- Thread starter
- #41
All the ancillary bits bolted on now, injectors in. New glow plugs in (another learning point), and she is ready to go back in!
2h ring failure, causes?
- Thread starter Frosty2086
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Lastly we had to winch her into the garage with a endless chain, a process that has become all to familar over the last 12 months of owning the troopy. My girlfriends dad came along to help get the engine back in. We set the timing before the engine went in using a glass full of diesel, we primed the system and it worked a treat, made the whole timing adjustment so easy!
Any then finally it went back in the car. A note to any one doing this, take the mounts off the chassis rails, and loosely bolt them to the engine brackets. Would have been 1000 times easier than what we did....
Any then finally it went back in the car. A note to any one doing this, take the mounts off the chassis rails, and loosely bolt them to the engine brackets. Would have been 1000 times easier than what we did....
Good work,engine looks great in its blue paint.
- Thread starter
- #44
Everything bolted up in the engine bay easily enough, and then the real fun began....
Firstly priming the oil pump. This seems to be a regular issue with these machines from what i have read. I stupidly did not pu any vasoline etc. in the oil pump. However i found a solution that worked brilliantly. My first try was to put a suction line in the oil relief valve on the oil pump, to no luck. Secondly i got my diff oil refill pump (a 500ml oil syringe effectively) and ran masking tape around the tube on it so it would jame and seal in the oil relief valve hole. I then pumped 1L of oil back into the pump, popped the relief valve and spring back in and cranked it over with the glow plugs out. Had pressure in around about 3 cranks...
This was not the end of the issues...when i first went to start her, un known to me the glow plug rail was shorting on the heater line, see middle picture. This fried my power box in the engine bay...
It took my 3 nights to track the issue down...but i got their, luckily i had a spare power box off an old HZ wiring loom (they are identical bar the plug) so a bit of soldering and she was away first crank! Has not missed a beat since!
The engine runs beautifully when warm, makes a bit of a rattle when cold, im tempted to take it in to someone to have overnight just to have a listen to see if its an issue in their eyes as i am not experienced enough to pic these things! Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!
Cheers for all the help, no doubt i will have more questions in the future! I will put some pics up of my gauge installation when i get round to it, which wnt be for a whle as i am off to the antarctic for work for the next 2 and a half months....
Cheers
Frost
Firstly priming the oil pump. This seems to be a regular issue with these machines from what i have read. I stupidly did not pu any vasoline etc. in the oil pump. However i found a solution that worked brilliantly. My first try was to put a suction line in the oil relief valve on the oil pump, to no luck. Secondly i got my diff oil refill pump (a 500ml oil syringe effectively) and ran masking tape around the tube on it so it would jame and seal in the oil relief valve hole. I then pumped 1L of oil back into the pump, popped the relief valve and spring back in and cranked it over with the glow plugs out. Had pressure in around about 3 cranks...
This was not the end of the issues...when i first went to start her, un known to me the glow plug rail was shorting on the heater line, see middle picture. This fried my power box in the engine bay...
It took my 3 nights to track the issue down...but i got their, luckily i had a spare power box off an old HZ wiring loom (they are identical bar the plug) so a bit of soldering and she was away first crank! Has not missed a beat since!
The engine runs beautifully when warm, makes a bit of a rattle when cold, im tempted to take it in to someone to have overnight just to have a listen to see if its an issue in their eyes as i am not experienced enough to pic these things! Any thoughts on this would be appreciated!
Cheers for all the help, no doubt i will have more questions in the future! I will put some pics up of my gauge installation when i get round to it, which wnt be for a whle as i am off to the antarctic for work for the next 2 and a half months....
Cheers
Frost
- Thread starter
- #45
Thanks rosco, was a bit darker than i thought but im happy in the end, more worried about a good engine than a shiny engine!
Ah i forgot...the last thing cost...
For those interested..
The machining (Bore/Hone/Deck/Acid Dip block, rebuild head, inc. valves/precombustion chambers etc etc, bead blast manifold and oil cooler, polish crank, deck pistons, new camshaft) all came to $1,300
Parts (pistons, rings, gaskets, rocker arms (12), lifters, relief valves etc.) came to $1250
New radiator - $430
Hoses filters, thermostat, temp sender and new gauges - $350
Fuel pump check and re-calibrate - $500
Injector service - $100 (They were only 5000km old)
Gives me $3,930AUD in reality probably more like $4,000 as i probably fogot some other items in their!
Cheers
Ah i forgot...the last thing cost...
For those interested..
The machining (Bore/Hone/Deck/Acid Dip block, rebuild head, inc. valves/precombustion chambers etc etc, bead blast manifold and oil cooler, polish crank, deck pistons, new camshaft) all came to $1,300
Parts (pistons, rings, gaskets, rocker arms (12), lifters, relief valves etc.) came to $1250
New radiator - $430
Hoses filters, thermostat, temp sender and new gauges - $350
Fuel pump check and re-calibrate - $500
Injector service - $100 (They were only 5000km old)
Gives me $3,930AUD in reality probably more like $4,000 as i probably fogot some other items in their!
Cheers
Not a bad price really. I think they cost about $3000 exchange and then is still a lot of work swapping the peripherals over and all the extras like radiator ,hoses.
In any case you know this has been done right and its good for another 400000klms.
I wouldnt be too concerned about the cold start rattle,all my diesels have done that.
In any case you know this has been done right and its good for another 400000klms.
I wouldnt be too concerned about the cold start rattle,all my diesels have done that.
I think that blue is close to the original,on my screen anyway
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
Thanks for all the info, very nice to read and great pictures of your engine.
Hi guys, I'm new here and wondering how can i pull the camshaft's timing gear and the front of the injection pump. I bought a 14 and a 22 bolt (metric fine) but there don't fit. Maybe i just need a 12 (cam gear) and 20 (injection pump)?
Any othere suggestions - 2 or 3 arm pullers don't seem to do it, or should i try just a bit harder?
thanks guys
Any othere suggestions - 2 or 3 arm pullers don't seem to do it, or should i try just a bit harder?
thanks guys
