3.4 Swap

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Joined
Mar 20, 2007
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102
Location
East Tennessee
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Has anyone done the 3.4 5VZFE swap into their mini truck? I have been looking at prices from junk yards arround me and I can pick one up for pretty cheap. What will I all need to do this swap? I was told the motor mounts are the same but I need a wiring harness adaptor?
 
Yup. www.offroadsolutions.com is the best source for info... and parts.
If you have a 3.0, easy. Motor mounts are the same, trannies bolt up, radiator is done, need to move the battery. You will need a wiring harness, or will need to adapt the 3.4 engine harness to the 3.0 body harness. It's been done, and well, but you need to be very comfortable with wiring and schematics.

You also need a crossover to take the exhaust down the driver's side. Everything else you need is detailed at ORS.

Mine started as a 22RE/W56. Much harder. Pleased with the results though!
 
Mine is the same yours was chili What did you have to all go through? did you use and auto trany or manual? All the information you have would be amazing. I am looking to do it for $3000 is that possible?
 
Not very likely. Obviously you will need to do it all yourself to hold costs to something like that.

Everything I did is pretty much detailed on the ORS site. The drivetrain had to be moved forward 3" to put the 3.4 in a good location in the engine bay. I used an R151 that I had previously rebuilt, along with a Marlin Dual Ultimate setup. I moved my battery to the back, where the spare used to be, and created a dual yellowtop setup isolated via solenoid. The ORS crossover pipe is a sweet solution to switching sides for the exhaust, and is worth it. Some have hand-done the wiring harness (mating the 3.4 engine harness to the 22RE body harness) but I used an ORS harness (there were still a couple minor issues which Mike graciously and rapidly resolved). I fabricated a shift tunnel using 16 ga, and fitted a Tuffy Samurai locking console. My shifter is a bit, um, 'snakey', as it has to reach under the radio to mate with the tranny. I also had already changed to a three-row 89-95 V6 radiator. I stayed with the iron manifolds because headers add enormous pain to switching the exhaust to the driver's side. The intake is fabbed using exhaust tubing and various needed fittings, and is capped by a K&N filter (which I would only run with an oiled foam pre-filter). Mike fabbed that.

Fabbing and precisely locating the motor mounts is painstaking and requires test install and removal of the motor/tranny several times to get it right. Once Mike located the motor in the bay, and re-used my FRORF crossmember (which adapts to relocated drivetrains very easily) it went fast enough.
 
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