20 year Items overlooked thread

[LINUS]

Must the engine be removed to replace the motor mounts?

To add, you can use a simple support bracket too - but a well used one with all-thread that is greased to the hilt is what it takes with the 1FZ/3FE.

I built a bracket but no pics readily here - 2" box & a couple 14" pedastals in the fender lips, a couple rings of 2.5" - 1/8" box w/ all-thread welded to it via a 2" chunk of pipe to lift the weight run nuts in the all-thread up (use a couple washers to decrease drag, heavy motor). And plenty of grease. Did I mention grease?

 

[Malleus]

View attachment 1393714 we all take for granted the type of vehicle these Fj80's are....bulletproof and reliable.

Now that they are starring/past the 20year mark, I thought I start a thread on what other members noticed that should be replaced due to age. Pictures are a thousand words include them if you have them.

Here I go, engine mounts off a 95 with 270k.

Ewww!

 

[Comet]

Window channel runs, basically anything rubber that dampens noise or seals out the elements. Don't forget the transmission mount when you do the engine mounts.

 

[Malleus]

LSPV failed due to internal corrosion @ 185k

View attachment 1393836 View attachment 1393837

x2; just did this last month; replaced the valve after inspection proved that rebuild wasn't practical. PITA to remove. Still have (1) LSBPV body mounting bolt wedged between the tank skid plate and the tank. Dreading removing the plate due to completely rusted mounting bolts.

When I replaced mine, I DID NOT replace the adjuster, gambling that since I hadn't changed any geometry, the OEM balance position would be correct. This was later verified, as per FSM. In hindsight, I'd replace the adjuster too, since it's a low-cost component of the total job.

Note: FSM procedure requires verifying balance after replacement, requiring (4) gauges to check the pressure at each wheel simultaneously, after front-loading the vehicle. Since this is a "once-in-a-lifetime" job, unless you just have a truck scale and several high pressure hydraulic gauges, plus a manifold, lying around, it's a dealership job.

 

[Malleus]

Window channel runs, basically anything rubber that dampens noise or seals out the elements. Don't forget the transmission mount when you do the engine mounts.

x2; did this last year when I had the whole exterior repainted. The noise was so bad at in-town speed limits, the stereo could hardly keep up. Cheap fix with OEM gaskets.

Same 80 as previous post; 170k-ish miles

 

[Proven]

I am about 300 miles from 200k. Oh man.

 

[Beej]

x2; did this last year when I had the whole exterior repainted. The noise was so bad at in-town speed limits, the stereo could hardly keep up. Cheap fix with OEM gaskets.

Same 80 as previous post; 170k-ish miles

Did what now? Replaced door seals?

I have pretty bad noise as well; wondering specifically what you went after to combat it.

 

[bigredmachine]

LSPV failed due to internal corrosion @ 185k

looks way better than mine did, I ended up having to cut it off of the truck. surprisingly mine was still mostly working, sometimes

 

[Weng]

Replaced 2 ea engine and 1ea transmission supports in my '95 HDJ80 at 225k km. Big improvement on idling, reduced vibration especially when turning engine off. Genuine toyota support costs $60 each from where I live. I also replaced the rear control arm bushings

 

[mudgudgeon]

No pic, but i reckon King pin or trunnion bearings and TREs are over looked.
Pulled a set of king pins out of my 105 that were siezed and causing a funky steering action. I took a s***ty little smart phone video of it.



Changing them sharpened the steering feel dramatically

 

[AJP]

Although I haven't looked too carefully at them, I'm 'planning' on replacing my brake lines this spring ... Canadian road salt. 1997 LX450 - 357,000 KM

 

[retrofive]

Sunroof seal and components.

 

[GA Trevor]

Fusible Links

 

[Kaninja]

Radiator cap at 260k miles. I've posted this before, but if you hear boiling yet your temp needle is smack in the middle of normal, this is why.

 

[jvazquez53]

I replaced all mounts, engine/transmission.

 

[Fj81]

How about vacuum lines? I know I need a replacement accelerator cable. It lacks the smoothness it should have when accelerating.

How about fuel tank items like the gas cap or filler neck? Maybe tank straps?

I am also weary of the overall engine wiring too. Would be nice to be able to run a standalone setup. But I know that complicates things for the trans control and probably a bunch of other doodads.

 

[AJP]

I did pretty much all the small engine vacuum lines when I replaced my VSV for EGR. If you havent done it yet ... look at the rear heater lines and seriously consider the 'rear heater bypass'

 

[PolarRunner]

If doing the window seals, consider the rear slider rubber as well. I noticed some water collecting in the jack holder after the 2 days straight rain we had a few weeks back. Checked it tonight when I was organizing and vacuuming the rear and there's some serious rust. The good news is it's still solid and the rust hasn't gone all the way through the metal. There's not much metal left though.

Back of the same piece.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If doing the window seals, consider the rear slider rubber as well. I noticed some water collecting in the jack holder after the 2 days straight rain we had a few weeks back. Checked it tonight when I was organizing and vacuuming the rear and there's some serious rust. The good news is it's still solid and the rust hasn't gone all the way through the metal. There's not much metal left though.

Back of the same piece.

Those little white clips just visible in your last pic can leak water into the jack storage too. They clip the chrome trim below the windows on.

 

[PolarRunner]

Ah yes, I remember reading a few comments about those now that you mention it. Looks like I'll be taking it all apart and sealing it up and cleaning up the rust. Thanks for the tip @mudgudgeon