Recent content by Lead Head

Also, the holes do not go into the gas tank. They just go into the metal ring, which is then welded to the tank. That makes cleaning/tapping the holes quite difficult.

When you look at the performance testing of the time, the 60/62 Series actually has pretty good braking performance - even by today's standards. The issue is that all of these trucks are now 30+ years old, and many have very degraded braking systems. If you renew everything - new calipers, new...

The screws for the fuel pump are M5 x 0.8, but the ones for the level sending unit are M4 x 0.7.

I live in the heart of the salt belt. In 2013 I scrapped a 91 80 series that had doors fenders and quarter panels that were just as (if not more rotten) than my '89 '62. They all rot once the paint is compromised.

No, not really. They rust just the same as the others.

Chock wheels, shift vehicle into neutral, rotate rear driveshaft back and forth. See if the rear axle has a lot of play. Another possibility (and really probably most likely) is worn splines on your transfercase gear/output shaft. Edit: I forgot, there is also the slip-joint on the driveshaft...

Sounds like they blew the front diff up and either gutted the locking hubs or removed the axle shafts (or the axle shafts are broken off in the diff). Since the pinon doesn't turn at all, you need to start by taking the differential apart. Unfortunately there is no diff cover on the front axle...

I got mine from Cruiserparts.net. Price was okay. They did replace the inner c-channel portions at the back, and the frame was overall in pretty good shape.

Yeah, just part out a vehicle that typically sells for $20,000-$25,000 these days because of a $5,000 engine. I swear some of these posts are just people fishing for offers for their vehicles.

Looks like it's a "line pressure tube" according to my service manual. But it doesn't describe their purpose.

You also have to think about the intended purpose of the vehicle: Start up, quickly get to wherever it needs to go, pump water, go home. It likely wasn't intended to go on long drives while hauling gear, or extended off-road excursions. The fact it has an oil-temp gauge (where is it located?)...

The in-tank cooler on the radiator removes a tremendous amount of heat before it gets to the auxiliary cooler. You will definitely need that cooler in order to keep everything cool enough without the radiator cooler. I hope the fan is thermostatic, as you don't want to overcool the transmission.

I personally wouldn't delete the engine oil cooler on an FJ-62. It was put there for a reason. The engine is hauling around a lot more weight than the 2F originally did in an FJ40

If the diagram doesn't show the spacer - than it's probably not supposed to be there! Sometime to keep in mind too, is that that the engine IS supposed to sit crooked in the chassis, with the front of the motor closer to one side of the vehicle than the back of the motor. I'm not sure why this...

The voltage regulation on older vehicles is pretty simple and stupid. Basically it has a set system voltage it wants to achieve, and it will push the alternator as hard as it can to achieve that voltage. Once that voltage is achieved, it reduces alternator current to the exact amount necessary...