tested, it works in 1st, 3rd & 4th gear by manually selecting those gears. When the computer box is plugged back in then it works upto 3rd gear only and does not go into 4th or 5th gears....
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
The 5 speed auto HATES extra power with no supporting mods. The end result usually is dead 5th and often 4th too. The clutches go bust. The Unichip has to be configured to pull torque on gear shifts + the increased line pressure.
An upgraded valve body is required to make it work and even then you can't go near what the manual box can handle. The FTE can be pushed to 1200nm+ with manual, but the best with the 5 speed auto I have ever seen online was about 800nm done by Matt @ Gturbo after supporting mods.

I very much doubt there will be many people here that know much about the FTE or Unichip. This is a super well known combination in Australia and pretty much nothing outside.
You could try the Diesel section and catch some of the aussies there. Other than that it's the lcool forum (pretty much dead) and the Australian FB groups - Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1745801785659911 Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/1hdfteconversions & Facebook Groups - https://www.facebook.com/groups/154276451369960
ok i checked aussie and feedback there was to try replace the cluster as a speed sensor on the cluster there might be faulty, i did that... no joy... Also for all here on Mud, the 5 speed diesel auto is the same as a 5 spd V8 petrol auto box... all we do is drill a hole and tap a thread in the petrol to make it match one of the fittings a diesel box has...
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
last and most expensive option is to replace the gearbox, so I have bought one from a rolled V8, complete with the transfer case and the shifter... there is nothing else to try... even my Unichip has been bypassed... If that has to be removed altogether to make the box work then thats gonna happen after we change the box
 

Diplodocus

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 10, 2010
Messages
30
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Government Housing
Wow Shane, what a nightmare. I hope the new box sorts it for good. I suggest a triumphant Ngoma Kurira beacon picture when it's sorted to celebrate your truck's return to the world of the driven.
 
Joined
Dec 11, 2018
Messages
248
Location
EU
I still stand by my opinion of a broken box with dead clutch plates for 4th and 5th.
 
Joined
Sep 6, 2012
Messages
165
Location
Harare, Zimbabwe
ok here is an update for everyone reading.... so the 100 series 4 speed Diesel auto and Petrol V8 auto box is the same, there is 1 place to drill and tap when using a petrol box on a diesel vehicle.... however the V8 5speed auto is different to the 1HD-FTE 5 speed auto and simply will not fit and work... so the gearbox i bought to replace my diesel box was from a petrol v8 5 speed that rolled.. and it will not work!

I gave my "bad auto box" to a friend to try in his 5 speed 2005 diesel cruiser and he tells me it works just fine... so Moridinbg i also thought it may be a bad valve body... so just like my mechanic said, everything was checked, and it works, just not on my vehicle.... go figure... 1 last thing to try... thats the shifter...

I have a great mechanic working on my vehicle and he is busy rebuilding a 6x6 cruiser and is happy to swap his diesel box for my petrol box... so all is not lost, a wrong box bought, my box sold, the wrong one swapped for the right one... hopefully in the end i get my cruiser back and it all works out
 

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