And a hat tip to all for the reminder on the 9th body bolt. Both sides done, but need longer bolts to attach the rear crossmember bumps.
Yup. Fat Amy gets a body lift.
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Damn. How to you get around while lugging the weight of those giant brass balls??
Congrats on the success! Do you worry about sheer under heavy braking or extreme use?
Congrats on the success! Do you worry about sheer under heavy braking or extreme use?
Lol thanks! No worries about sheer - used 4crawler 1” blocks, OEM body mount bolts except for the mount on front of rear axle - and for that used a 10.9 metric (grade 8) bolt.
I wanted 1” so I could remove rear bumpstop spacer (also 1”) - now at full bump the 37s won’t touch the top of fender well. Purposely chose not to go any higher than that!
Fwiw you can find used bumper skins on eBay. Most are pretty chewed up at the bottom but you’ll cut that off anyway.
@nwfl4runner What roof platform do you have?
ARB aluminum wire mesh - the old style!
so here’s a question - my steering joint moved quite a bit, and the splines are just outside the bolt (which still tightened). Wondering if I should loosen near the rack and sort of slide that connector up? Thoughts?
I wish I could answer your question definitively, but here is a picture of mine, and now that I see how much your splines are exposed, I now know that mine stretched or slid only at the upper joint. I noticed that the cap could slide down so I taped around it. Removed for this photo. I don’t know what is up inside that upper portion other than I can slide that cover down and see a small amount of splines exposed.
Now, after seeing yours, I’d like to slide that middle section up just a little.
Now, after seeing yours, I’d like to slide that middle section up just a little.
Ah, didn’t realize that was a moveable shaft. Looking bottom of that shaft has 2 sets of splines so there’s still engagement there - hope I didn’t chew them up running the bolt in. Probably safer to try pushing it back down all the way 🤷♂️
Thankfully dodged that bullet - screw and threads were safe. Just removed it, grabbed shaft at the c clip and it slides right back in! So steering all sorted 👍
So, can we safely conclude that the steering shaft does not need modification for a simple 1” lift?
Yup think so - my connection seems solid - I wonder if for lifts closer to yours if something like this would be an option (Assuming spline count etc)?
Love your truck, especially green cruisers. Toyota nailed the green with the 200!
So you definitely need to drop the radiator or cut the shroud. Put together some brackets to try, just need to press the studs in tomorrow.
When are you opening up preorders for your kit 🤔
Is he/someone making a kit?
Please, will someone make a 1” body lift kit for our 200 Series?? 🙏🏼
Hopefully I'll be able to sort through all the little hiccups and then try to give a detailed walkthrough of the stuff I used and where to grab it! Once I drop the radiator, I need to tackle brake lines/brackets, rear bumper skin (I had to cut it below the hitch as it was touching), and trailer hitch wiring.
So far here's what I've used:
4crawler's UHMW blocks (painted black, and pre-drilled for Toyota bolt size m12) Thanks to @MTKID for giving me the dimensions!
4x2” diameter (front 2 body mounts, and 2 rear crossmember bumps)
2x3” diameter (rear body mounts)
4x3.5” diameter (center body mounts)
Bolts:
I re-use the 2 body mount bolts from the front footwell in place of the 2 bumper body mounts. They fit perfectly with a 1" lift
For the driver/passenger front body mount and the rear bumper mounts, I use Toyota 52217-60080 (this is the OEM bolt for the second row body mount)
For the second row body mount, I use 2 m12x1.75x230mm 10.9 bolt from Belmetric. For the top frame washer I just knock the washer off one of the other unused body mount bolts. For the bottom, I re-use the Toyota washer and then a new m12 nut.
All are torqued to 40ftlb per FSM (in the repair section)
The radiator drop bracket will be (hopefully) installed tonight, but it uses 1x2 1/4" steel that I drilled out for m8x1.25x25mm studs at the top to slide through the frame, and m8x1.25x35mm flat heads countersunk to bolt into the radiator stock mounts. I used an 8mm drill bit and then I think a random 45/64 bit to countersink the hole. I specifically used 1/4" to give enough depth to sink the head flush but still have more than enough strength, and also keep distance between the fan and radiator.
Up front the brake lines have enough stretch, but I plan on moving the hard line brackets on the side and top of frame up an inch. I ordered extended length soft lines as well. I have to take a closer look in the rear to see what the tension is like.
The rear bumper skin also binds right below the trailer hitch. My 2010 has that pointless metal bracket that drops down, and I removed that, but still had to cut the skin. The cut needs to be cleaned up, covered with some trim, and also a small bracket to tie it back to the frame (I'll take pictures). The trailer hitch wiring bracket also needs to be moved up, but I need to relocate the whole thing as it hangs down stupidly low now.
So far here's what I've used:
4crawler's UHMW blocks (painted black, and pre-drilled for Toyota bolt size m12) Thanks to @MTKID for giving me the dimensions!
4x2” diameter (front 2 body mounts, and 2 rear crossmember bumps)
2x3” diameter (rear body mounts)
4x3.5” diameter (center body mounts)
Bolts:
I re-use the 2 body mount bolts from the front footwell in place of the 2 bumper body mounts. They fit perfectly with a 1" lift
For the driver/passenger front body mount and the rear bumper mounts, I use Toyota 52217-60080 (this is the OEM bolt for the second row body mount)
For the second row body mount, I use 2 m12x1.75x230mm 10.9 bolt from Belmetric. For the top frame washer I just knock the washer off one of the other unused body mount bolts. For the bottom, I re-use the Toyota washer and then a new m12 nut.
All are torqued to 40ftlb per FSM (in the repair section)
The radiator drop bracket will be (hopefully) installed tonight, but it uses 1x2 1/4" steel that I drilled out for m8x1.25x25mm studs at the top to slide through the frame, and m8x1.25x35mm flat heads countersunk to bolt into the radiator stock mounts. I used an 8mm drill bit and then I think a random 45/64 bit to countersink the hole. I specifically used 1/4" to give enough depth to sink the head flush but still have more than enough strength, and also keep distance between the fan and radiator.
Up front the brake lines have enough stretch, but I plan on moving the hard line brackets on the side and top of frame up an inch. I ordered extended length soft lines as well. I have to take a closer look in the rear to see what the tension is like.
The rear bumper skin also binds right below the trailer hitch. My 2010 has that pointless metal bracket that drops down, and I removed that, but still had to cut the skin. The cut needs to be cleaned up, covered with some trim, and also a small bracket to tie it back to the frame (I'll take pictures). The trailer hitch wiring bracket also needs to be moved up, but I need to relocate the whole thing as it hangs down stupidly low now.
Oh and fun fact - if you installed a dissent bumper by yourself and tried to leave enough plastic below the grill to put some trim on, it turns out you’ve left just about an inch of adjustability! So, post body lift gap resolved:
Inside my rear bumper, under the plastic and on top of that last crossmember I taped (3m VHB trim tape) square aluminum tube. Cut to length, clean off the top of the metal and tape the aluminum down. I was going to do the whole width but I’ve only done the middle with a couple 3” segments.
And my rear plastic bumper cover is trimmed up so it doesn’t even go under my rear crossmember any more. Then it can’t get hung up if you’re dragging over something.
And my rear plastic bumper cover is trimmed up so it doesn’t even go under my rear crossmember any more. Then it can’t get hung up if you’re dragging over something.
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