1HDT engine removal (1 Viewer)

[Malahki]

So I am going to be pulling the 1HDT out of my 1992 HDJ81 with auto trans and I am looking for a little advise, tricks or tips. I already have the top end stripped down and head removed. I am just having a little trouble with the wiring harness and tranny cooler lines that run above the starter.
A few questions:
1) is their enough clearance on the tranny cooler lines without removing them?
2) Do the 2 large wiring harness connectors above the starter that lead back to the transmission have to be unplugged. I have not been able to get them apart so far.
3) is their any advantage or reason to pulling the engine and tranny together?

 

[Malahki]

A few pics:

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

So I am going to be pulling the 1HDT out of my 1992 HDJ81 with auto trans and I am looking for a little advise, tricks or tips. I already have the top end stripped down and head removed. I am just having a little trouble with the wiring harness and tranny cooler lines that run above the starter.
A few questions:
1) is their enough clearance on the tranny cooler lines without removing them?
2) Do the 2 large wiring harness connectors above the starter that lead back to the transmission have to be unplugged. I have not been able to get them apart so far.
3) is their any advantage or reason to pulling the engine and tranny together?

I have done that (too) many times, but never with an auto, only a manual. So I cannot answer the questions about the tranny cooler lines.

2) Yes, unplug these connectors. Then you can leave the rear part of the harness on the tranny/transfer. Alternatively you can unplug everything from the tranny/transfer and leave the harness connected to the main harness. But that is harder as some of these plugs are hard to get at.

3) I find it harder to pull it all together. If you do so, you need to take the front clip out, including the front cross member. The whole thing together is seriously heavy.
We used to do that, but now first take the transfer off (easy, 6 bolts, and 2 people can easily lift it), then the transmission (you should use a good tranny jack, the auto is very heavy), and then the engine. If you do it that way you can leave the front clip in and even the A/C does not have to be drained. Just unbolt the compressor and set it to the side.
You will still have to pull the radiator first though.
It also helps to unbolt the heater lines at the firewall-you gain more space then.

cheers,
J

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Actually by pulling the head you made your work harder, as you don't have the a/c bracket and rear engine hook anymore to work with.
cheers,
Jan

 

[Malahki]

Thanks for the input Jan, I was hoping you would chime in. I only pulled the head to determine the cause of my engine tick/knock. More detail on that can be found here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...endation-calgary-southern-ab-diesel-shop.html

After removing the head and seeing the scoring in the cylinders it was determined it was time for a rebuild. Initially I was going to put the head back on to pull the motor for the reason you mentioned but figured it was less work to build a couple lifting brackets out of angle iron and secure them with the head bolts front and rear. Also gaining clearance on the firewall and heater hoses/brackets.

The A/C already had the condenser removed and lines left open by the PO, so draining it was not an issue. I have the rad and grill out as well but wasnt planning to remove the cross bar unless necessary.

I havent decided if I am going to upgrade or rebuild the auto trans or not at this time (waiting to see how much I put into the engine rebuild first), so I think I will just leave it in place for now if I dont need to pull it with the motor. I assume I will need to still support the front of the tranny when I separate the motor? Also should I remove the starter or can I leave it in place?

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Thanks for the input Jan, I was hoping you would chime in. I only pulled the head to determine the cause of my engine tick/knock. More detail on that can be found here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...endation-calgary-southern-ab-diesel-shop.html

After removing the head and seeing the scoring in the cylinders it was determined it was time for a rebuild. Initially I was going to put the head back on to pull the motor for the reason you mentioned but figured it was less work to build a couple lifting brackets out of angle iron and secure them with the head bolts front and rear. Also gaining clearance on the firewall and heater hoses/brackets.

The A/C already had the condenser removed and lines left open by the PO, so draining it was not an issue. I have the rad and grill out as well but wasnt planning to remove the cross bar unless necessary.

I havent decided if I am going to upgrade or rebuild the auto trans or not at this time (waiting to see how much I put into the engine rebuild first), so I think I will just leave it in place for now if I dont need to pull it with the motor. I assume I will need to still support the front of the tranny when I separate the motor? Also should I remove the starter or can I leave it in place?

I have never tried to leave the transmission in place, we have always pulled it first.
You will have to lift the engine up a couple of inches to get it off the engine mounts, otherwise you cannot pull it forward (which is necessary to uncouple it from the transmission.
So I guess you could lift it up a bit, then support the transmission, then uncouple them. This is certainly possible, as I have seen trucks without the engine where the tranny was still in there. I would guess it is a pain in the ass to mate them again when putting the engine back in, but that is a problem for later.

The starter will have to come out, as the stud/nut on top and the bolt on the bottom are part of what holds the bell housing to the engine.

cheers,
Jan

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Oh and yes, you will have no clearing issues without the head, so no need to unbolt the heater lines on the firewall.
cheers,
Jan

 

[Malahki]

Its been a while but I am finally back working on this project. So I tried lifting the engine, trans and t-case out as one unit but as Jan had said previously it is a lot of weight and it also does not balance well. So I decided to drop the t-case but now that has become an issue. I unbolted the 6 - 17mm head bolts on the rear case half and the case will open up a crack all the way around but it will not come free. What am I missing?? Again this an auto (A442F) in a 1991 HDJ81