2F only running on full choke

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zetasig

zetasig

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Well, I finally got the cruiser running!!!. My next question of many is that now it only runs fully choked out. I ran if for about 20 mins, got the engine good and warm and when ever I open the choke a bit it dies out.

What would you guys suggest? I have the idle mixture scew out 1.5 turns as per the haynes manual. and I went through the carb last week. I have not messed with any of the idle screws except for the idle misture. It has been desmogged so I have a few open vacume lines. its a 75 2F with the OEM carb.
Thanks again.

Warren.
 
close all open vacumn lines, bolts work good, double and triple check to make sure no vacumn leaks anywhere. then try it again.

one open vacumn line can cause to lean a mixture, hence the choking all the time, then dies when you open.

only other thing is lack of fuel.
 
sounds good. I will do that, about the venturi line. (on the top of the carb opening) block that off too?

Anything specific about the throttle positioner?

Anything need to hook up to the intake manifold line. I have a good strong suction off that.

Thanks again.

all this really helps.
 
As previously mentioned check out your fuel cutoff solenoid. Make sure it is getting power and ground. Check to see if it clicks when powered up. As for your vacuum stuff I think there is some info in the tech links that would help.
 
Zeta,
This is just a suggestion, but why don't you find a '74 carb to run on it. I run a '74 non smog carb on a 2F intake and it runs great. The desmogged '75> carbs will never run right due to smog operated stuff internally in the carb that lose their function WO smog stuff attached. Like the power valve.
The pre '75 carbs are easily rebuilt by you.
PinHead is well versed on this, as is Jim Chenoweth. I'm sure JimC can make it work desmogged, but...time and $$ are not insignificant.
GL
Ed :)
 
I am almost positive the fuel cut off is working, I do and can hear a click with the key on and off. I know it has proper power as it is tied in with the ignitor.

As for the carb, I would like to do that 74 era. alas $$, Jim C is 45 mins from me and he said he wouldnt mind taking a peek at it the next time I am out there.

I will plug up those vacuum holes tonight and report back.

Anyone happen to have the linkage for the gas pedal they want to part with. Need everything from the carb to the cable. I have the pedal itself already.

Thanks again.
Keep the suggestions coming.
 
If your fuel solenoid is working, have you checked fuel filters, including the screen in the fuel inlet? Mine did that and I had just run some fuel system cleaner through it and it knocked a bunch of stuff loose that plugged the "emulsion" tubes. If you're that close to Jim C, check all the filters and the output on the fuelpump the drive'r lean to Jim C.
BTW, you can usually pick up a '74 for $50 or less, put a $20 kit in it and be good to go. I just sold 2 @$85. Maybe Jim C has one lying around. Jim C was very helpful to me when I was futzing with mine. Just wish he was closer.
GL
Ed
 
maybe look for a crack in the intake manifold under the carb, connection to the exhaust. I had to have mine welded and put a stainless steel sheet to replace the stock metal thingamijig.

Took me about a month to figure it out.
 
I plugged up all the lines from the carb and it runs a bit better I am able to let off some choke and it still keeps an idle.

I have a very large tube diameter of a nickle, coming from the carb spacer. Just curious is that were the other end of the PCV hose goes? Gosh thats a newbie question. haynes is not too good with a photo where I need one. I can shoot a pic and post it tomorrow.

The engine seemed to run the best when I had my finger over it.

I took the valve cover back off to seal it properly and drained the coolant I had in the radiator as I had a few pin holes. Probably wont be running again until this weekend.

Warren.
 
I need to get a new valve but will hook that up property.

Ah the pain. I still need to get the brakes working, Gas pedal Linkage. Seats. Windsheild, and sort out the wiring.


Thanks again.
 
Haha, that's a funny picture, sorry. Bigass old vacuum leak there. Yes, very much that is you PVC hose connection. You can plug it with a big bolt temporarily. That's what I did with mine for a year until I got a sidecover that accepted the PCV valve back on.
 
Well just to double check and make sure. I got the new PCV valve. Then end that goes in the engine is larger and the upper portion is smaller in diameter. I have a tube on the carb spacer. AND a Tube with a portion of hose still connected down under the intake manifold?? This is a de smogged 2F. Just want to make sure the other end of the PCV goes closer to the carb than under the intake.

Also Why would there be a need for two different size hoses. The PCV is much smaller than the other holes.

Thanks.
 
Warren,
The new PCV valve goes in the rubber grommet on the lifter cover, located on the passenger side of the engine, toward the rear. On the 75-78 2F intake manifold, the pcv hose is routed from the pcv valve (small end) over the engine to a 90 deg elbow that is threaded into the side of the intake manifold, below the carb.

The large metal pipe that is coming out of a phenolic spacer is the EGR inlet into the side of the carb. Just cap that off.

Stop by when you can and I can point this stuff out on a junk engine.

[quote author=Zetasig link=board=1;threadid=15023;start=msg143362#msg143362 date=1082638304]
Well just to double check and make sure. I got the new PCV valve. Then end that goes in the engine is larger and the upper portion is smaller in diameter. I have a tube on the carb spacer. AND a Tube with a portion of hose still connected down under the intake manifold?? This is a de smogged 2F. Just want to make sure the other end of the PCV goes closer to the carb than under the intake.

Also Why would there be a need for two different size hoses. The PCV is much smaller than the other holes.
[/quote]
 
Update from this weekend, The slow turning over part from my last post, turned out to be a bad starter. So there is such a thing as a dying starter. I got the garage sale remaned one from MAF. and put it in. Damn thing flys when turning over now!!!! Turns over better than my 97 4runner. Also got the PCV valve installed correctly.
Anyway, I am able now to start the cruiser with out the help of starting fluid. I have blocked / plugged every vacuum line not needed as the motor is de smogged.
The motor only wants to run at about 1/2 choke though. any more open and it starts to die out. any suggestions?
Also I noticed, I put a new inline fuse from the battery going back to the alt meter the wire is White/Blue. When the engine was running the fuse holder got almost too hot to touch. is this normal or a bad sign. its a 30 amp fuse as thats what I had. When the truck was running the alt meter was almost pegged to +30? again normal or bad.

Thanks guys.

Warren.
 
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