Recent content by TexLexican

Here’s the Tundra fuel pump referenced above.

That burp following when the pump stops is normal

What buttons are pressed at start up to get the codes?

No complaints here but I take it easy on the road.

changed the brushes on mine since it’s easy and cheap after removal. It’s either original or over 10 years old and works. For those with oil and gunk in them, is there a good way to clean them?

I’m pretty sure you can pull the fuse also

Wave, if time allows, I would go ahead and replace the bushings while you’re in there. I wish I had while replacing the ball joints.

Definitely follow the freezer advice…

Only way to get the OEM bushings is to buy the whole rack. With the polys your steering will feel a little tighter and you’ll feel a bit more road vibration. I wonder if you can drill small holes in the poly bushings for more give??

I removed mine just as added protection, but some people will tape cardboard to the radiator to protect the fins and then proceed. Removing the fan clutch will probably be a pain. Also removing the hood latch will make life on your ribs much easier while reaching over and into the engine bay.

I changed out my upper and lower ball joints while I was in there but wish I had dealt with my tie rods and upper and lower control arm bushings as well.

The cargo d rings are located too far from the seat where a lot of car seat anchor straps can’t reach them.

I’m pretty sure the driver’s side has a lip. https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/proposed-addition-to-faq-front-differential-seals.1289469/

Is there a shoulder that prevents the seal from going in further? Like I said, one side is easy to mess up since you can push it in too far. It’s been a while but they should sit flush.

I forget which side but one seal goes in easier than the other since you can push it in past flush. Double check the part numbers as well.