Zinga galvanizing paint

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Boy it looks an awful lot like Masterseries permanent rust sealer
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/products/primer/
Heavy aluminum content, kind of thick, sounds exactly like Cresent is describing. I used it on 100% of my fj40. Some of it has sat around for years getting wet and exposed and anything with two coats on it looks like the day I put it on. If you do not apply it smooth, it is a pain to sand. Body filler and all top coats apply to it real well. Have had no issues. Wonder if it is the same stuff, sure looks the same.
 
Vae Victus: I will keep going on my service truck and may invest in a spray gun, I just can't spray paint in my back yard it will get everywhere. I will talk to my sandblaster friend who can spray and has the shop to do it. He said to use urethane paint, painting is all Greek to me but I guess I've learned everything else so why not learn how to paint a vehicle. When I get to that stage I will let you know how it goes, and it's easier to clean up after then Por15 by the way especially when you get it on your skin.


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CJ:not sure but I doubt it, this is out of Europe, Belgium I think. When I opened the can the contents had separated and all the zinc was on the bottom and the clear fluid on top. Takes a bit to get it to mix that's for sure, I will add a little Zingasolv to my next batch before rolling and use premium mini rollers just to be fair to the product.


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Vae Victus: I will be selling a 10 KG pail (one gallon) of Zinga galvanizing paint for $284.00 and a 5 Litre pail of Zingasolv (3.79 in a U.S. gallon) for $65.00 plus shipping and taxes. I had one of each sent to me and it cost me $50 to Puralator them to my door, although I am sure there is a cheaper way to ship these I just have to do some calling around, I can also reduce the price of the product for larger shipments.
Right now there are two places import Zinga in North America, Vancouver and New York, I am not sure how many distributors from there on.

You use Zingasolv to clean up, Zingasolv is a solvent-Naptha (petroleum). It is a 100 times easier to clean up then Por15, I think Por15 is also a very good product but it is a nightmare if you get it on you and it dries.

Zinga is also flexible and will adapt to the surface it is painted onto, Por15 is hard like a rock and is not flexible.

hope this helps
 
Unfortunately nothing to update.
Haven't been able to do much on it.
Got the front & rear housings stripped & ground.
Ready for Dave's axle extensions & C&T for the front & his spindle mount on the rear.
These add about 5" front & rear and converts the rear to FF & Disc.

Got the patterns made for the frame rails. Soon as I get over to Hilo to pick up the tubing I can get the frame built.

Will be using Aqualu's 18" stretch 3/4 tub.

Hopefully I can get more done soon!

Cheers, Allen
 
Ok so I pulled the front diff out of the land cruiser to swap the springs around and I looked at the por15 paint job I did on it, it had fisheyed in it because is had handled it with greasy hands and then got lazy and painted it, the Por didn't adhere very well so I spent 6 hours scraping it down to bare metal. Then I washed the housing with soap and water, then a degreaser then the Por pre treatment and etching compound. Two coats of Zinga and first coat if Por15 over top, why? Because I wanted to see what would happen. So far so good


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Ok the long and short of Zinga is, Yes it's a good product, it UV resistant, it is top coat ready, it is tough and durable and it's easy to apply.
I found that if it is a little rough when you apply a second cost you can give it a light fine sanding and it takes down the roughness nicely.
The bad part about Zinga here in Canada is the price, they will not sell it to me any cheaper then $249 which anyone can but at that price. Their suggestion is that I add markup on that $249 to make a profit, which if I do that makes me look like a mumbly.
Also U.S. Zinga is much cheaper for some reason, my suggestion is not to buy it through me but buy directly from the supplier in Canada or the US.
As much as I like the product I can't in good faith charge more then retail price. So for that reason I am out. If they decide to sell it at a price where I can make 20% markup then I would be interested.
All in all it is still worth using this product on our restorations, just be selective of where you buy and how much you pay.

Cheers

-Ralf


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Last edited:
Good point you make, as you have previously stated you are on a island, but for other people the prep work on a chassis and then painting with Zinga is not a cheap option, it's definitely a good option, but if you have access to Gal Hot Dip then Gal is actually cheaper. But as you stated Zinga is the best option for you and if I had this option under the same circumstances would go with it also.
 
Ralf, have you read anything about using Zinga as a pour in for hollow cavities?
Such as a windshield frame.

Thinking about acid dipping (myself) an 74'-early windshield frame then pouring Zinga in, sloshing & rotating it to cover the entire interior the pouring/draining out the excess.
Do two 'coats' and maybe thin it as if it was going to be sprayed so it would flow into all the seams & such.
The inside of the frame is so hard to get rust out of & protect.

Cheers, Allen
 
Allen I think that is an excellent idea mainly because thats exactly what I will do with my hard top sides ha!
Seriously tho I do believe that would be a good preventative measure for sure. Let me know how it turns out.


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Interested in some shipped to California.

Sent from my HTC One_M8
 
Reviving an old thread to see if anyone who's tried it has some long-ish term feedback. I'm in bridge construction and have access to Zinga, not any cheaper, but easy access. I'm respraying my fj40 tub pretty quick before the rust gets any deeper and seriously considering using Zinga after a good rinse of phosphoric acid. Haven't decided on top coat, but debating Raptor on the underbody
 
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