Advice for installing Longfields (1 Viewer)

[smdennis]

Hi all...

I am installing some longfields on a 75 FJ40 front axle (also upgraded to FJ60 front knuckles, discs). The inside of the axle housing has to be ground out a bit to accept the larger longfields. My problem is that I'm having a hard time telling when I've ground out enough material. Initially i couldn't even slide the longfields in, but after grinding , they fit, but it is still difficult to tell whether they are still touching the inside of the axle housing when the knuckle is turned all the way one way or the other and I spin the axle. To check, I have put the spindle on, but there is still a little 'in and out' play on the axle and it's more difficult to turn the axle when the knuckle is turned. It turns easily when the knuckle is straight.

Does anyone have any advice on this?

thanks,
scott

 

[e rock]

There is plenty of operating room once they're in the knuckle ball. The only reason grinding is necessary is to actually get them in there. The in-out play you mentioned should be minimal once the outer clip is installed; the machined shoulder of the joint should be snug up against the bronze bushing in the spindle.

Note: be sure to do some test fitting with the Longfield actually attached to the inner shaft before you put the grinder away. I ground mine out to fit the birf's bell, but I was a little off-center and it wouldn't go in once I got the shaft attached, so I had to take a little more off the top of the ball.

 

[Chop Shop]

remove the inner axle when fitting the long to the housing.

Then you wont feel the very tight birf when its turned.

Take the birf off of the inner axle and then put it in the spindle and put the spindle on.

Clean the inside of the ball/housing and them wipe yellow gear paint or grease on the birf bell and install it and turn it. It will leave a yellow or grease mark where it needs to be ground.

I have put in over 30 pairs of longs and never once had to grind a housing tho. I have found most guys grinding it cant get them installed cuz its a tight fit. Or they have the knuckle way off from centered when rebuilding trunnions or installing hysteer.

Once in they fit fine. It is very hard to get the inner axle to "tip up" and feed into the diff gears when the birf wont move cuz of the tight fit.

Allot of times if it needs to be ground allot, it is an indicator of a bent front housing.
I usually grind a little angled edge on the inner axle so it will slide itself into the diff side gear easily.

 

[Chop Shop]

but I was a little off-center and it wouldn't go in once I got the shaft attached, so I had to take a little more off the top of the ball.

This scares the s*** out of me. Ever look at how little material is put there by toyota? Not much steel holding the trunnion bearing races in.

It would have went in perfectly fine if the bottom edge of the inner shaft (where it goes into the diff) had a small ramp/chamfer ground onto it.

The longs inner shafts have a very small chamfer on the edge of the splines that needs to be chamfered just a hair more to feed the shaft easily in.

 

[inkpot]

remove the inner axle when fitting the long to the housing.

Then you wont feel the very tight birf when its turned.

Take the birf off of the inner axle and then put it in the spindle and put the spindle on.

Clean the inside of the ball/housing and them wipe yellow gear paint or grease on the birf bell and install it and turn it. It will leave a yellow or grease mark where it needs to be ground.

I have put in over 30 pairs of longs and never once had to grind a housing tho. I have found most guys grinding it cant get them installed cuz its a tight fit. Or they have the knuckle way off from centered when rebuilding trunnions or installing hysteer.

Once in they fit fine. It is very hard to get the inner axle to "tip up" and feed into the diff gears when the birf wont move cuz of the tight fit.

Allot of times if it needs to be ground allot, it is an indicator of a bent front housing.
I usually grind a little angled edge on the inner axle so it will slide itself into the diff side gear easily.

Howdy! I agree with your procedure, but your a very lucky guy if you have never had to grind the outer lip of the ball to fit the larger, new style birf into an earlier axle. I think the break point was 78 or 79. Longfield does not make a unit to fit the older, smaller axle without enlarging it. John

 

[smdennis]

Thanks very much for the input/help!

I think 'inkpot' may be right about the year of the axle housing. When i just trial fit the longfield bell into the donor FJ 60 housing (an 85), it went in fine, but in my 40 housing it wasn't even close. I had to grind quite a bit.

Regarding getting things centered, I did go ahead and spring for the kunckle centering SST to make sure I had everything shimmed properly (The idea of having the inner axle not totally centered w/r to the axle seal was a scary thought to me). 'e rock's' tip about making sure that the birf is pulled out to where it is seated on the bronze bushing when doing the trial fit is helpful...I wasn't sure how closely the birf ends up riding to that inner bronze bushing face.

Thanks!
scott

 

[high country cruiser]

Drum brake housings

If your using a drum brake housing(75 Cruiser or older), you will have to clean up the inside walls. I have pics and will post later. I know this from experience, it will scar the walls on full turn. If you use a die-grinder with a stone bit, it works really well. Call Bobby and he will tell you the same.

 

[smdennis]

pics would be fantastic! yes, i have a 75 housing that came with drum brakes. I am doing a FJ 60 swap from the knuckles out...

 

[Chop Shop]

Yes the early 40 housings need grinding to fit.

For some reason I was thinking they were going in a minitruck housing. My bad.

 

[high country cruiser]

Hmm

Not the pic I wanted.:whoops: