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60-Series Wagons Tech talk for the 60, 61, and 62-Series Cruiser wagons -- FJ62.com




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Old 04-05-09, 10:45 AM   10 links from elsewhere to this Post. Click to view. #1 (permalink)
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84' build. "The Bruise"

I had a previous thread on putting two 60s together into one good one, but I scrapped that idea when I found the new 84'.

84' FJ60, stock 2F, 4spd, etc.

The plan is to do an SOA and keep it low on 33s. Here is what I am starting with.



So, this rig will be getting three rows of seats as well. So, I grabbed a 3rd row set off of a fellow board member for the 3rd row from an FZJ80. I will be installing these shortly as well.



Here are the pieces I will be using for the SOA.



Then after really trying to decide whether or not to keep the 2F or not, and weighing the cost of a motor swap compared to what I have to put into the motor for a carb rebuild($300), and new header ($200), and then all the labor to throw into a motor with 165K on it. So, after realizing that I would want more power than 135HP eventually I started looking for motors.

I really didn't find much until I started looking at complete vehicles. I then found an 89' 1/2 ton Suburban 4x4 that had a new TBI350 and new 700R4. So, I bought the entire rig for less than what a motor/tranny alone would cost. This way I have the complete vehicle to rob parts of for the swap.





So, yesterday I pulled the 60 into the shop to prep it for the tear down of the stock suspension and SOA. I have the new 33s and wheels already too.








I will be frenching the shackle hangers into the frame to keep the ride height lower than your typical SOA, and to eliminate any shackle inversion as well. I will also be doing a shackle reversal up front and stretching the wheel base a few inches by moving the front axle forward a couple inches to allow tire clearance at the firewall under compression.

FWIW, this will be a slow build process since I will be doing it in my spare time on the weekends at the shop. The SOA will be completed first. Then I will drive it a little bit before doing the motor swap at the end of summer. The burb in the meantime will used as a DD until then since everything still works and it runs and drives great. A/C still works as well.

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Old 04-05-09, 10:53 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I like your plans. Keeping it low is a good thing.

Do you intend to cut the fenders to clear the WB stretch?

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Old 04-05-09, 10:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Slowerthanu View Post
I like your plans. Keeping it low is a good thing.

Do you intend to cut the fenders to clear the WB stretch?
No, the shackle reversal will allow the front tire to move backwards under compression and it should clear just fine. Only possibility of rubbing that I see would be at the very front of the fender when turning, but I think with 4-5" of lift it won't be an issue.
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Old 04-05-09, 11:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I am not a Chevy fan, but the "Burban" looks to be perfect!



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Old 04-05-09, 11:24 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I am not a Chevy fan, but the "Burban" looks to be perfect!
That is what I was thinking... Not a big fan, but hate to see a perfectly good rig sacrificed. At least it isn't a Toyota!

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Old 04-05-09, 11:53 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Burb has rust. Its got a cheap Maaco paint job on it. Nothing wrong with the burb, but it will still make a damn nice donor.
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Old 04-05-09, 12:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Love that blue 60. Crush that 1/2 ton POS chevy, the TBI 350 is the only decent part on the whole truck. I like the idea of a LOWER SOA! Cant wait to see pics.
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Old 04-05-09, 02:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Keeping it really low is really hard. I came up with an idea to run the two main leafs off the OEM spring pack and then put in 3 or 4 long leafs or add a leafs that are flat. You'd then get some light inversion on the springs (ala Ford OEM style on many of their trucks) and take it from there. I've only built one 60 SOA that was so-so with 33's and the springs were flat and/or inverted. With long enough leafs even inverted it should be in good shape. Your only other route is to use coils and build a coil set up. I think it's less hard than it sounds using 80 series control arms and all the pre-fab parts from ballistic fab. I'm doing this with a mini truck and a FJ62 axle in the next couple months to built a 3-4" lift and 33s - Hope it helps!

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Old 04-06-09, 12:20 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Nice looking 60! I purchased and 88 Burban to use as a donor but it was trashed everywhere so it deserved to be a donor. I cut the third row seat mounts out of the floor and welded them into my 60 to get my third row.


I found the Painless wire harness instructions to helpful when doing my conversion.

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Old 04-06-09, 12:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Why do a SOA just to run 33 inch tires? Seems like a spring lift or add-a-leaf and longer shackles would give plenty of lift to run 33 inch tires?

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Old 04-06-09, 04:19 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Everyday when I drive my 94 Yukon daily driver, I wish the engine was in my cruiser...I'm going to have to do a conversion, But I won't sacrifice my Yukon, I like it too much. I just like my cruiser more.

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Old 04-06-09, 05:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Like fowldarr, I have a Yukon, too (2001 Yukon XL w/ Vortec). I would love to have that motor & tranny in my FJ62! But, that Yukon is just too nice to pull apart!

Our Yukon XL has 130k on it, and thus far, has had only one issue. That "check engine" light came on a few times, and the mechanic traced it to a cracked filter housing. Remove & replace = $40 or so. You know something? Currently, every single part of our Yukon works perfectly. Power windows, power locks, inside and outside door handles, latches, power seats, lumbar adjustments, seat heaters, power mirrors, radio, climate control, front and rear heat and air, electric load leveler, cup holders, it all works perfectly, and nothing is broken, despite my large brood of kids going in and out that thing on a daily basis. The truck will do 80+ mph down the interstate all day long and not break a sweat. I think Vortecs belong in 60-series wagons!

Some day, when I have saved the money, my FJ62 is gonna get a Vortec. Some day.

Scotty, you have a well-thought-out game plan. I am looking forward to seeing you carry it out.

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Old 04-06-09, 05:42 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Why do a SOA just to run 33 inch tires? Seems like a spring lift or add-a-leaf and longer shackles would give plenty of lift to run 33 inch tires?
Believe it or not, because of cost. I can do a spring over with highsteer for far less than a spring lift. Not to mention ride quality and the ability to go bigger later if I want to with just an add-a-leaf.
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Old 04-06-09, 05:48 PM   #14 (permalink)
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So, I mocked up the rear in about 4 hours today after knocking out a bumper.

Based on tire to wheel well clearance I gained 5.5" of lift. It could stand to drop a little more but its not too bad as it sits right now. I currently have 8.5" between the tire and wheel well.

Stock ride height with the 33s


Today's ride height.

Last edited by Scotty; 04-06-09 at 06:00 PM.
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Old 04-06-09, 05:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scotty View Post
So, I mocked up the rear in about 4 hours today after knocking out a bumper.

Based on tire to wheel well clearance I gained 5.5" of lift. It could stand to drop a little more but its not too bad as it sits right now. I currently have 8.5" between the tire and wheel well.
Wow, fast. Got pics of how you frenched in the shackles?

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It seems I either have the time or the money to work on my Cruiser. Never both.
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Old 04-06-09, 06:10 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Wow, fast. Got pics of how you frenched in the shackles?
Actually, I haven't frenched anything yet. This was strictly mock up using the stock mounting setup. I usually do everything front & rear to get an idea on ride height. Then I adjust what I want to lower it down. I would be happy to get it around 1.5" lower, which I think is completely doable. I won't know for sure until I get the front mocked up though.

Then I will take measurements and start modifying and building my hangers.

However, the frenched shackle tube will just be a regular old frame tube through the frame like the mini truck solid axles get.
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Old 04-06-09, 06:12 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Actually, I haven't frenched anything yet. This was strictly mock up using the stock mounting setup. I usually do everything front & rear to get an idea on ride height. Then I adjust what I want to lower it down. I would be happy to get it around 1.5" lower, which I think is completely doable. I won't know for sure until I get the front mocked up though.

Then I will take measurements and start modifying and building my hangers.

However, the frenched shackle tube will just be a regular old frame tube through the frame like the mini truck solid axles get.
Gotcha. Sounds like a good plan to me, keep us updated.

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Waiting to be installed:
York 210 OBA, shocks, lots of little things....

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It seems I either have the time or the money to work on my Cruiser. Never both.
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Old 04-06-09, 10:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Gotcha. Sounds like a good plan to me, keep us updated.
Will do.
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Old 04-06-09, 11:16 PM   #19 (permalink)
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My FJ40 with a SOA is lower than a lot of my friends with suspension lifts. I used perfectly flat stock springs in the front and OME in the rear. It sat a little high in the rear for about a month, now the springs are "S" shaped and flat.
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Old 04-07-09, 09:14 AM   #20 (permalink)
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That is a really nice rig to start with Scott, I'm sure you'll be getting after it as always. Love the Smurf tastic color. looks like the paint is in pretty good shape.

Can't wait to see what you do with 'er


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