1KZ-TE Blow by and fumey smell from exhaust (1 Viewer)

[KiwiBogan]

My 2000 1KZ-TE Prado starts and runs very well. However theirs a couple of small issues I am trying to iron out before taking it in to be dyno tuned in a couple of weeks.

1. Theirs a strong fumey smell coming from the exhaust. Not a diesel smell, not a coolant smell, almost certainly an oil smell. No loss of oil on the dip stick.
2. Idle - the engine/car/exhaust is a bit shakey and the engine misses every 20 seconds or so. Roughness smooths out at about 800-1000 rpm
3. When holding 1000 rpm revs, the can starts smoking a grey/blue smoke and sputtering a bit. Runs smooth with more revs. Holding revs at about 2000rpm also misses a bit.
4. I've recently installed a catch can. Their was hazey smoke, strong fumey smell coming out the valve cover being recircualted back into the turbo intake

This engine was only installed a few months ago from an interstate donor 1996 Hilux. Engine seller had installed a new head/injectors/timing kit etc at some point but the engine looked like it had been sitting for a while since all that was done. The Turbo is brand new - only a few months old and works well. I've recently sprung a major oil leak from the sump gasket which I am about to have repaired at the mechanics on Monday. I believe this might be a result of the s*** job the dodgy mobile mechanic I hired to help swap the engine over did when swapping the sumps over to fit around the different diff location (Hilux to Prado). I'd also like to add we had to swap the injector pumps over too as the one that came with the engine was different to mine. Is it possible the injection timing might be out causing the weird idling/missing?

Regarding the fumey smell and blue/grey smoke, any low cost ideas or things to try before looking at major things like worn rings and other major components? Like I said the car seems to be running well with plenty of power (well, as powerful as an old 1kz can be lol). I'm about to spend about $1000 having the sump gasket replaced and another couple of grand having a unichip installed and the engine tuned.

Thanks for any help!

 

[nOtArEaLcRuIsEr]

Before you spend $1k on an oil pan gasket can you check the bolts yourself with a torque wrench?

 

[KiwiBogan]

Before you spend $1k on an oil pan gasket can you check the bolts yourself with a torque wrench?

Yep, did that. Snapped off the head of one of the bolts on the non leaking side and tighten up the leaking side the best I could but to no avail Theirs no room to get in there due to the bloody diff being right in the way. Needs diff drop and engine raised a little bit to get in there. Decided to handball it to the local garage mechanic (not the mobile mechanic I used the first time) and get it done properly. Also getting new engine mounts installed at the same time as that could be the reason for the engine shaking?

 

[nOtArEaLcRuIsEr]

When you swapped the pump you lined up the timing mark?

The oil pan bolt torque are 16Nm, they shouldnt have snapped off

 

[KiwiBogan]

When you swapped the pump you lined up the timing mark?

The oil pan bolt torque are 16Nm, they shouldnt have snapped off

Yes lined up the mark. I took the pump off my old engine (which was set to TDC) and installed on the new engine (which was set to TDC). I left the pulley/sprocket in place on the new engine so didnt have to remove the timing belt, just swapped the pump over. The location of the pumps shaft locator lined up almost perfectly. I do wonder when doing so if the pump ended up not quite right? I did have to clock the pump slightly (retarded or clockwise as you look at the engine from the front) during install to get it to line up and then advance again (anti clockwise) to line up the marks on the side of the pump and the timing casing. I've read conflicting views on timing these electronic pumps. Some say the ECU auto corrects the timing, you just need to line those marks up on the pump. Other sources say the pump might need to be clocked a bee's dick advanced/retarded away from that mark on the timing casing to fine tune.

I didnt do the tightening with a torque wrench, just by hand with a socket. The machanic that originally swapped it over did it in a hurry with an impact wrench. But don't get me started on this guy.... I've lost so much money due to this mechanics incompetence. It's quite upsetting

 

[nOtArEaLcRuIsEr]

The manual says to just line the mark up. Id start there until the problems go away.

Bee's dick? Ill be using that one from now on.

 

[KiwiBogan]

The manual says to just line the mark up. Id start there until the problems go away.

Yeah it does, but it also adds if it's still not 100% to take it to a Diesel specialist for fine tuning (or something to that effect). I'm referenceing the Gregories manual for 95 and 120 series prado's

Thanks for your input BTW

 

[epaul]

Did you get this sorted? I had similar symptoms after having some work done and it was as simple as the TPS not being in the right position.

 

[KiwiBogan]

Did you get this sorted? I had similar symptoms after having some work done and it was as simple as the TPS not being in the right position.

Ahh that's interesting! I did wonder about that but I'm not entirely confident touching it as I've heard it can be temperamental? She's going in to have a Unichip installed and tuned in a couple of weeks so hopefully they can sort all that out at the same time! I'd like to try and fix whatever I can first though so it's ready to hit the Dyno running! Have you played with the TPS before? Any tips?

 

[epaul]

Well my idle was also higher than normal. It was nearly 900 and usually is around 650. I just loosened the screws and rotated it until the idle was back where it had been and it’s been running fine since.

 

[KiwiBogan]

Well my idle was also higher than normal. It was nearly 900 and usually is around 650. I just loosened the screws and rotated it until the idle was back where it had been and it’s been running fine since.

Ahh gotcha! Mine idles at 650 already which almost sounds a bit fast. But I'm happy with it for the most part. But if I hold the revs at 1000rpm, the engine misses a fair bit.