'07 Timing chains need replacment?

[Scota4570]

2007 2WD 1GR-FE VVT-i, I have been having codes indicating cam to cam and crank not synced for several years. I replaced the passenger side VVT actuator about 5-years ago and no codes or check engine lights until recently. (The dealer told me the car was scrap!)

I recently replaced the driver's side VVT actuator and it made the check engine light pop up immediately. Oh yeah, 250,000 miles. The car is in excellent shape, runs great, no rust, and looks good.

I pulled the inspection plate on the cam tensioner. I have about 12 mm of cylinder showing and 11 notches exposed. I wish I could get a picture of it.

I assume it is time to replace the timing chain. I will pay someone. What is a reasonable California price? I do not intend to scrap the car. IF I pay ~$5000 for the job and get another few years I am way ahead on the financial aspect of it.

Modern cars a planned obsolesce junk, IMHO. I do not want the modern tech and tracking features. So, buying a new car is not for me.

 

[TahoeZ]

What code is thrown? My experience with the 1GR is that they develop enough slop/play to be audible but do not throw codes until over 300k. Could be premature wear but could also be another issue.

 

[Scota4570]

The current code is P0020, and P0020pd. The book says camshaft position actuator A - bank circuit malfunction.

I did check the part and I checked the wires coming to it. One side is ground and one is a couple of volts with the key off.

That is a new actuator made by Gates, driver's side. I may have two different brands of actuators. That one has resistance across the terminals of 4.3 Ohms. The passenger side measures 9.0 ohms. Do they have to agree? They are actuators, not sensors.

I checked the wired to the plugs on the sensors and actuators. I was thinking it broke something while mucking around. They all check out ok.

 

[TahoeZ]

P0020 refers to an open or out-of-spec electrical circuit. Since the code appeared immediately after replacing the actuator, I would replace that actuator with a different brand (OEM if possible) and clean the connector. I don't have the resistance specs for these actuators in front of me; perhaps they are in the FSM.

Also worth double checking oil condition and pressure. Most likely an electrical/actuator issue based on what you're saying, but the system is driven with oil pressure and low/dirty oil or clogged passaged/filter can also trigger this.

 

[Scota4570]

The oil is fresh synthetic appropriate to the vehicle.

I decided to let a shop look at it. IT is a shop that appreciates old toyotas. The chains are stretched. The tensioner is over expanded. I agreed to replace all the associated parts. IT will cost a lot, so be it.

Modern cars are mechanically, and electronically junk. They are also surveillance devices. This is the first significant repair costs in the 150K miles I have owned. This vintage of Toyota is the stuff of legend. Even at 250K miles I predict it will out last a new vehicle at a fraction of the cost of ownership. Hopefully it does not get crashed!

 

[Scota4570]

I hired the job done. New chains, sprockets, sensors, water pump, serpentine belt, and other stuff. The car runs good. No codes. The mileage seems a bit lower than before. The power is excellent. I suspect the VVT system is working at a lower threshold than before giving more power but lower mileage. Now for another 250K miles of driving.