1FZ rebuild questions

[TNos54]

Hey all. I've been very slowly working my through a rebuild of a second 1FZ 1 picked up that has a TRD supercharger. I have it fully torn down and ready for the machine shop, but had some questions before I drop it off.

First is pistons. I want want to get new oem set, but I'm not sure if I should get oversized ones and have the shop bore the cylinders? Is this a standard practice for the 1fz? To my (very) untrained eyes the cylinders look good on this engine. It had 200k when it was pulled, with the supercharger on it for the last ~80k.

For the main cap bolts I was going to order a new oem set. I have seen people use arp studs here too, but it seems more trouble than it's worth? Since it's supercharged I am doing arp studs on the head, but I'm not sure I really need to do it for the caps.

Last question is on the oil bushing. I picked up a new one from Landtank. Should I be removing that before sending the block to the shop?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Order .50mm over sized OEM pistons and rings, have the machine remove your old bushing when the block is hot from cleaning. OEM cap bolts are plenty strong.

 

[TNos54]

Order .50mm over sized OEM pistons and rings, have the machine remove your old bushing when the block is hot from cleaning. OEM cap bolts are plenty strong.

Sounds good, thanks for the quick reply.

One other question I had is on the oil squirters. Keep them in or remove them (cylinders and timing case)?

 

[Fj80oregon]

Pull them and have the machine shop hot tank them. Make sure the check ball on the squirter bolts move freely. I would buy a new timing cover aisin TCT-073 and have it machined with the block, then you get a new oil pump with the cover. Have the machine shop hot tank you oil cooler and oil cooler cover.

 

[TNos54]

Pull them and have the machine shop hot tank them. Make sure the check ball on the squirter bolts move freely. I would buy a new timing cover aisin TCT-073 and have it machined with the block, then you get a new oil pump with the cover. Have the machine shop hot tank you oil cooler and oil cooler cover.

I didn't realize you could get a whole new timing cover. So you think its better to get a brand new cover vs cleaning up the old one? I did already pick up a new rotor and drive gear. I also got a new oil cooler.

Another question about the connecting and crank bearings. Onur's PDF lists these.
13011-66021: BEARING SET, CONNECTING ROD
11704-66031: BEARING SET, MAIN BEARINGS (UNDERSIZED .25MM)

If I'm getting new connecting rods with the piston heads, are these the bearings I need to get? I need to read the FSM again, but do I need to match the markings for the ones I pulled?

 

[peacesells63]

Keep in mind that If you decide on arp hardware in the rods or mains, you need to have them resized after as the arp hardware will provide more clamping force and can distort the journals. If you are keeping the stock ecu and cams, you won't ever get close to the territory of getting any benefit from them on the rotating assembly.

On bore size and main/rod bearings - you don't know until you measure. If you don't have the tools to measure yourself, let the machinist tell you what you need. Also, don't trust any machine shop that will do machine work without the pistons in hand. Clearance is extremely important, and the final bore size may be different on every cylinder depending on what the pistons measure out at. Same goes with rod and main bearings, I always buy them after the machine shop determines if the crank or journals need any work.

 

[bjowett]

Yes, the timing cover comes with that new oil pump, which is always a good idea, as the aluminum housing that the rotors run in will be the point of the greatest wear. A little blue printing in the oil pump isn’t a bad idea, either. It’s been many years since I looked at one, but the casting and machining were less than ideal in a few non critical spots.

 

[TNos54]

Keep in mind that If you decide on arp hardware in the rods or mains, you need to have them resized after as the arp hardware will provide more clamping force and can distort the journals. If you are keeping the stock ecu and cams, you won't ever get close to the territory of getting any benefit from them on the rotating assembly.

On bore size and main/rod bearings - you don't know until you measure. If you don't have the tools to measure yourself, let the machinist tell you what you need. Also, don't trust any machine shop that will do machine work without the pistons in hand. Clearance is extremely important, and the final bore size may be different on every cylinder depending on what the pistons measure out at. Same goes with rod and main bearings, I always buy them after the machine shop determines if the crank or journals need any work.

@peacesells63 Just to make sure I'm following correctly. I should get new pistons/con rods before going to the machine shop, then get the rod/crank bearings after everything has been measured?

Regarding arp studs on the head, I wasn't planning on doing anything beyond the stock supercharger setup. You're saying its not worth it to use studs if I'm using the stock setup?

 

[peacesells63]

@peacesells63 Just to make sure I'm following correctly. I should get new pistons/con rods before going to the machine shop, then get the rod/crank bearings after everything has been measured?

Regarding arp studs on the head, I wasn't planning on doing anything beyond the stock supercharger setup. You're saying its not worth it to use studs if I'm using the stock setup

I dont buy any rotating assembly parts until everything is measured and machine work is determined. Otherwise you may end up with a bunch of parts you cant use or aren't needed. My advice would be to take it to a good reputable machine shop as is, have them clean and measure everything and come up with a plan for the machine work and a parts list of what you need. If you are dead set on replacing the connecting rods, the machinist will need the new rods to measure. Odds are you wont need new rods unless something bad happened. The small end bushings can be replaced for about 1/5 the cost of new rods that may need work anyways. OEM rods probably wont need work, but aftermarket rods always do and all parts need to be measured regardless of who made them.

If the machinist needs to bore to the next oversize, they will usually do a rough oversize to around .005" of the new piston size then wait until they have the pistons in hand to do the final hone to the actual piston size. Its not uncommon to see variation of .001-.003" in the same batch of pistons - though I have much more faith in toyota parts than aftermarket, they still need to be measured.

I was talking about ARP hardware on the rotating assembly, I am all for ARP head studs. I personally wont reuse torque to yield head bolts and ARP studs are cheaper than new head bolts, plus have more accurate final torque values and less stretch than OEM bolts. All positives IMO, especially on a boosted engine.

If you plan to do the assembly yourself, remember that it is on you to check all of your bearing clearances, thrust clearances and set ring gap. Anyone can rebuild a motor and make it run, but knowing your rebuild will make it 300k miles at the time of assembly takes knowlege and time - no luck is involved. The quality of the machine work is extremely important and it is only verified during assembly. If you want to be 100% confident in your new motor without having to learn a new skill set, the cost of a new OEM short block assembly is a bargain. If you are doing new pistons, rods, bearings and rings, you will be close to the same cost after machine work and your time. But if you want to do it yourself - its not that hard if the machine shop did good work - just takes time and follow the FSM. If you run into a discrepancy, figure it out and fix it before you move on and don't skip a single step.

 

[OGBeno]

^^ Great advice and knowledge.

 

[manofthewoods]

^^ Great advice and knowledge.

I agree.
I did a complete rebuild 75k miles ago and throughly loved the project.
My 2 pennies re: the crankshaft. If there weren't any problems prior to the teardown, and all bearings look decent...
Leave the crankshaft alone. Get the exact same new OEM bearings, and live happily ever after.