Recent content by moremazda

So, results.......after 1.5years and 8927 miles on the haltech, average mileage improved by 1.24 GPM.......at this rate once I reach about 100k I'll break even on the install 🤣......assuming gas stays at $3.80/gal Here's the data 92 total recorded fill ups 8927 miles on the haltech 14.4 mpg on...

This is my current tune file. The truck is still stock, no fuel mods no turbo, still running the stock catalytic converter. I have about 5k or 6k miles on this tune. Some of the long term fuel trims are maxed out but for the most part functions completely stock. I have been working cold start...

Yup, bone stock other than the things to make the haltech plug in.

Sometimes it won't come off of it until I do something. But I have found a thing. Haltech has the number of IAC steps in the base map ( and their 1fz setup page) set to 240. Well it looks like the IAC logic puts the IAC at that full position during cranking. It doesn't care too much about the...

nope that's not it. This seems like the IAC running to full stroke at cranking, and then the ECU going into a decal cut state that disables IAC control and then it just sits there. While it's happening I can put in a different value for the IAC step count and it kicks the ecu out of the decal...

I did not know that. I'll go look for it now.

I do want to post a summary of the parts used. My rig is a '94 and I made everything completely plug and play.......other than having to trim the back of the glove box to clear the ECU header plug, no other modification where made to the rig. There are three parts to un-plug and three stock...

So I've been struggling with an engine rpm flare on hot start. It is related to IAC function. The IAC shows that on start the engine state is in "Decel Mode", my guess is that the IAC is full open since without a time based rev limit it runs straight to 3k rpm. And that's basically the only...

Like a champ

So figured out the solid state relay problem. It's the presence of the driver from the Haltech in the circuit. A pull up resistor needs to be placed from 12v to the haltech driver. I am using Injector #7 and #8, and Ignition #7 and #8 for the transmission control. Found a random 1.5kohm floating...

Thank you, thank you! I the logic I have in the haltech for the solenoid operation is the same as you have. The first thing I did was disable the st output and you are right nothing changed. Best I can guess is that it acts like accumulator solenoid on the A342, but not maybe, since it is wired...

closest thing to a real data sheet I have found so far......and its not the same p/n https://myhellalights.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/H41773001-Data-Sheet.pdf

Thank you for that, confirms where I was going. Now to figure out the resistor. I just measured up the voltage across the shift solenoids and it was floating from 3.5 volts to 10volts. the measured resistance on the solenoids in 30ohm, so 300ma isn't enough to turn off the solenoid. Any idea...

Ok so testing the relay with a fuel pump, it works just as it should. and the voltage on the load pin pull s to zero.......help out my dumb ME mind. Does this mean the solenoids don't have enough resistance of their own correct? So I need to add a parallel resistor to the solenoid to make them...

It will certainly work with traditional relays just fine. As far as data sheets this all I have found so far, in addition to lingenfelter PDF I found above