1998-2002 4-Speed Auto (ATM) shift knob and indicator bezel removal

[cruiserpatch]

Figured I'd document this process since it's a bit detailed.

I know others have made videos about this (including myself) but the shift indicator bezel part is new-

I'll be adding details about that coming soon...

Tools needed:

• JIS screwdriver
• Flathead screwdriver or similar
• Depinning tool (very small pick or screwdriver will work)
• Sharpie/marker

Relevant parts:

• 4-speed auto rubber shift knob
• 4-speed shift lock release button cover

I'm doing this with the mechanism removed from the vehicle but it is easy to do in the truck as well. Chock the wheels and shift into 'N' or 'L' to access the 2x screws on the reverse side of the shift knob. You'll want to remove the bezel covering this mess (attached to the cupholders). Unplug the seat heaters, 'ECT PWR' and '2ND START' buttons, and you're home free.

Shift assy. removed from truck
JIS screw removed from reverse of knob (blue loctite present. do not use a No. 2 Phillips. It will strip the head)

Locate the white connector with the 'O/D OFF' switch wiring (white)
Unclip the connector from the shift housing

(continued)

 

[cruiserpatch]

Color one of the wires (I used blue) and the port on the connector. The polarity may not matter but I like to put things back where they were

Using a flathead or the like, unclip the safety lock from the back of the connector
Use a depinning tool or very small pick tool to remove the wires from the connector

Wires removed. Small slot is visible where plastic clip rests on contacts (holds them in the connector)

 

[cruiserpatch]

The shift button will pop out of the knob when it is lifted off the column. Guide the 'O/D OFF' wires through the column then you can unclip the shift indicator bezel from the assembly.

When reinstalling, I find it easiest to fish the two wire ends into the column at different spaces relative to each other. There's not much room at the bottom to try to pull them both out (or in) next to each other.

Revers process for installation.

Tired shift indicator bezel. Will refresh and develop a kit for DIY'ers shortly...

 

[cruiserpatch]

Measurements (so I don't lose my documentation)

Can barely read these rulers...

Back (bubbles/dashes): ~70mm long/tall
Front (PRND2L): ~74mm long/tall


Prototype stickers (thanks to Mike Lypp- a dedicated 100 owner who wants to give back)
~76mm

 

[Super77]

Awesome writeup. Are you saying there will be a R&R kit for the bubbled PRNDL panel? That would awesome since the part has been long NLA and used ones are typically just as bad as mine.

 

[cruiserpatch]

Yes the original part numbers are all delisted/NLA now.

35921-60170, 35921-60180, 35921-60190, 35921-60200, 35921-60210, 35921-60220

I'm getting quotes from my vinyl cutter to reproduce a batch of stickers in the shape of the 'PRND2L' lettering and dashes so that we can use the vinyl like a mask to spray around.

Order of operations will be:

1. remove bezel
2. apply forward cut vinyl sticker to the top of the bezel over the existing OEM lettering
3. sand away the OEM lettering sticker (bubbly and faded)
4. apply reverse cut vinyl sticker to the back/bottom of the bezel, lining it up with the forward cut sticker
5. spray paint black
6. remove vinyls once paint dries
7. polish bezel (if desired)
8. add white/green/orange transparent sticker behind/under the newly masked lettering for OE finish
9. reinstall bezel

Some owners have said that even after replacing the original bezel with a new OEM one, it only took a few years before the sticker started to bubble again (see photo/screenshot). This kit will be better than OEM quality since the lettering will be stenciled in with black paint

 

[AARONTLC]

Yes the original part numbers are all delisted/NLA now.

35921-60170, 35921-60180, 35921-60190, 35921-60200, 35921-60210, 35921-60220

I'm getting quotes from my vinyl cutter to reproduce a batch of stickers in the shape of the 'PRND2L' lettering and dashes so that we can use the vinyl like a mask to spray around.

Order of operations will be:

1. remove bezel
2. apply forward cut vinyl sticker to the top of the bezel over the existing OEM lettering
3. sand away the OEM lettering sticker (bubbly and faded)
4. apply reverse cut vinyl sticker to the back/bottom of the bezel, lining it up with the forward cut sticker
5. spray paint black
6. remove vinyls once paint dries
7. polish bezel (if desired)
8. add white/green/orange transparent sticker behind/under the newly masked lettering for OE finish
9. reinstall bezel

Some owners have said that even after replacing the original bezel with a new OEM one, it only took a few years before the sticker started to bubble again (see photo/screenshot). This kit will be better than OEM quality since the lettering will be stenciled in with black paint

View attachment 4080906

I will order the second you say they have arrived.

 

[nissanh]

Fantastic! While you are there, install new shift lever bushings located on the main shaft (shiny shaft on post-3: picture to right). If you want more, get new bushings to the shift lever linkage that connects to the main transmission body. I did all this to my 3rd gen 4runner and what a difference it made. I have already purchased these bushings and waiting to install all at once to get it done! will wait for your product to be in the market.

 

[cruiserpatch]

Fantastic! While you are there, install new shift lever bushings located on the main shaft (shiny shaft on post-3: picture to right). If you want more, get new bushings to the shift lever linkage that connects to the main transmission body. I did all this to my 3rd gen 4runner and what a difference it made. I have already purchased these bushings and waiting to install all at once to get it done! will wait for your product to be in the market.

The 3rd gen 4r shift levers wobble like crazy- those bushings are super cheap compared to those of the LX/LC

I’m sure it would make a difference but it’s not nearly as necessary as on the 4runner