Just bought an '84FJ60 with 1HDT conversion. Previous owner purchased the truck with the conversion already done, so no idea how many miles on the engine. Can anyone give me a very rough ballpark on what a Big End Bearing refresh should cost? I assume that the crank has to be completely dropped in order to do the job.
1HDT BeB service
- Thread starter Rumblefrog
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but it was the conrod bearings which typically had issues and not the beb.
Not 100% sure on a 60 series, but in an 80 you can drop the sump and do the conrod bearings in the vehicle. Takes around 3-4 hours and like $50 for new bearings.
Doing the BEB is considerably more work… I would almost consider pulling the motor and then changing every seal/gasket and the clutch rather than trying to do it in the vehicle.
Not 100% sure on a 60 series, but in an 80 you can drop the sump and do the conrod bearings in the vehicle. Takes around 3-4 hours and like $50 for new bearings.
Doing the BEB is considerably more work… I would almost consider pulling the motor and then changing every seal/gasket and the clutch rather than trying to do it in the vehicle.
Yes, BEB stands for "big and bearing" which is referring to the big end of the connecting rod, not the crank bearings.
This is what normally sees wear on this engine, and the thing most owners are concerned about replacing when getting a used engine.
You should be able to just drop the oil pan even in the 60 chassis and access it from underneath to do the work.
You do not need to remove the crank at all. Just do one connecting rod at a time and it goes pretty smooth.
If you don't know the history of the engine definitely measure the journal to make sure it hasn't been turned under size requiring oversized bearings. Also plasticgaging the new bearings is a good idea.
Also replace the rod bolts as they are one time use.
The oil pan is just held on with FIPG.
This is what normally sees wear on this engine, and the thing most owners are concerned about replacing when getting a used engine.
You should be able to just drop the oil pan even in the 60 chassis and access it from underneath to do the work.
You do not need to remove the crank at all. Just do one connecting rod at a time and it goes pretty smooth.
If you don't know the history of the engine definitely measure the journal to make sure it hasn't been turned under size requiring oversized bearings. Also plasticgaging the new bearings is a good idea.
Also replace the rod bolts as they are one time use.
The oil pan is just held on with FIPG.
Have you done this with rods and crank in the block?
Bolts are friction/pressed fit into the rods aren't they?
If you don't know the history of the engine, make changing the timing belt, timing belt idler pulley, and idler tension spring a priority too.
The crank does not need to be removed to change BEBs.
As above, it can be done from underneath
Yes, I've done a handful of them with the pistons/rods still in the complete engine, with just the oil pan off.
The ones I've done were pre-swap so it was on an engine stand while also refreshing all seals and TB also, but I have witnessed and assisted several others in the vehicle. It is definitely possible in the vehicle.
Rod caps are held down by bolts that should not be reused, not studs and nuts.
Get a FSM and see the procedure.
The ones I've done were pre-swap so it was on an engine stand while also refreshing all seals and TB also, but I have witnessed and assisted several others in the vehicle. It is definitely possible in the vehicle.
Rod caps are held down by bolts that should not be reused, not studs and nuts.
Get a FSM and see the procedure.
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2021
- Threads
- 12
- Messages
- 237
I just did this a few weeks ago. Definently best done on a lift. The procedure is in the FSM, which is available on here. Pull oil pan, pull suction rod/screen. Work them as three sets of two, as two will be at the bottom together in their rotation.
Pull two bolts and lower bearing, push rod up a fraction, pull upper bearing (push it over the top w a tiny screwdriver real delicate like). Lube, replace upper, lube and replace lower, two new bolts torqued to spec and a further 90degrees. After each one rotate crank from front of engine to ensure smooth operation.
Ensure absolute cleanliness. Do not touch bearing surfaces with anything metal, as theyre super sensitive. Inspect old bearing surfaces for any wear. Scratch a surace with your wee screwdriver to demonstrate just how soft the metal is. Mine were perfect after 260km on a 1990 HD-T, which was certainly nice to see!
Scrape oil pan mating sufaces perfectly clean, avoiding marring, and seal with grey sealant. Tighten oil pan bolts and never touch them again, as that will compromise the sealant's seal.
I measured old bearings and new bearings with an electronic caliper. All within .002. I dont feel plastigauge is a necessary step, as youre not gonna order different size bearings. If your old bearings and new bearings are different sizes, you got a problem.
Whatever the value of unsolicited opinions may be... One of the two biggest lessons l have learned in life: "Just keep your damned fool mouth shut!" (The other being: "If youre gonna **** around, you cant **** up.")
Solid gold words of wisdom:
Dave Martin at Back40 in Montana has bearing and bolt kits. And all kinds of other Toyota diesel goodies, too! I replaced my oil pressure sensor while l was under there.
Ensure absolute cleanliness. Do not touch bearing surfaces with anything metal, as theyre super sensitive. Inspect old bearing surfaces for any wear. Scratch a surace with your wee screwdriver to demonstrate just how soft the metal is. Mine were perfect after 260km on a 1990 HD-T, which was certainly nice to see!
Scrape oil pan mating sufaces perfectly clean, avoiding marring, and seal with grey sealant. Tighten oil pan bolts and never touch them again, as that will compromise the sealant's seal.
I measured old bearings and new bearings with an electronic caliper. All within .002. I dont feel plastigauge is a necessary step, as youre not gonna order different size bearings. If your old bearings and new bearings are different sizes, you got a problem.
Whatever the value of unsolicited opinions may be... One of the two biggest lessons l have learned in life: "Just keep your damned fool mouth shut!" (The other being: "If youre gonna **** around, you cant **** up.")
Solid gold words of wisdom:
Dave Martin at Back40 in Montana has bearing and bolt kits. And all kinds of other Toyota diesel goodies, too! I replaced my oil pressure sensor while l was under there.
Last edited:
