2F Reassembly Questions

[Pinion]

Im going to be putting my 2F back together and have a few questions.

Connecting rod bolts: Should I use the blue loctite? The threads are supposed to be free of oils and whatnot, right? Is it ok, will it still work if there was oil in the threads? There was a small chip in one of the connecting rod bearings by the hole, but it was still smooth and there was no marking on the crank from it.


Head Bolts: Do I use loctite? Also, I feel as if there was galling of the threads. When I took out the head bolts, a lot of them had what appeared to be a lot of loctite at the bottom. You know how when you take a bolt that has been loctited out and you can see the threads? I couldnt see where the mating threads were on the head bolt from the block. Am I screwed? I chased every thread in the block, and no metal came from the head holes. When I cleaned the head bolts, there was no metal in the bucket.

As far as everything else, the engine is tip top and Im looking to get'r put back together.

The head: Should I take it apart? Mill it? I have some valve guides left over from an older kit from my 87 FJ60. Would they be the same parts used in the head of a 79 FJ40? It smoked a little on startup, but all of the cylinders were all in good shape and all still had cross hatching. Im guessing the head had not been rebuilt. The valves look ok, but I guess I should pop them off and give 'em all a good soak.

Anyone have a quality place that sells the engine gasket kit?

Thanks!

 

[ranger]

I never have used locktite on connecting rod bolts or head bolts. Just torque to proper specs.....Don't resuse main or connecting rod bearings!
I would take the head in and have it gone through...that way there is no doubt.

 

[Pinion]

I think I will just need the SST to get the valve springs compressed.

Im def. not going to touch the main bearings. They are there, and gonna stay. I dont know how to shim up a new set of rod bearings though..

 

[crawlin60]

I dunno about the Loctite, either blue or red on rod bolts. But head bolts, per FSM are to be coated in engine oil, then torqued in sequence to torque window. After first warmup, retorque again to spec.

 

[Lusedekache]

Yeah, I wouldn't use any Locktite either.
I don't think you need the SST, any quality generic-style spring compressor would work.
As far as re-working the head, my advice would be to just leave it alone unless you're planning on regrinding the valves and seats. If you're not having problems with the valves I would say they are best left alone. I would definatly suggest a resurfacing though.
Did you take the crank out? If so, I would heartily recommend that you replace the main bearings. Even if you didn't it's not too big of a job to take the crank out, get it polished, and throw some new bearings in. It's one less thing you have to worry about later.
Lots of places have gasket sets; SOR, MAF, CCOT. The Toyo dealer probably has one too, I've never checked though.
With your rod bearings, just clean up the seat areas really well and put them in by setting the bearing across the seat and pushing down in the middle. You can also tap them in GENTLY on the sides with a small rubber mallet. Be sure to slobber the outer faces up with assembly lube before placing them back on the crank.