3D Print for Rear Step Plate Clip

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Aug 23, 2022
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I designed a 3D print for the clips that hold on the rear step plate by the door sills: (80 Series) Toyota Land Cruiser Rear Step Plate Clip by godfatherofpancakes | Download free STL model | Printables.com - https://www.printables.com/model/1049292-80-series-toyota-land-cruiser-rear-step-plate-clip

AFAIK the clips are NLA (at least for the color I need) so I decided to make my own. My design is improved over the original in a few ways:
  • This has threads built into the clip, which are a perfect match for the bolt it threads onto and is optimized for 3D printing. This will give you a far better bite on the bolt than the original. The originals do not have embedded threads but instead use the bolts threads to carve them out, so they're not very stout.
  • The threaded barrel is one piece, as opposed to the original which has 2 vertical cutouts and tabs, so there is more surface area for the threads to contact the bolt, meaning better bite.
  • The flathead slot on the top of the clip is shorter in height, so now when you put a flathead screwdriver on there, it won't chew up and mangle the slot like it does with the originals. The slot is also slightly deeper for better contact with a flathead.
NOTE: if you decide to edit this in CAD, you might need to edit the ThreadData file in the library to support the odd thread sizing. This was the case with Fusion360, not sure if other CAD SW supports this thread size.

Hopefully someone finds this useful.

Screenshot 2024-10-23 at 2.48.54 PM.webp
Screenshot 2024-10-23 at 2.48.44 PM.webp
tempImageI6Tg4R.webp
 
I designed a 3D print for the clips that hold on the rear step plate by the door sills: (80 Series) Toyota Land Cruiser Rear Step Plate Clip by godfatherofpancakes | Download free STL model | Printables.com - https://www.printables.com/model/1049292-80-series-toyota-land-cruiser-rear-step-plate-clip

AFAIK the clips are NLA (at least for the color I need) so I decided to make my own. My design is improved over the original in a few ways:
  • This has threads built into the clip, which are a perfect match for the bolt it threads onto and is optimized for 3D printing. This will give you a far better bite on the bolt than the original. The originals do not have embedded threads but instead use the bolts threads to carve them out, so they're not very stout.
  • The threaded barrel is one piece, as opposed to the original which has 2 vertical cutouts and tabs, so there is more surface area for the threads to contact the bolt, meaning better bite.
  • The flathead slot on the top of the clip is shorter in height, so now when you put a flathead screwdriver on there, it won't chew up and mangle the slot like it does with the originals. The slot is also slightly deeper for better contact with a flathead.
NOTE: if you decide to edit this in CAD, you might need to edit the ThreadData file in the library to support the odd thread sizing. This was the case with Fusion360, not sure if other CAD SW supports this thread size.

Hopefully someone finds this useful.

View attachment 3756434View attachment 3756436View attachment 3756433


Have an stl or step file you can share?
 
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I don't know if those were the version I tried, but I printed some I got somewhere and immediately broke them, so I fired up FreeCAD and made my own.

Here's my version compared to the one posted above... Mine are the ones in black. I'm not sure how obvious it is, but I made a few changes. Some were just personal touches, some of which should make them more robust, especially considering 3d printing's big weakness: layer adhesion.

Step clips compared.webp

  • Mine are a touch shorter than the green version. They were long enough for me, and longer than the stockers, but I could upload a longer version if someone needs them. Shoot me a PM...
  • I increased the thickness of the head: they sit almost flush with the top of the tread, so they aren't sticking out.
  • I added a small fillet on where the head meets the body: it doesn't seem like much, and it only transitions over a few layers of the print, but it should make them a touch more resilient, spreading out any stresses.
  • I increased the diameter of the body to where they juuuuust fit in the hole. Just wanted a bit more plastic for a bit more strength.
  • Not visible from this angle, but I modified the slot so it has a deeper semi-circle bottom so that they screw in equally easily with a screwdriver or a coin. A nickel works about perfect.
Anyway, my version is attached. I printed them in PETG and they've been going strong for about a year.
 

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