Needs to have intact splines on the back of the mount hole so it won't slip on the spindle, mine is stripped. Willing to spend 25 including shipping to zip 22180 or 40 for a front pair with good splined ends.
Disregard, bought new ones.
I can't see a shop charging less than 1000 to do a decent job, it is some serious work. I recommend finding a friend or friend with a lift and then you don't have to crawl under it. Rustoleum is the cheap stuff but if I had access to a lift I would try eastwood or por throughout. The rustoleum...
Yeah I figured, didn't even want to use seafoam, heard it damages seals. I have a new EGR valve and ordered the pipe, modulator, vsv valve and union nut from toyota parts deal but not too confident it will be delivered because other sites show the pipe to be discontinued. Maybe a good idea to...
I crawled under mine with a drill and wire attachment, got about 50% cleaned off and sprayed it with rustoleum rust converter. two or three more sessions needed to finish, I will wash the inside of the chassis through the factory holes and try to use the eastwood internal frame coating for that.
My EGR was definitely clogged and I had a rough idle, CEL with EGR codes. Yesterday after some highway driving above 80mph it turned off and hasn't come back in a day, idle is now smooth. I did not try any cleaner except some seafoam in the tank but that was a few tanks ago. Has this ever...
Got it in. Since I had already removed the old one, pulling was not an option but I tried cutting the old one and reinserting to use as a 'snake' but it wouldn't go in. Finally took out the ECU and inserted the new one in through the cab quite easily, then discovered that two of the screws...
Might try again with tape, I've looked at repair manuals for the 80 online and no mention of hood cable anywhere. It probably does go behind the battery box, maybe more to the side than under it and back up again.
My KZJ78 overseas had this issue after a batch of bad fuel and the drain valve under the lift pump (under the fuel filter) was dripping and this caused pressure loss. Started better with a full tank vs low fuel levels. There was an O ring in that valve that we replaced and it stopped the leak.
Would appreciate some advice on installing a new hood cable. I tried to route the new cable through the firewall grommet but it won't go in from there the engine side, tried taping to the old one inside the cab prior to removing the old one but it got stuck in that ridiculously small grommet...