TB, IAC, MAF and PCV clean/replace done (1 Viewer)

[bpenn1980]

Before I broke my truck on Sunday, I did a car off throttle body, IAC and MAF cleaning and inspection. Also replaced the PCV and grommet.

After I get the truck back in action and drive it around for a week or so we'll see if this cleaning helped my high start up idle and low warm idle in Drive. For 2 days, ran beautifully, then I killed it, but thats a different thread.

Here's a few tips on the process:
1) Use foam ear plugs to plug the coolant hoses.
2) The lowest of the three cables attached to the TB is easier to reattach before bolting the TB back on.
3) Put the lower TB bolts in their holes before putting the TB back on. Its really hard to get them in with a socket extension if they arent already in their holes once the TB is on the car. (I dropped one and had to remove the TB again to get it)
4) For the PCV removal, I used electrical tape reinforced with a piece of wire to plug hole under the grommet to prevent pieces of the grommet from falling in. Worked great.

Pictures:

 

[bpenn1980]

more pics

More pics, including the little thing I used on the PCV:

 

[MR.SIGINT]

Good advice! I did this same work last week after tiring of my high idle. Not sure if any or all of it contributed but my high idle went from 18-1900 rpms down to 1200 when cold. After 25-30 start-ups and shutdowns over the past 8 or 9 days my idle remains at 1200 when cold. Hopefully it will stay that way.

For putting the lower tb bolts back on I used small pieces of electrical tape to hold the bolts in the socket until I got them threaded in-- then just pulled the tape off. I would also recommend replacing the TB gasket and IAC valve o-ring instead of using the old stuff. Replacing the IAC screws with hex key screws would be wise as well since the phillips are prone to stripping (especially the bottom one).

 

[bpenn1980]

Good advice! I did this same work last week after tiring of my high idle. Not sure if any or all of it contributed but my high idle went from 18-1900 rpms down to 1200 when cold. After 25-30 start-ups and shutdowns over the past 8 or 9 days my idle remains at 1200 when cold. Hopefully it will stay that way.

My start up idle hit 1,400rpm for about 1/2 second, then fell to 1,200rpm. Sounds much better than ~1,800rpm first thing in the morning! I didnt get my annoying 300rpm idle while stopped either. I'm hoping a simple cleaning got both of 'em.

 

[bpenn1980]

I would also recommend replacing the TB gasket and IAC valve o-ring instead of using the old stuff. Replacing the IAC screws with hex key screws would be wise as well since the phillips are prone to stripping (especially the bottom one).

Agreed. I replaced the TB gasket, but didnt get a new IAC o-ring or MAF gasket. Probably not a bad idea to replace all and switch to hex screws on IAC as you say.

 

[Tapage]

Gread pics .. thanks for this thread .. my TB it's clean ( or at least looks clean ) I didn't get my PCV yet, but when I get in my hands I will replace it .. only a little scared with some tales that I've been read here about it ..

I bought a little vis grip just to help me with the lower screw at the IAC ... ( pain to pull out )

 

[MR.SIGINT]

Gread pics .. thanks for this thread .. my TB it's clean ( or at least looks clean ) I didn't get my PCV yet, but when I get in my hands I will replace it .. only a little scared with some tales that I've been read here about it ..

I bought a little vis grip just to help me with the lower screw at the IAC ... ( pain to pull out )

The needle nosed vice grips will help in the event you strip the bottom screw. I don't think I would have stripped it if I pulled off the TB before trying to remove the IAC. If you plan to pull the TB off you should be able to get the screw out with a good quality #2 phillips. All in all I am actually glad I stripped the screw as it led me to have to pull the TB off at which time I found two clogged ports. Cost me 24 bones for the gasket, IAC o ring, and 2 new screws. Would have been less if I ordered through Dan but I was in a time crunch.

 

[bpenn1980]

Gread pics .. thanks for this thread .. my TB it's clean ( or at least looks clean ) I didn't get my PCV yet, but when I get in my hands I will replace it .. only a little scared with some tales that I've been read here about it ..

I bought a little vis grip just to help me with the lower screw at the IAC ... ( pain to pull out )

The needle nosed vice grips will help in the event you strip the bottom screw. I don't think I would have stripped it if I pulled off the TB before trying to remove the IAC. If you plan to pull the TB off you should be able to get the screw out with a good quality #2 phillips. All in all I am actually glad I stripped the screw as it led me to have to pull the TB off at which time I found two clogged ports. Cost me 24 bones for the gasket, IAC o ring, and 2 new screws. Would have been less if I ordered through Dan but I was in a time crunch.

Yep, I pulled the whole TB and I'd do it that way again. Got the IAC off easy with a #2 or #3 phillips screwdriver, cant remember.

With it off you can clean it real well with carb cleaner and spray air through all the small ports etc. I felt it was very thorough and it still didnt take too long.

 

[Tapage]

Thanks .. I will take pics when I do this job .. since I'm a newbie in gassers ..

 

[bpenn1980]

Ok, so the truck is idling great. Cold start up idle is 1,600 rpm for about 1/2 second, then down to 1,100 - 1,200 rpm and settles just below 1,000 rpm as the temp gauge starts to creep up.

Doesnt idle low when warm anymore either. It was idling at ~300rpm while at stop lights and such, better now.

Unfortunately I now have a Code 71. The fun just doesnt stop.

So, in light of my current situation, I would follow the below link to get this job done as well while the TB is off the truck.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/12498-egr-problem.html

Peace