To LC again or Not?

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Joined
Feb 9, 2009
Threads
35
Messages
244
Location
Biloxi, MS
Hey guys, I started my LC obsession with a 62 a couple of years. I sold it this past summer, oil spill, 80 mile commute (to school!!) and the harsh OME heavy ride was killing me.

So, I've always loved the 80s and found one by chance locally on Craigslist. I'm a grad student so not having a lot of money is an understatement. I need some advice.

'92 LC Tan, 229k, exterior is dented on each corner, the front bumper is pushed in to the point of the lower part of the grill being smashed slightly. One tail light is smashed the other cracked. Running boards rusted. Sunroof works though. Mismatched rims
Interior: front seats are pretty bad off, jump seats are missing, pass rear window doesn't work. Seller said the AC causes it to overheat (possible cause?)
Engine seemed to be running fine, possibly better than my previous 3FE, trans shifted fine.

A couple things I wasn't sure of. The CDL. The 62 of course was different and that was my first/only 4wd. I tested it out in Low and it seemed to engaged (light came on) within a couple seconds of driving, slow. I put it back in High and hit the CDL switch to turn it off, but the light stayed on. Drove less than a mile and the light stayed on. Parked, shut it down, started it, moved. Stayed on.
I have to admit I have no clue how they operate. I did search and find that it's ok to engage the CDL at slow speeds, but I was stopped in neutral when engage/disengaging.

Also, there was major clicking/chatter in the front end when turning. I assume, after a search it's the Birfields. But, a couple of questions.
How much are the parts for a rebuild? I saw someone asking about their pricing and looked like $800?
At what point must they be replaced and what's that cost? Could they be so worn to need a replacement?

The seller has owned it since ~160k and said no major work so the top end probably hasn't been rebuilt.

And finally he's got it listed for $1200. I'd feel much better paying a bit less. I won't be hardcore wheeling, more expedition type. Ultimately bumpers, locked and dieseled would be the idea.

Thanks and sorry for being so long winded!
 
CDL will lock automatically once you place the transfer case into L, then unlock once you take it back out.

The button on your dash will lock the center diff while you're in high range, in essence putting you in "4-Hi"

When the button is depressed, it will lock your center diff and keep it locked regardless of whether you're in low or high. One thing I noticed the other day is that my button actually got stuck in... something to look at. It's one of those "clicked in=on, clicked out=off" (if that makes sense...) buttons.

I had to use a screwdriver to get mine to pop back out.

That being said I'm sure there could be any number of reasons the CDL isn't unlocking... just sharing my experience :cheers:
 
Thanks, that makes sense.

Any opinions on whether $1200 would be a decent deal and baseline it as time progresses or should I just start looking for a locked 93+ that's in better condition?
 
To each his own. However... going from an FJ60 to FJ62 to FZJ80 I would give you this advice: hold out for a rig with a 1FZ-FE. You won't regret it. Locked or not, you'll love the extra power!
 
djsolution, thanks that is something I'll keep in mind. Driving the 62 did give me a slower perspective on life. Although, I was hoping that would give me more incentive to convert it to a diesel. I'm a diesel man at heart, I make my own biodiesel for my VW. Cross country trips for free are just amazing!
 
Dents and dings/cracked lenses ect is all cosmetic. The most expensive thing you have mentioned is the Birfs which if money is tight then you can strip/clean and reassemble on opposite sides, this will give you a bit more life until the pennies are saved up. The early versions of the 80 have small brakes along with a smaller wheel/tyre combo, unsure about your market but the front and rear lockers were not available until late 93 IIRC along with bigger brakes/wheels/ABS. Is it worth holding out a little longer for a slighter newer vehicle with better specification and more powerful engine?

Just my 2 euros

regards

Dave
 
IMHO, if everything vital is running fine, that price isn't too bad at all (much lower than you'd pay out here).

In reply to a couple of the guys saying hold out for a newer model, that's not the worst idea, depending on what you want. The 91/92 models are definitely Land CRUISErs - you're never going anywhere fast. And if you ever want to tow, maybe reconsider.

Also (hate to be the voice of reason), if you're strapped enough for cash that $1200 is troubling you, it might not be the best time to buy another LC. (Just based on what I've had to do to mine, and will be doing.) Think of how all the "little" repairs build up - belts, tires (not so little), headlights, etc. Not to mention the fuel economy.

...Just my OWN two pesos...

Either way, good luck! :flipoff2:
 
We all need a voice of reason every now and then but I want another LC :flipoff2:

I know it'll nickel and dime me, that's the reason I'm considering waiting for one in better condition. But, if I can talk him down to $800 or there about I think I'm going to go for it. Hell, I just need to get back on the dirt!
I'll have my VW for getting me around daily.
If he doesn't take less than a grand I'm going to pass on it.

Thanks all!
 
Ah well my bad, mobile in the UK normally means the car could be stolen and the seller does not want to give a 'static' number in case of come backs, thanks for the enlightenment,

regards

Dave
 
Went to look at this Cruiser after the advise on the 93+
1995 Toyota Land Cruiser

Looks pretty good minus the valve cover gasket oil leak. No lockers though.
What y'all think?

If you're interested in this Cruiser hit up Land Speeder here on Mud as he's going to be in Mobile for the next week and may be able to check it out.
 
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