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60-Series Wagons Tech talk for the 60, 61, and 62-Series Cruiser wagons -- FJ62.com


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Old 05-21-06, 05:46 PM   #1
canyon62
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Transmission Filter Clean Results

I dropped the transmission pan on my 62 yesterday before doing a "Rodney flush", removed the filter, cleaned it, and ended up with a good amount of friction material (see pic below).

The fluid in the pan itself looked OK, but there were a couple of magnets stuck to the bottom of the pan that had a layer of fine shavings attached to them.

I also added the B&M trans cooler mentioned in other posts here.

I put it all back together, filled with Mobil 1 synthetic dexron III and everything seems to be working well... (i did under fill on my first test run which resulted in a couple of slips, but once everything was topped up, it is all good).

So, is this alot of crap in the filter or what could be expected if no one had ever gone in there before?
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Old 05-22-06, 09:14 AM   #2
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Looks about like mine did.

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Old 05-22-06, 10:05 AM   #3
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thats pretty clean

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Old 05-22-06, 10:23 AM   #4
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Dentron II is the recomended for your tranny . ? whats is the diferent between normal ATF vs Detron III .. ?

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 05-22-06, 10:45 AM   #5
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Tapage, I haven't seen dexron II on the shelves anywhere here is the US. I Believe that dexron III is an improved version that replaces II and IIE, so it is OK to use in our trannys.

Euclid, how long did yours run after your filter looked like this? Did you say ~2 years?

We'll see how the tranny handles the 200 miles and mountains passes on the way out to Antelope Lake (5000 ft) in Norcal this weekend.

Thanks for the input

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Old 05-22-06, 10:54 AM   #6
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I did two cleans. The first time it looked like those pics. About 2 yrs later I did another clean and it was half that bad. A few months after that I was replacing the transmission.

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Old 05-22-06, 11:16 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euclid
I did two cleans. The first time it looked like those pics. About 2 yrs later I did another clean and it was half that bad. A few months after that I was replacing the transmission.
Hijack! GT, how is the Extreme holding up and working for you?

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Old 05-22-06, 04:39 PM   #8
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So what is a "Rodney flush"?

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Old 05-22-06, 04:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overhanger
Hijack! GT, how is the Extreme holding up and working for you?
Best mod on the truck ever. I really love it. The 33's are tolerable because I can drop into 3rd and still have lockup. I am looking forward to the re-gear which shouldn't be very long.

No doubt about it, if your transmission is out the best way to go is to get a new one from Rodney.

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Old 05-22-06, 04:57 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by zcruiser
So what is a "Rodney flush"?
Rodney owns Wholesale Automatic Transmissions in Australia. He knows more about Toyota automatic transmissions than anyone I have run across. I bought one of his heavy duty A440F's about a year ago. See above post about that.

Here is a post from rodney to the 3FE list some years back on how to flush the transmission...

"The Rodney Flush"
Here is a full set of instructions to do an Automatic Transmission full flush and oil flow test all at the same time. I have done it different ways but the best way I have set out below:
*Remove the front drive shaft. *Undo the rear cooler line from the rear transmission union. *Slid a rubber hose over the cooler line and direct it into a bucket. *Either drain the transmission using the drain plug or service the transmission. *Refill the transmission with 1 and a half gallons of transmission oil (Synthetic Recommended). *Start the car in park and hold it at 2000Rpm for 60 seconds and turn off. *Measure the oil in the bucket to find out transmission flow. *Add another gallon into transmission. (Engine Off) *Restart car and let it just idle until the oil changes colour to a nice clean oil, you will need to ad some oil as you are doing this to keep it flowing. Then shut engine off. *Refit rear cooler line. *Refit front shaft. *Restart car and top up the transmission to correct level.

PRESTO! The easy way by far. Full flush and flow test all in one! Because the very end of the cooler line bend directly down this make everything so easy and removing the drive shaft just make it hassle free. Off to work CYA! Rodney

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Old 05-23-06, 07:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canyon62
Tapage, I haven't seen dexron II on the shelves anywhere here is the US. I Believe that dexron III is an improved version that replaces II and IIE, so it is OK to use in our trannys.
Yap I know Dextron III cover Dextron I and Dextron II .. but steel really deiferences between simple ATF and Dextron III fluid type ... ?

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 05-23-06, 09:26 AM   #12
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What are you refering to as "simple ATF"? Here in the states you can get Dextron III, Ford Type F and a Chrysler specific Dextron plus a couple of brand only bought at the dealer types. Not sure what "simple ATF" is...

If I had to guess I would say the differences lie on the additive packages in each fluid. Different friction modifiers, lubes and viscosities...not much left after that.

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Old 05-23-06, 12:14 PM   #13
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I guess I should consider myself lucky. In 220K miles I've never had chunks of anything in my tranny pan and only a slight bit of film on my magnets. I try to change my fluid once a year and last time I was finally able to get my hands on a couple cases of Mobil 1 synthetic, so I added that. So far I've had no issues with my tranny *knock on wood*, and hopefully it'll last until I can easily afford the 5 speed conversion.

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Old 05-23-06, 01:17 PM   #14
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Thanks, euclid!

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Old 05-23-06, 04:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spook50
I guess I should consider myself lucky. In 220K miles I've never had chunks of anything in my tranny pan and only a slight bit of film on my magnets. I try to change my fluid once a year.....
There would be far less questions for Rodney if everyone did this. A lot of non-enthusiasts never change the tranny fluid. I bought my FJ62 dirt cheap from someone that gave up on it when the tranny started to slip. I did the passive flush and new kickdown cable and it has shifted perfectly. I'm still keeping my fingers crossed that it will stay that way.

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Old 05-24-06, 10:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zebrabeefj40
What are you refering to as "simple ATF"? Here in the states you can get Dextron III, Ford Type F and a Chrysler specific Dextron plus a couple of brand only bought at the dealer types. Not sure what "simple ATF" is...
I'm also and this is the reazon for my question .. last saturday I was buying tranny fluid to change it in my 442F next sat. So I saw in Texaco and other ones ATF tranny fluis .. reading back " nor recomended for use in auto trannys ( of course it said transmisions ) that are recomended to use Dentron III ..

So I bought 4 Q from Quaker State Dextron III

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if you are achieveing the max boost then it isn't the boost that is going to kill your engine... it is your right foot.
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Old 05-30-06, 09:20 AM   #17
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Just an update... successfully made the 500+ mile roundtrip into the mountains this weekend with no tranny problems at all. Since I haven't gotten the trans temp gauge in yet, the old "hand on the side of the shifter base gauge" was used and never got too hot. Between the cooler install and cleaning the filter I think we've got a second wind.

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Old 05-04-11, 07:47 AM   #18
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There are two stypes of transmission filters; One two inch and the other about 1/2 inch thick.
Which one is best and and what brand is a good quality?
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Old 05-04-11, 12:27 PM   #19
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There are two stypes of transmission filters; One two inch and the other about 1/2 inch thick.
Which one is best and and what brand is a good quality?
It's not so much a filter as a strainer housing with a very fine metal screen. the factory housing in an A440F is about 2" thick, give or take a bit. You should never have to replace it unless the screen gets damaged. Just give it a good cleaning with some brake cleaner (doesn't leave residue) when you have it out and let it dry out good before reinstalling it. You'll be fine.

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