Zinc Plating Brake Lines (1 Viewer)

[KFJ45]

Afternoon, looking for opinions on this. Took in all the hardware and had it Zinc Plated. I also took in the Brake Lines, figuring what the hell. Like all the hardware I soaked them in EvapoRust (amazing stuff). I know, they tend to rust from the inside out. My rig came from a dry climate and was well maintained. Lines look solid IMO. Down the road if we develop a pin hole, so be it.

I'm wondering if anyone has an idea how the plating reacts with brake fluid? I can always upgrade to SS. Then it will just be a few bucks spent as part of the plating process, no biggie.

Fire Away and Thanks in advance!

 

[Vintij74]

I’m not a metallurgist, by any stretch, but Zinc plating sounds pretty good for metals in contact with fluids that could get hot. I nickel plated mirror stems, tailgate chains, hinges and handles. Very pleased with the patina and not-too-shiny results after five years

I still use the original 1965 along the frame & rear axle brake lines in back, and just replaced sections that were cruddy attaching to the rear drums, also updated the proportioning valve fitting a few years back

Good luck with the zinc dip

 

[Bear]

"Down the road if we develop a pinhole, so be it." "Lines look solid". "I know, they tend to rust from the inside out."

My mil-spec plater has told me that the plating only goes into the interior of tubing a very short amount. The acid baths prior to plating will scour the inside of tubing, possibly removing any original coatings if any, leaving them susceptible to future corrosion.

Mil-spec plating requires pre- and post- bakings for specific amounts of time and temperature to ensure cancellation of hydrogen embrittlement. This is not an issue on non-critical parts--like radiator shrouds, brake fluid reservoirs, and the like. However for critical fasteners in places like engine mounts, engine assemblies, etc., where high-Grade nuts and bolts are utilized, I choose to only have fasteners mil-spec processed rather than risk possibly fatal results from trying to save a buck. Many other folks choose otherwise. It's your call.

As to 50-year old metal brake lines, where unknown fluids have been used, where condensation may have entered, and where despite outward appearances, wall thickness may have been compromised as a result, installing new lines eliminates the unknown in high-pressure hydraulic systems. New stainless steel is optimal, copper/nickel considered safe(by Porsche, Volvo, others), and combined with new soft lines, thoroughly-inspected fittings, and properly chosen brake components, should provide peace-of-mind on a vitally important safety item.

The choice is always personal. My personal choice is to NOT risk my life, that of my passengers, or those other motorists near me, when it comes to an important safety issue. There is no such thing as a "safe" pinhole leak in a braking system.

 

[cult45]

There is no such thing as a "safe" pinhole leak in a braking system.

Plus, it'll ruin anything downwind of it. Like all your chassis paint.

 

[KFJ45]

Good Morning @Vintij74, @Bear, @cult45. Thank you for your responses. Great, common sense info all around. This is actually a no-brainer considering the work I've already invested in this rig. Verdict: New Brake lines all around!

 

[cult45]

Good man!

 

[Splangy]

"Down the road if we develop a pinhole, so be it." "Lines look solid". "I know, they tend to rust from the inside out."

My mil-spec plater has told me that the plating only goes into the interior of tubing a very short amount. The acid baths prior to plating will scour the inside of tubing, possibly removing any original coatings if any, leaving them susceptible to future corrosion.

Mil-spec plating requires pre- and post- bakings for specific amounts of time and temperature to ensure cancellation of hydrogen embrittlement. This is not an issue on non-critical parts--like radiator shrouds, brake fluid reservoirs, and the like. However for critical fasteners in places like engine mounts, engine assemblies, etc., where high-Grade nuts and bolts are utilized, I choose to only have fasteners mil-spec processed rather than risk possibly fatal results from trying to save a buck. Many other folks choose otherwise. It's your call.

As to 50-year old metal brake lines, where unknown fluids have been used, where condensation may have entered, and where despite outward appearances, wall thickness may have been compromised as a result, installing new lines eliminates the unknown in high-pressure hydraulic systems. New stainless steel is optimal, copper/nickel considered safe(by Porsche, Volvo, others), and combined with new soft lines, thoroughly-inspected fittings, and properly chosen brake components, should provide peace-of-mind on a vitally important safety item.

The choice is always personal. My personal choice is to NOT risk my life, that of my passengers, or those other motorists near me, when it comes to an important safety issue. There is no such thing as a "safe" pinhole leak in a braking system.

Well said.

Brake lines are easy to bend. Just make new ones.

 

[KFJ45]

That's the plan! Thanks again for all the input. As a side note the rest of the Zinc plating came out nice. I'm lucky to have found a plating service about an hour and a half drive north here in NJ.