Intermittant starter (1 Viewer)

[cooldry]

My starter was just replaced 2 months ago (after-market per PO). Since then, there were two occasions where the LC wouldn't start. All the electrical works fine. Only happened after driving it. Would have to wait for about an hour or so and it started up fine again.


When I turn the key, all the electricals light up, but no turning of the engine.

When I listen carefully, I can here a click.


Did a search but there sooo different possibilities for my small brain to handle. Originally thought it was starter contact, but since it has a new starter, I would think I can rule that out.


thanks for any help.

 

[100 TD]

A click can be caused by a bad electrical connection on the starter or battery terminal or cable, or the contacts in the starter, or the brushes, or the starter relay. Pull the starter relay out and pop it's cover off and have a look for burnt contacts. Check all battery and cable connections are tight including ground cables. Was the started replaced wit a reconditioned unit or new. There should be a carry over warranty on the starter in case it is bad. Lots of other possibilities though.

 

[Beowulf]

Pull the starter relay out and pop it's cover off and have a look for burnt contacts.

The OP says the truck has a "new" (reman'd) starter. Unless I'm missing something, US spec petrol 80s do not have a starter relay.

-B-

 

[cooldry]

A click can be caused by a bad electrical connection on the starter or battery terminal or cable, or the contacts in the starter, or the brushes, or the starter relay. Pull the starter relay out and pop it's cover off and have a look for burnt contacts. Check all battery and cable connections are tight including ground cables. Was the started replaced wit a reconditioned unit or new. There should be a carry over warranty on the starter in case it is bad. Lots of other possibilities though.

Thanks for the input. I'll go and check all the connections first and see if it happens again. So far, it's only happened twice over a two month period so it's impossible to intentionally duplicate. The starter was replaced with a new unit and has a lifetime warranty. The PO gave me the paperwork for it.

 

[Atoyot1031]

When in doubt, check for a bad ground as well.

More than often, that is the ghost in the beast...

 

[100 TD]

The OP says the truck has a "new" (reman'd) starter. Unless I'm missing something, US spec petrol 80s do not have a starter relay.

-B-

Yeah I forgot about the "No starter relay" so all the rest still goes plus the park/neutral switch if it's an auto

 

[tusk74]

Check to see if it starts in Neutral. Mine did the same thing and it was a bad Neutral Safety Switch. The switch can easily be bypassed, but you lose cruise control.

 

[OZCAL]

Might be a shift lever issue too. Move the shifter around a bit (in Park, foot firmly on brake) while the key is turned to see if it engages. Mine (Oz 80) had the same intermittent symptoms - I wacked the shifter a few times and it went away.

 

[Skillet]

My rebuilt OEM starter started doing that. I have someone turn the key while I tap the starter with a hammer, or wrench or rock.

Usually only happens to me when the engine has been running a while and is quite warm.

 

[cooldry]

Okay, here is an update to what's been going on. Since my original post, it's happened two more times. What's interesting is that if I jump the LC, it starts no problem. What I did was to first jump with just a battery. It would not start. I found it only works if I jump from an installed battery from another car. So I thought about it. Is it possible that it would be a ground wire issue and I'm using the ground from the other car? If so, which ground would be most likely to cause this? If there are others having this problem, you might want to try the battery test just to see if it's similar to my issue. Hopefully, it'll put you on the right track.

 

[EricE]

Okay, here is an update to what's been going on. Since my original post, it's happened two more times. What's interesting is that if I jump the LC, it starts no problem. What I did was to first jump with just a battery. It would not start. I found it only works if I jump from an installed battery from another car. So I thought about it. Is it possible that it would be a ground wire issue and I'm using the ground from the other car? If so, which ground would be most likely to cause this? If there are others having this problem, you might want to try the battery test just to see if it's similar to my issue. Hopefully, it'll put you on the right track.

No, the only difference is that a battery sits at 12.5V and a battery in a car (with the car running) sits at 14.4V. So it is the extra volts that is making work. I can't explain it though.

 

[schlaker]

Did you clean battery terminals and conecters. It doesn't take much resistance to lose enough voltage to cause starting problems. The magenetic contactor could be sticking, did this start before or after the new starter was installed?

 

[cooldry]

Okay, I guess that puts me back at square one. I'm going to go ahead and swap out the fusible links. Maybe change out the starter just to cover all bases.

 

[fj80psi]

Check the NSS plug on the trans. My silicone water seal was not properly seated in the plug. Someone had the water seal all jacked up, then forced the plug onto the nss. I wiggled the plug and it would start. Same symptom as you. It stopped working with jumper cables intermittantly. It was making a partial contact sometimes. Just an idea.

 

[AK Crush]

What is the NSS plug?

 

[TOY350]

I keep having the same problem after it's warm. Last time I popped the hood and wiggled the negative side of the battery cable and it started right up. I proceeded to tighten the negative and positive cables to solve the problem, but it happened again. It has never happened when cold and after popping the hood for a few it starts right up. The PO had the starter replaced at Toyota at 100K and I'm at 120K now. I will check the connections at the starter to make sure they are tight and the NSS as suggested.

Next time it happens I will try:

Shifting to Neutral and trying to start
Tapping on starter while trying to start

I will do this without opening the hood, if those attempts don't work I will pop the hood let it cool for a few and try again.

I will be reporting back sooner than later I'm sure.

 

[concretejungle]

I was having the same issue. I replaced the starter with a remaned from Cdan. Knock-on-wood, no issues since.

 

[TOY350]

Anyone have a ballpark an OEM reman starter? I'm pulling mine and having a shop test it, they quoted $140 for a complete rebuild if needed.

 

[450 DUDE]

Same here , I was having starter issues.
I would hook up the battery charger and it would fire.
If you held your tongue a certain way it would start
I would cross my fingers every time I went to start

So I said screw it dropped the 230.00 (or close) and CD hooked me up with a reman.

This story ends well..........
Not problems and aint skeered to turn the key any more, money well spent!


ken

 

[AK Crush]

I just picked up an OEM reman for $99.53 from Factory Motor Parts. $34 core charge, which I may just rebuild it and keep for a spare.

Cheers, Dennis