2000 Lx470 AC Temp knob disconnected. I can see hardware inside floating freely.

[MissTake]

I've purchased the soldering kit for the AC/HEAT buttons. However, those just are fixes for the buttons. When i was looking for just the knob part number, so i could affix a new knob, I noticed that the whole temperature knob assembly is loose, as in I can see the circuitry/microchip dangling from the metal rod where you'd affix the knob to. it wobles in x y and zed.

My concern here is that I'm trying to do a coolant flush, and one of the main steps seems to be to turn the heat on, which I cannot do currently. So i was focusing on getting the AC controls working.

Has anyone else had success repairing the temp knob connection? Its the Temp KNOB below.

Thank you!

 

[MissTake]

For future mudders:

After searching all night its called a 'internal rotary encoder' doesn't seem sold separately as its connected to the circuit board directly.

Amazon.com : rotary encoder switch

Will update this thread with findings, maybe there will be a serial number or something on it.

 

[leveeguy]

As far as your coolant flush is concerned you should be able to proceed with that without figuring out this specific issue.

As far as I know the cooling system passes coolant through the 2 heater cores regardless of the temp setting of HVAC controls which all occurs at the infamous heater T connections near firewall.

If you have the ability to blow out the heater cores during your flush that would be good idea cause those usually retain fluid during flush due to location but can be blown out by air via the heater T lines. i use a shop vac in reverse setup to do this.

 

[MissTake]

As far as your coolant flush is concerned you should be able to proceed with that without figuring out this specific issue.

As far as I know the cooling system passes coolant through the 2 heater cores regardless of the temp setting of HVAC controls which all occurs at the infamous heater T connections near firewall.

If you have the ability to blow out the heater cores during your flush that would be good idea cause those usually retain fluid during flush due to location but can be blown out by air via the heater T lines. i use a shop vac in reverse setup to do this.

Copy that. the car was sitting 5 years, so the AC hasn't been on since, or the heater. I was just worried i wouldn't be fully flushing the core, if the heater valve wasn't turned on for that step of the procedure. I was looking into if i can manually turn the valve on but it looks to be different than a 4 runner, and im not sure it would even work properly without the blower motor running... so went down climate control button rabbit hole.

by blow out you mean just hooking up the shopvac hose to the input, and another hose in a bucket and blow it out that way? Sort of like instead of a water hose(which seems like you should use some sort of distilled water instead) going in to flush it, im just blowing air in with the shopvac to clear it out, then reconnect everything and do the coolant flush?

Thank you again for the response.

 

[leveeguy]

by blow out you mean just hooking up the shopvac hose to the input, and another hose in a bucket and blow it out that way? Sort of like instead of a water hose(which seems like you should use some sort of distilled water instead) going in to flush it, im just blowing air in with the shopvac to clear it out, then reconnect everything and do the coolant flush?

Flush it however you want (distilled, hose with pressure) how ever many times etc., but at the final flush drain out blow out the residual fluid in the heater cores with air as final step prior to reconnecting all hoses then refilling with coolant

 

[MissTake]

This is why it was freely floating, shockingly, its not affixed to anything.

Here are the findings, From the outside before i opened it up, i've always just had a bare steel rode (rotary encoder). Once I pulled it off, and turned it on its side, a loose washer fell out. I assume there was a nut that also fell out in ancient history. Also my radio buttons/hardware arent the problem, it seems that constant mashing of the buttons in history has broken off the housing screws in the back of the whole climate control unit. Theres 2 screws hanging on for dear life of the whole black box that affixes to the bezel, clearly if youpress buttons, the whole thing shifts backwards into the console. I think I can shove some sort of shims in the side and duct tape to get it to the point of what i need but, not sure how to make holes again for plastic to get the screw to sink into.

This thing is a remarkable setup. Everything feels heavy and well made.

Im going to see if I an find a nut that fits with the washer and go from there. The top most part of the encoder rotates, the bottom/where youd put a nut, doesnt.

QUESTION to anyone with a functional unit -- if you can see below the hole for the temp gauge has a shard of plastic material around the whole. Is there a whole chunk of something missing? Or was it just plastic screen or something for the light to glow behind it? (i vaguely remember a light being on, and it looks like a ribon wire is connected to the plastic shroud. I can see possibly glue or something on the inner circle.

Perhaps that thing held it in place as well.. but from hand holding it, if i can get it locked in there, it should rotate enough for me to turn the heat up. It looks metal in this pic, but its the flash, its clear plastic.

I'm trying to keep everything stock. So can hopefully get this going enough to buy a new/used unit one day. without button fade.

 

[TLCJC]

by chance do you have a part number for just the knob to be replaced? Mine needs a fix. Thank you and good luck with your repairs

 

[MissTake]

by chance do you have a part number for just the knob to be replaced? Mine needs a fix. Thank you and good luck with your repairs

yes there is a part number for the knob. i swear I saw a solo one being sold once upon a time but;

This forum says it has been discontinued -- but good luck with search. Lexuspartsnow.com has it but now im wondering how reliable they are.

Thread 'Faded AC buttons? replaceable?'

Sep 29, 2020

Anyone ran into this issue, i am trying to find the part numbers to fix 2 faded buttons but i can only find a kit which includes 1 out of 2 that are bad.. would prefer to just buy the 2 parts i need but cannot find part numbers.

Its a 2001 LX

1998-2002 OEM LEXUS LX470 TOYOTA 55905-60310 Replacement AC Knobs Buttons KIT | eBay

LEXUS LX470. AC Knobs Buttons KIT. TOYOTA LANDCRUISER.

www.ebay.com

• 95Fantasma80
• Replies: 8
• Forum: 100-Series Cruisers

I swear when i was looking I saw a single one for sale in googles search, then i got into the above rabbit hole.

Let me know if you have better results, im still watching soldering tutorials.