2 Cheap fixes this weekend, and a question... (1 Viewer)

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I read a thread here last week about the "extra wire" on the Toyota starter for connecting 12v. to the coil during starting. I decided to check to see if mine was hooked up. It wasn't and I hooked it up in about 5 minutes. Man! what a difference that piece of wire made in cranking my truck! I have posted here before asking why my truck took so long to crank, now I see why. It cranks like a new truck now!

While I was doing that, I noticed the PCV valve. I pulled it off to see if it was "free" and it wasn't. I sprayed a little carb cleaner in it and got it rattling again and re-installed it. I have noticed that throttle response is much better and the idle seems smoother. Is this what I should see when the PCV valve is stuck and then fixed? Are there any other symptoms that I should have fixed by doing this?

Those were 2 very cheap fixes that have made significant differences in my truck. I love that kind of stuff!

Thanks for the idas, as usual!
 
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metalonmetal said:
interesting, i might have to pop the hood on my cruiser when i get home. where's the pcv valve located? at the back behind the air cleaner?

On my '79 it is. It comes out of a metal tube coming out of the engine about midway down and about 6 inches from the back of the engine then there is a rubber hose that comes out of the top of the PCV to the back of the carb over the top of the engine.

If it rattles freely when you shake it, it should be OK. It is just a metal tube with a cylindrical metal piece in it that slides up and down inside the tube to open and close the valve. Pretty simple really. I don't see any reason to replace it, just clean it out with some carb cleaner and it should last another 20-30 years...

HTH
 
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The Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve "PVC" is an emissions item and is designed to vent crankcase pressure back into the upstream air system. This prevents oil and fuel vapor from the crankcase being released to the atmosphere. The "check valve" style prevents intake (up stream) air from pressurizing the crankcase which could lead to blown lower gaskets or decreased performance from pressure excerted on the bottom of the pistons. An example of a vehicle without PVC would be a monster truck. Next time you see one in action look for the tube hanging out the bottom with what looks like smoke pouring out. That smoke is crankcase vapor being released to the atmosphere.
 
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I'll try to get a pic tonight. I have a new computer though and don't have all the software loaded to download pics yet.

The wire is just hanging out of the solenoid with a typical Toyota OEM white connector on it that is a female spade plug inside the white plastic housing. I just hooked a male spade plug to a piece of wirre and put a ring connector on the other end. Connected the ring terminal to the "+" terminal on the coil and the spade plug into the connector on the starter.

It made a big difference. I used to have to grind the starter for 20 or thirty seconds and sometimes repeat this while pumping the accelerator a bunch of times. Sometimes it would crank up fairly quickly, usually it didn't unless it had been run the day before or the same day. Now it cranks up within 5 or 10 seconds, even if it hasn't been cranked in days.

Definitely worht a look.

HTH
 
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74fj40 said:
youknwo, you can get new pcv valves for like 4 bucks at you local auto store, not a bad investment...
mine was less than that...replaced it and it did help...i also changed the fuel filer and was able to get up above 60 on the speedo before it did the whole "TOO FAST I'M GONNA DIE NOW" bit :D
 
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metalonmetal said:
whoa, that's a lotta cranking. even 5 seconds seems a lot to me.

Yeah, I know, but there are still a few things I need to do to mine to get things "ship shape". Not the least of which is adjust the valves. I've never done it before and I have been putting it off until I get the time (and the nerve). I also need to get a new valve cover gasket, it's leaking a bit already so I know I will need to replace it after I take the cover off.

I'm whittling away at things as I think of them and it has made a tremendous difference in how my truck runs. I'm still learnin though, so some of the delay is just me figuring out what needs to be done and what order they need to be done in.
 

metalonmetal

Rebuilding
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Rick '79 FJ40 said:
Yeah, I know, but there are still a few things I need to do to mine to get things "ship shape". Not the least of which is adjust the valves. I've never done it before and I have been putting it off until I get the time (and the nerve). I also need to get a new valve cover gasket, it's leaking a bit already so I know I will need to replace it after I take the cover off.

I'm whittling away at things as I think of them and it has made a tremendous difference in how my truck runs. I'm still learnin though, so some of the delay is just me figuring out what needs to be done and what order they need to be done in.

that's understandable, i think we've all been in the situation, i'm still in it.
 
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projektdotnet said:
mine needs plenty of seals...i really hate seals cause you have no idea how tight the PO had them on X(

Yeah, my rear main is leaking. I need to fix it, but I think that job is a few too many "bananas" for me. I'm going to try to save up the money to get the transmission and t-case rebuilt, along with a new clutch when I get that fixed, so it's going to take a bit of cash...

I just received the parts to rebuild my e-brake and replace the t-case output shaft seal to fix one leak. Then I need to replace the rear diff. cover gasket to fix another. I think my oil pan gasket may be leaking a little, so I'll probably tackle that sooner or later. I HATE a leaky vehicle!

Then I need to find someone with a cooling system pressure tester to find a small leak there...

So many leaks, so little time.
 
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78-FJ40 said:
Are you still going to post a pic of the wire?

I'll try. I need to find my software for my computer to download the pictures. I'm not sure how close I can take a picture, but I'll do my best.

It may be a day or 2 before I can get it uploaded, but I'll do it ASAP.
 
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Rick '79 FJ40 said:
I'll try. I need to find my software for my computer to download the pictures. I'm not sure how close I can take a picture, but I'll do my best.

It may be a day or 2 before I can get it uploaded, but I'll do it ASAP.
dude...you're using Microshaft Winblows aren't you? Just plug in the camera and it should add it as a "USB Mass Storage Device" and then browse into "My Computer" then find the pictures in what should be labeled "Removeable Drive (SomeLetterHere:)" Not that hard really...ih8propietarysoftware!
 
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projektdotnet said:
dude...you're using Microshaft Winblows aren't you? Just plug in the camera and it should add it as a "USB Mass Storage Device" and then browse into "My Computer" then find the pictures in what should be labeled "Removeable Drive (SomeLetterHere:)" Not that hard really...ih8propietarysoftware!

This is a really old camera and isn't USB, just an old fashioned DB-9, but it may still work. I don't have the camera here with me, but I'll try it when I get home.

I d/L'ed the software off of the Kodak web site and tried to install it, but it did something weird and now I can't find the program in "rogram Files"...

I need a day off.

Thanks!
 

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