Cheap back seat headrest mod for FJ60 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Threads
8
Messages
123
Location
Seven Lakes, NC
Section 1.

Parts
Set of headrests from wrecked Lexus LX 330 (pick your vehicle, this one was what I found on Ebay for less than $35 shipped!)
Gray ABS tubing from local hardware store
Caps for ABS tubing
Rubber washers (O rings) to fit the posts on the headrests, creates a stop for the gray ABS tubing
2x4 x 48” length.
Black bedliner spray
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Section 2

Measure and mark your 2x4 (I used clamps to mount it to the back of the seat, measure, test and mark where I wanted to drill.)
Measure and mark your ABS tubing, either tube cutter or hack saw
(I cut mine 3” but I would suggest you test what you want since this is somewhat of a variable.)
I used 2x4 lumber because I had it available and I needed the depth the 2x4 offered to get a better angle for the headrests. (The stock headrests are parallel with the seat back, however, ever notice how your head never strikes the headrests for this angle? Today’s headrests have a better angle to them to give you good head support. To replicate this angle for the back seats on my FJ60, by using the 2x4 you can drill the support holes for the headrests at an angle. I used a drill press with the diagonal. Basically, geometrically speaking, drilled on the line of the hypotenuse of the right angle triangle.
(As a friend of mine reminded me, I know, redneck alert: how many objects in your vehicle were built in the wood shop? Oh well, I grew up in the south (US) and I am a redneck, maybe a well educated redneck but nevertheless, well you get the picture . . . anyway)

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Section 3

At that point, assemble your parts. Hold into place with clamps to be sure it is what you want, and if it is, disassemble, I used a black spray on primer and black bedliner spray on the wood to give it a little more protection. Screwed the 2x4 into the existing holes where the trim was attached, and insert the headrests.
Done. For less than $50.
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Things I wanted to accomplish . . . .
Headrests in the rear that match the front . . .done
Headrests at an angle that work! . . . done
Inexpensive modification . . . done
Headrests are easily/quickly removable so I can still fold down my seat . . . done

Anyway, hope that helps . . . otherwise I've wasted a good 30 minutes of my life . . .:cool:
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Safety footnote to this mod. . .

I probably need to add a piece of flat steel to the back of the 2x4. Just thinking through the process, headrests help provide protection with a rear impact. The give point for this would be the soft pine 2x4. With a piece of flat steel on the back of the 2x4, I would have the angle from the 2x4 and the flat steel would prohibit the failure of the headrests with the rear impact. You want the give to be in the headrests, but with wood only it may collapse without absorbing enough energy to give you the rear impact protection. Calling all engineers, any thoughts here from a professional opinion?
 
Looks great! That's definitely an awesome cheap mod.

As to your safety concerns, they're better than nothing, which is what 99% of our 60's have!

Maybe if you switched to a flat steel plate with the headrest tubes welded on at the same locations and angles as the holes in the 2x4.

The plate could be wide and tall enough to attach to the trim points all along the top of the seat and down the side a bit. The plate could even have sort of upside-down U shape (when viewed from the tailgate) to it so that it can attach to all the trim screw points down the side.

Even more involved would be to weld the plate to the steel seat frame. Or you could weld nuts to the seat framing and then screw the steel plate with welded headrest tubes into the seat framing using bolts and washers threaded through the welded nuts.

Many levels of strength, but yours is still better than nothing!
 
Link added to $50 mods.
 
Subtle humor~
 

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