What is zero rust like compared to por15? JCwhitney has zero rust on sale. does auto paint go on top of zero rust? How is it for those of you who have used it?
Zero Rust (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ethan
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Not long ago I put zero rust on my axles and plan on putting it on other stuff. Mostly under the cruiser such as driveshafts, tierods, etc.. The zero rust takes forever to dry good and hard, but once it does it's almost as hard as por. I know that the military hummers and salt trucks use zero rust on alot of there stuff. www.coolcruisers.com sells it too and has a nice write up on it. You should be able to paint write over the zero rust. Although I would not recomend zero rust on zinc plated or galavanized metal, it dosn't seem to adhere to it nicely. Also if you do put zero rust on, putting two coats makes for a real hard barrier.
- Thread starter
- #3
SO its harder than normal paint. is it a thicker paint or about the same as a normal primer?
way way thicker, i put two coats on the under side of my 7 and it dryed pretty hard, its alot cheaper than por too
It's solids content is very high for paint. I'd advise thinning it whether you spray or brush and then do several coats. Personally I like it better than por because it's about 1/2 the cost of por at least and I feel they are about equal in quality. You can put auto paint over it but why? a good primer and then paint should be sufficient. You can seal the zero rust with urathane to prevent uv fading etc. I sand blasted a m416, zero oxide red then 2 coats of tan and 2 coats of urathane. I recently did the rear frame and axle on the bj.
1973Guppie
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I used zero rust and love the stuff. Easy to work with and forgiving on the amount of prep you have to do. I scrubbed the underbelly of my 40 with a scraper, wire wheel on a grinder, high pressure washer, some rust neutralizer where needed, rinsed it with tri sodium phosphate, and finally slapped the zerorust on there. The Tri sod phos really works well when painting. I have been told it changes the metals ph balance and gives a better adhesion of the paint to the metal. Worked well for me. A couple years later and the zerorust still looks great. I have heard both good and bad things about por. From what I gather you really need to be careful on the prep when using por. If I were painting a bare sandblasted frame I would probably use por, but since I was just cleaning mine up and slapping it on I thought zerorust worked great. You can cut it quite easily as well and this works well to get it into certain areas. I brushed it on and used 2 coats. I have a bunch of pics if you want to see them. Don't have a star so email me at: nbwebmail@adelphia.net and I will forward them to you so you can see before and after pics.
Noah
Noah
- Thread starter
- #7
Is zero rust flat of glossy?
semi gloss
After I put the zero rust on, mine dried real flat and hardly and gloss at all, but then again I havn't put my second coat on yet.
I like zero rust alot more than por, hardly any prep, cheaper, and works just about the same. I can shot you a pic of what it looks like on my front axle, if want to see it. I used the spray can zero rust, and one can goes pretty far.
I like zero rust alot more than por, hardly any prep, cheaper, and works just about the same. I can shot you a pic of what it looks like on my front axle, if want to see it. I used the spray can zero rust, and one can goes pretty far.
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- #10
I got 2 gal of zero rust black from jcwhitney (never thought I would really order from them) It was half off so I went for the 2 gal. should be enough for the fj40's frame and under the body.What is a good recomendation for getting a gloss top coat? Yeah I know some of you are wondering why gloss. I want a hard gloss finish so that its easy to clean. flat and simi gloss collect dust. I dont mind dust as long as I can at least clean it off every so many years. So what would be a good hard gloss finish? I had seen that there is a hard nose tan por15. what is this tan like. I want to paint my cruiser tan. Is it close to dune beige? Any one use this? (I would use the tan for the body) OR does it sound like i am retarded with the whole gloss thing due to the fact that most of the stuff Im putting it on is under the hood or on the frame.
I used for por on my frame, and got a pretty nice gloss from the por15 chassis coat, but theres probably a cheaper, better way to go.
Ethan said:
I am the zero rust champ after a quart or two of rust encapsulator from eastwood I switched to ZR..
if you want glossy and hard you need "clear coat" from guess who.. zero rust
zero-rust.com
this is what I did with Z.R. even my lungs now are zero rusted my whole cruiser is zero rusted inside and out frame and suspension you can top coat it with any non acetone based paint, little prep and even looks good brushed on
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=47159
PS
if it is taking too long to dry it's only because too much was applied at once
it should dry to the touch in 30-45 imn and fully cure in a week or even less depending on the outside humidity
Last edited:
wesintl said:
So you just spray the urathane over the ZR after it dries?
Actually I think I probaby used the zero rust acrylic clear coat. I can't remember as it was a while ago and I also painted some softtop bows around the same time. If you let it dry it needs a week to fully cure before you apply the clear but you can spray it within a couple hours of the applying ZR. I think I let mine dry about 1-2 hours.
http://www.zero-rust.com/crystal-coat.html
http://www.zero-rust.com/crystal-coat.html
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
thread revival....
For those people who have used ZR...
1) how many layers do you need to get their desired 3mil thickness?
2) how far does one can go?
3) is it ok to use over an oilbased paint ...such as rustoleum?
For those people who have used ZR...
1) how many layers do you need to get their desired 3mil thickness?
2) how far does one can go?
3) is it ok to use over an oilbased paint ...such as rustoleum?
I like Zero Rust, but I've found their black will bleach from direct sunlight and exposure to the elements. No problem, I just spray more on.
One thing about Zero Rust is that it does go on thick, and is very hard when it dries. In the meantime, you better have patience, because it is quite soft and easily damaged until it completely dries. I prefer to spray mine when we're having 80+ degree days for a while. But that's a luxury around here.
One thing about Zero Rust is that it does go on thick, and is very hard when it dries. In the meantime, you better have patience, because it is quite soft and easily damaged until it completely dries. I prefer to spray mine when we're having 80+ degree days for a while. But that's a luxury around here.
Amazing amount of agreement for a paint tread. I too like Zero Rust better than the others (though I haven't tried Rust Bullet). I've used it, POR and Rust Encapsulator underneath my FJ62 ann Zero Rust has help up much better than the other in the NE salt over the years. My favorite is to let the Zero Rust harden properly (like 2 weeks) and then top coat it with POR chassis Coat Black.
Oh, to answer your questions:
1) I usually use 2-3 coats with a decent amount of time in between
2) don't remember
3) Zero Rust really wants to be on bare metal, if you spray it over rustoleum it'll lift when the rustoelum lifts
Bill
Oh, to answer your questions:
1) I usually use 2-3 coats with a decent amount of time in between
2) don't remember
3) Zero Rust really wants to be on bare metal, if you spray it over rustoleum it'll lift when the rustoelum lifts
Bill
