$20 stops an FJ40

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outdoork9lady

outdoork9lady

Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Threads
6
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61
Location
Livermore, CA
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Disappointing weekend, but learned a lot. After tearing apart the Tranny and TC, replacing a new clutch, refinishing the flywheel, we decided to also replace the engine seal....while it's out and we do not know its history. Since we were replacing all gaskets and seals, to make sure that we got any and all leaks possible.

CAUTION: When inserting the main engine seal, tap tap tap, take your time!!! If you think you screwed it up, it's only $20!!!

We didn't follow this advice. We felt it didn't go in right and it got screwed up, so we stuck a bunch of silicone around it....just in case. :doh: that can act like a lube which doesn't help matters at all. Also the seal we got from SOR was smooth on the outside rather than with ridges....hmmm ANYHOOOOO, yep you guessed it....

We ran a test run around the neighborhood after putting EVERYTHING back together. In the morning did the same. Off we went to Hollister. About 30minutes down the freeway, POOF! It popped the seal :mad:

Got it towed back to my dad's shop (an instant 24" lift) and had to tear it all apart again. The new seal should be in today. Will look for the ridges on the side, NO silicone, NO grease, and tap tap tap even if it takes 15-20 mins


Waiting patiently for a tow, and the instant 24" lift.
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"I feel your pain"...Getting the tranny in/out is not fun.

The last time I did it, it took at least 20 minutes tapping the seal in... from the good old day the LCML list, I was told to used the OEM seal and even still have an extra seal laying around just in case the seal didn't come in right and got damage.
 
dont know where you are buying OEM seal for $20 but I would not waist my time putting anything but OEM in there....
 
It's OEM and I checked the pics on the other sites....looks the same. When I called around for prices, I got them from $60, $30 and 2 places with $20.
 
Look on the bright side.........it wasn't raining, snowing or night time. And, it looks like Lady, your k9, is very content!
 
The bright side is that we were not in the middle of Hollister which is about 1 1/2 hours away and then to get it off the trail ...... etc etc etc ....

It was just a lesson that the dang $20 part, that when it went in, we had our doubts that it was a good insert, and we second guessed, the should we or shouldn't we....and the bottom line for us.... if you have to pull all the stuff we had to for doubts, wait get another part and then go for it.

PATIENCE is my K9's virtue, not mine. But then I have always known that my K9 is smarter than me. That's why he leads on a search and rescue call out...not me. LOL

Just posting, as a reminder to all who have had the "uh oh" second thoughts, if it's not where you can get to it, in an instant.....replace it while everything is still sitting apart.
 
Can't argue, what I do not know. It came from SOR. Looks like other pics I've seen on this site. Bought 2 more seals, from 2 different places, same price as SOR, but no shipping costs involved. I'll see tonight what they look like. Bought a second one as a back up, in case it doesn't go in right again.
 
9031199065 $52.13

usually you can get it for about $40.. My bet is you have some BA or other aftermarket seal.

In this instance I would go nothing short of OEM.
 
Don't know how to do a link, but if you do a search for "Rear engine seal" there was a very recent thread with this title. In it is shown how to make an inexpensive driver for installing the rear main seal.
 
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