Hey all - I bought a camburg steering clevis kit for my 2012 fjc. Turns out the M22x1.5 is too small for 2010 - 2014. Anyone know of a quality adapter, or a M24x1.5 clevis kit? I believe the M24x1.5 is correct. Not the easiest part to find measurements on.
2010 inner tie rod bolt size? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Smaddox
- Start date
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Help me understand your application.
Are you building a desert racer?
Is this because you have long travel uppers and lowers, and need aftermarket tie rods?
If everything is stock geometry, I don't understand the point of making your tie rods THAT much stronger?
Are you building a desert racer?
Is this because you have long travel uppers and lowers, and need aftermarket tie rods?
If everything is stock geometry, I don't understand the point of making your tie rods THAT much stronger?
- Thread starter
- #3
I've made a few changes that have made an impact on steering response. While I don't believe anything has been changed enough to need the upgrade, initially I did not realize it was going to turn into this large of a project. Now I'm far enough down the path that it's going to be more work to return the other parts.. I hate returning online purchases
To what has been done recently. 35x12.5 r16 (older FJ80 alloy wheels), 1.5 spidertrax wheel spacers (to fit the 16 wheels), SPC adjustable uca's (to correct alignment issues from the 35's).
Really I think the 35s simply accelerated the wear on ball joints that had over 100k miles on them. Not a lot of after market options for steering. And yes, eventually I am hoping to add long travel up front. The end goal is light off-road racing and moderate trails.
Before anyone feels the overwhelming desire to point out all of this could have been avoided by staying with 33s.. I say practical is over rated!
To what has been done recently. 35x12.5 r16 (older FJ80 alloy wheels), 1.5 spidertrax wheel spacers (to fit the 16 wheels), SPC adjustable uca's (to correct alignment issues from the 35's).
Really I think the 35s simply accelerated the wear on ball joints that had over 100k miles on them. Not a lot of after market options for steering. And yes, eventually I am hoping to add long travel up front. The end goal is light off-road racing and moderate trails.
Before anyone feels the overwhelming desire to point out all of this could have been avoided by staying with 33s.. I say practical is over rated!
I've been running 315/75/16 for around 7 years on FJ80 alloys as well (but mine are not TEQ, some knock-offs that don't need the spacers). I go through inner tie rods every 18 months. I've been through 2 steering racks since the tire upsize as well. I just finished installing the latest rack 2 weeks ago.
I'm starting to think...how can I get a Tundra steering rack under this thing
I'm starting to think...how can I get a Tundra steering rack under this thing
- Thread starter
- #5
2010+ supposedly had the steering rack upgraded. It's been tough for me to find specific details on it. Have you tried seeing if they're bolt-on?
My initial thought was to upgrade to Tundra inner tie rods & tie rod ends. But I couldn't find bolt size and thread size of the two to see if it was do-able.
How are you liking the swaybar removal? I was thinking of pulling mine to see if it made a difference. Was not as trivial a thing to do as I would have thought..
My initial thought was to upgrade to Tundra inner tie rods & tie rod ends. But I couldn't find bolt size and thread size of the two to see if it was do-able.
How are you liking the swaybar removal? I was thinking of pulling mine to see if it made a difference. Was not as trivial a thing to do as I would have thought..
The new rack I got this time has a superseded part number, but the tie rods are identical. However, I replaced the last one sometime between now and 2010, so not sure if that means that now all year models are showing that this is the current part number or if there really is something new. The parts guy I ordered from said a new part number could mean something as trivial as a different supplier/mfr with no real difference in performance or strength.
I'm used to no sway bar, as I removed it back in 2008 or so. I have considered putting it back on when I redo my spindles this winter. I like the way the truck stays more level in slow moving, off camber situations on the trail. When it is connected, the body rolls more with the terrain - which is fine on the road, but not so much on trails/obstacles.
I'm used to no sway bar, as I removed it back in 2008 or so. I have considered putting it back on when I redo my spindles this winter. I like the way the truck stays more level in slow moving, off camber situations on the trail. When it is connected, the body rolls more with the terrain - which is fine on the road, but not so much on trails/obstacles.
- Thread starter
- #7
I can confirm w/o a doubt that 2012 has a larger mounting point on the steering rack for the inner tie rod. Everything I can see online indicates the change happened 2010. Oddly it seems the only time I read any mention of it is when someone is doing the heim joint conversion. It makes sense when you look at ordering and all the manufacturers list 2007 - 2009 as a different part. I would also say when I'm looking for different parts in general they are less available for 2010+, not just engine related parts (could mean a lot of things).
We need to find someone with a 2007 - 2009 AND a 2010 - 2014 to take their steering apart just to confirm this
We need to find someone with a 2007 - 2009 AND a 2010 - 2014 to take their steering apart just to confirm this
OK, on that 1st point you may be right, but I can't confirm yet. The new rack comes with inners already attached and I did not remove them during the installation (though it would have made the job much easier). So I have no idea what size the inner threaded part is. That would suck if I bent one on the trail and my trail spares wouldn't fit. I have someone I can talk to that may be able to shed more light on this. I will report back when I suss it out.
New and old next to each other. The old outer tie rods do fit the new inner tie rods, so that diameter and thread pitch is the same.
New and old next to each other. The old outer tie rods do fit the new inner tie rods, so that diameter and thread pitch is the same.
- Thread starter
- #9
Well.. I can also confirm the the caster bolts for the front LCA's are different smaller size as well. I couldn't find someone an Amazon that sold both the driver & pass side LCA's for 2010+, so I ordered the older model LCA's.. (AutoZone was the only one who carried them locally, the Duralast set would run me $1k).
There will be some play in the LCA mounting to the frame from the smaller bolt.. but I'll redneck rig something to make them fit. I just need a few months out of them before going LT.
There will be some play in the LCA mounting to the frame from the smaller bolt.. but I'll redneck rig something to make them fit. I just need a few months out of them before going LT.
