I'm Starting To Think That Watter Wetter Causes Residue? (1 Viewer)

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I have had good results w/ waterwetter in my cooling system. I use ethylene glycol green coolant (texaco full strength) and only use enough coolant with the waterwetter for my climate in NC (approx. 2/3 to 3/4 of a gal) with DI water. No residue in overflow and have been using for 3+years (two flushes).
 
Please remember that RWW is essentially "soap" without the suds...i.e. soap and RWW lower the water's surface tension.

By adding this "soap" you are cleaning the engine block better than just plain water can, thus the additional residue you see after adding RWW.
 
Just an update on WW. I spoke with Dave Granquest at Redline about it and using the Diesel WW. The difference between the regular (pink) WW and the Diesel is that the Diesel doesn't have anticorrosion additives as it is designed to be used with a 50/50 mix of coolant. Regular water wetter is designed to be used with a reduced mixture of coolant or water only for track use. Dave says the Diesel is fine to use with a 50/50 mix and to avoid potential additive clash I have switched to it.
 
OK dumb question here. WHAT is the watter wetter for...cooler temps, cooler A/C OR is it just to clean the radiator deposits?
airlaird
 
Wow, great follow up fellas, thanks. To me whether the reasons for residue are that the stuff is soap or that the gasoline product is powerfully anticorrosive or that the diesel product is proper for 50/50, etc, it really does not matter much as the stuff did almost nothing to cool the rig more than regular 50/50 did. Keep in mind I have an extremely accurate gauge that reads two degree incriments and I could not conclude that the RWW made any matter whatsoever on my operating temps. The question of how it affects temperatures, residues or gaskets is also completely concerning to me. For these two reasons I've therefore concluded its just one more thing that I dont want within my rig. HTH. :cheers:
 
Even though you are not seeing changes at the temperature gauge, water in many cases is still helping. In places like the head where there are small crevaces it can help water to make better contact and keep there from being localized hot spotting. I have found in the past on a BMW that I had trouble (M10 motor where the heads did not have the best cooling passages) with pinging on hot days, the water wetter was able to stop the pinging even though there was no change in the coolant temperature. On the 80 I have a trace ping off idle when it is hot and the Redline has helped with that also.
 
cary said:
Even though you are not seeing changes at the temperature gauge, water in many cases is still helping. In places like the head where there are small crevaces it can help water to make better contact and keep there from being localized hot spotting. I have found in the past on a BMW that I had trouble (M10 motor where the heads did not have the best cooling passages) with pinging on hot days, the water wetter was able to stop the pinging even though there was no change in the coolant temperature. On the 80 I have a trace ping off idle when it is hot and the Redline has helped with that also.
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Wow! Good to know. Cary what do you think about the RWW when mixed with Toyota Red, I know the chemistry is concerning. Any thoughts? Thanks! :cheers:
 
turbocruiser said:
Wow! Good to know. Cary what do you think about the RWW when mixed with Toyota Red, I know the chemistry is concerning. Any thoughts? Thanks! :cheers:
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That is why I use the diesel version (only use 1/3 of a bottle as it is designed for 10-15 gallon systems). It is only the water wetter additive, not the extra corrosion additives that the regular pink water wetter has that may cause problems with the toyota coolant. It is possible that you could still have some reaction, but given there are no corrosion additives, it should not be a problem.
 
I have been using 1 gal of Toyota red and 1 pint of Water wetter in a Ron Davis alm radiator for the last 18 month, no noted chemical reaction so far. Looks just like Kool-aid and my head gasket is still good the last time I looked.:eek: I talked with Ron Davis tech and Redline tech before doing it and they both thought it was a good set-up. It has been the coolest set-up so far for my SC 80.
 
why do some use only 1 gal of coolant when the cooling sys capacity is 15.2 quarts. Doesn't 2 gal give you 50/50 mix?
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
I have been using 1 gal of Toyota red and 1 pint of Water wetter in a Ron Davis alm radiator for the last 18 month, no noted chemical reaction so far. Looks just like Kool-aid and my head gasket is still good the last time I looked.:eek: I talked with Ron Davis tech and Redline tech before doing it and they both thought it was a good set-up. It has been the coolest set-up so far for my SC 80.
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Hey Phil is that RDR a one-off thing or is it the Man-A-Fre radiator built by RDR? What type of gauge do you have and what type of temps do you regularly run? Thanks man. :cheers:
 
turbocruiser said:
Hey Phil is that RDR a one-off thing or is it the Man-A-Fre radiator built by RDR? What type of gauge do you have and what type of temps do you regularly run? Thanks man. :cheers:
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Quote, bump, question again. Phil I'm curious about all this...the recent posts from RT make me think that when I replace my rad I'm gonna go with either the 93-94 factory one OR the RDR that you have...did you get this from MAF or did you send your sample directly to RDR to have made for you??? Thanks man. :cheers:
 
turbocruiser said:
Hey Phil is that RDR a one-off thing or is it the Man-A-Fre radiator built by RDR? What type of gauge do you have and what type of temps do you regularly run? Thanks man. :cheers:
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Sorry I was away for some cooler weather.:)

Sample was send to RDR 4/2002 by the PO.

I installed an AutoMeter WT gauge and it is very accurate.

The highest temp this summer was 215* when my wife was driving:eek: Durring the middle of the day in stop and go traffic - 105+ in the AZ sun.
The other day on a late afternoon lake trip I ran 195* with the sun out on the way back 1/2 later with the sun down I ran 180*, AC on both ways.

NOTE: I have not yet changed the BIG POS TRD SC'r fan.:mad: I have done a lot of little mods to the cooling system and it is in perfect condition.

HTH
 
sportbiker929 said:
why do some use only 1 gal of coolant when the cooling sys capacity is 15.2 quarts. Doesn't 2 gal give you 50/50 mix?
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Pure water is a much better conductor of heat than antifreeze. It is generally recognized that straight water will cool more effectively than any combination of water and antifreeze, despite antifreezes marginal increase in boiling temps. So, the old adage of "if some is good, then more is better" does not apply with respect to antifreeze. There will still be plenty of anti-corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricant even with a 20% ratio of antifreeze. Some of us that drive in climates where freezing isn't an issue run a weaker mix to take advantage of the increased thermo transfer, better cooling.
 
Tools R Us said:
Pure water is a much better conductor of heat than antifreeze. It is generally recognized that straight water will cool more effectively than any combination of water and antifreeze, despite antifreezes marginal increase in boiling temps.
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In NASCAR they don't have to worry about freezing temps. They run regular tap water in their $80,000 motors. fact.
 
Just remember if you go to a lower water/coolant mix that you are going to use up the corrosion inhibitors faster. In order to minimize potential damage your flush/coolant changes should be shortened to 1 year.
 
concretejungle said:
In NASCAR they don't have to worry about freezing temps. They run regular tap water in their $80,000 motors. fact.
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True, but it probably has something to do with the fact that antifreeze is not allowed, due to it making the track slick when released on the track in their crash fests,:whoops: err races.:D Most racers don't need much in the way corrosion protection, the motors are drained and/or pulled between races. They are mainly looking for max cooling and run water with an additive package like water wetter.

cary said:
Just remember if you go to a lower water/coolant mix that you are going to use up the corrosion inhibitors faster. In order to minimize potential damage your flush/coolant changes should be shortened to 1 year.
Click to expand...

Yep, less coolant means less inhibitors, you can add inhibitors but I prefer to just flush more often.
 
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