Desmog Help...RTM but not urgent

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Alright well she is done and runs!! I still need to do the T fitting for the HAC Advance and manifold but other than that she just need to have the timing done and then I am good to go..

After all this she was only idling at like 500rpm and pretty rough, but I account that to the timing needing to be adjusted. I did not take her for a run around the block as it is late and we live in an older neighborhood so I dont want to piss the neighbors off. However, I do have tomorrow off to mess with the timing so that is the first thing on my to do list. Mind you I said MY TO DO LIST, we will see what the wife has instore for me aside from taking the dog to the vet for his shots.

All in all it took me about 2 days worth of time from start to finish, I started about 10am on Saturday and it is 10pm now, but that doesn't count the prep I was doing on Friday night. The document provided by JimC, Borick, and MWeb was an INCREDIBLE help however there are some things I would add (though I am a process writer so that is what I do for a living really). I will gather my feedback and send to JimC, Borick, and MWeb to see if I can help compile a V3 of the Desmog an FJ60 document.

This has been a great adventure and for those that are thinking about doing, go for it.. you will get to know your truck that much better and the one thing I can say is map everything out before hand, run through what goes where, where everything is, etc and it will help immensely.
 
In this picture the white & black widget is a VCV, because it controls the flow of vacuum, based on vac signal from another source. Kinda like a relay or transistor in electric systems.

The epoxied bracket for the vac sensor may not work, because the vac sensor has to be grounded through the treads. Make a ground jumper by add a large ring terminal under the threds of the sensor, and run a wire to one of the bracket mounting screws. A foot of wire w/ large ring on either end.

8197037535_6b79c1f0e1_z.jpg


And this big fitting connects to a similar sized fitting on the side of the carb:

8197994003_690c07c84b_z.jpg
 
Thanks Jim. How will I know if the sensor is not working because of it now being grounded properly? I have to head to NAPA to grab a T fitting so I can finish the HAC advance line so I will grab one when I am there.

I did ended up finding that that line went to a similar under the carb and luckily wasn't throwing away a lot of lines (just holding on for that just-in-case scenario).
 
Ok so I took JimC's advice and ground the Fuel Cut-off to the firewall. Still have a slight diesel on shutdown after she has warmed up but I have yet to mess with the timing.

Just like the desmog document says, she idles real rough when first warming up. I actually have to give her some choke so that she will idle high enough to get the battery light to go off, she is idling right at 500rpm and it turns off around what would be 650rpm.

Here are some reference pics for the gurus, please take a look and make sure that everything looks right. I did take her for a short drive and she pulls excellent through all RPM range, actually cleaner than she has before!


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr


Untitled by renofizz, on Flickr
 
Ok got a video of her running, lets see if I can actually embed it this time..
I hear a tick and think that from what I have read that is due to an exhaust leak? There is a large clump of something on the down tube that I am assuming was a POs attempt a plugging a/the leak.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/E7TZCKegNFo?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Last edited:
Use the "youtube" tags:

{youtube}E7TZCKegNFo{/youtube} - Replace "{" with "[" and "}" with "]" and you get this:

 
The visible desmog routing looks good. :clap: :beer:

Your punch list:
Fix underhood exhaust leaks before you kill yourself.
Replace AIR manifold with allen plugs (perhaps eliminating a leak).
Install correct pulley on Alt.
Install correct belt on alt/fan.
Unkink top rad hose (shorten one or both legs of hose).
Install correct oil cooler hose on top of t-stat housing.
 
Thanks Jim, I do actually have a question for you... since one of my studs for the "J" pipe was much longer than the other, with the Toyota gasket I could one get one nut to thread. Should leave it like that or could that be the tick I am hearing? Would it be acceptable to use RTV instead of the gasket so that I can get both nuts to thread good and tight?

And funny you should mention the alternator, I was looking at that as I was reviewing my lines last night and thinking, that just doesn't look right because the belt fit the alt pulley just fine but in the crankcase pulley/harmonic balancer it looked SUPER small. So question is, where can I get the correct pulley?

Also, is this the correct hose you are talking about for the oil cooler on top of the thermostat housing? Toyota P/N #16261‑60011
 
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I can only advise installing the correct EGR stud in the manifold. One has either broken off too short, or been replaced with a shorter part.

The correct pulley is on the old alternator. Or on somebody else's junk alternator. Or available new from CDan.

Not the bypass hose.
This one:
HOSE, OIL COOLER 15777‑61011
 
Thanks Jim much appreciated... Any recommendations on how to get to the #6 air rail without damaging the air rail (hoping to save and get to another cruiser that may need it).
 
Hey Jim I got a question for you.. On the air rail where it inserts into the head there seems to be two different nuts, one closer to the head and the other just up at the air line as it comes down from the vertical rail. Could you, potentially, disassemble the air rail at the second nut with an open ended wrench then use the deep socket at the one that is on the head? Or is there a flared end that would not allow you to take the air rail off like that?
 
Thank you sir!! Looks like I need to grab some engine cleaner as it is pretty nasty up there and wouldnt want any of that crap getting in those rail holes on the head.
 
Jim got another question for you regarding the EGR J Pipe stud that was broken/bent....

On this SOR diagram is it item #75 that I would need to replace? And if so is this something that I can do without removing the manifold..

044E.gif
 
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