I'm trying to remember if thats the brand Landtank went with . Sounds familiar .. think so . Ricks kickin around somewhere ... so I'll shutup now Tyler - padded post potential = 7.5
4:88's with 35's are supposed to rock ! Not to pirate here ... k , maybe a bit . Who would do a pumpkin rebuild while they were in there changing gears ? And at what mileage do they require same ? Ty
[quote author=FJ809496TLC link=board=2;threadid=7179;start=msg59489#msg59489 date=1068085114] Any opinion/s or experience/s on this brand? I am planning to regear to 5.29s. Thanks.. [/quote] Uh, you're going at least 38" right? I think Pimp has Yukons, but I could be wrong. I'm sure he'll stick his fugly head in here. Not so sure how I'd feel about strength of the 5.29's though. That may not be an issue, but I thought someone had issues with these before with only like 37's or smaller on. :-[
5.29s have always been suspect for strength. Just word of mouth here. If you are going less than 37s I would consider 4.88s instead of 5.29s. Tyler, You are replacing the ring and pinion...may as well do a carrier rebuild (most kits include new goodies when you buy them anyway). I am non-elocker equipped so I plan on pulling most out and going to an aussie the rear and an ARB up front anyway...which replaces just about everything.
That's me . I've got the Yukons from Randy's with their rebuild kit. 25k and no issues. They were a little loud in the beginning but now run nice. The explanation I got was that they were a harder gear and needed some time to break in. As a side note, if you plan on removing your diffs and having someone else do the install be sure to lock them first if you have the e-locker .
Interesting idea Rick. Do you know why you should lock the diff before you take it apart. I am thinking of re gearing a 100 series with a locker but I assume the procedure would be the same. Thanks, Doron.
If you don't lock them first then it is much harder to pull the diffs. You would have to take apart the diff lock and move the pin/shaft manually to get the diff to come out. Very good point by Rick. If you happen to follow the FSM while doing the removal it tells you this procedure in there. Bill
I ordered my 4.88s and install kit from Slee offroad. No noise at all. Just changed the oil out of the diffs after 2500 miles. Clean. When I had them installed I just gave my mech the FSM so he would have all the specs and tricks pertinent to the locked TLC. The only problem was getting the correct shims as there was not a single shim in Canada. had to wait about 4 days to get the correct shims in. BTW FJ809496 TLC what size of tires are you planning on? Sean
If you don't lock the rear diff before removing the RH axle shaft, the dog clutch sleeve may fall out of the fork.
[quote author=cruiser99 link=board=2;threadid=7179;start=msg59728#msg59728 date=1068128964] Interesting idea Rick. Do you know why you should lock the diff before you take it apart. I am thinking of re gearing a 100 series with a locker but I assume the procedure would be the same. Thanks, Doron. [/quote] I know that to install the factory locker, it needs to be locked when installing it. I guess Dan has explained why. I thought it just wouldn't fit. Since the 100 series has the semi-floater axle, I'd think the rear-end construction is pretty similar to the 60 series/toyota mini-trucks. I added a factory rear locker into an old 4Runner this past January. Some guys are doing the same to their front solid axles, adding the 80 series hi-pinion locking diff (same mods needed...weld a bead and grind it down to increase gasket area, grind the notches for the actuator, drill/tap new holes). Circuit consists of 2 bosch relays and cole hersee spst (enable) and spdt (lock/unlock) switches. For the 100, you can use the factory switch. The way I have mine rigged, you can use it in 4wd hi or lo. I'd think it would be more advantageous to have a 100 series w/ rear air and the 4-pinion front diff than the locker...probably easier to add the locker than the rear air... --Jim
Part of the manufacturing process is to "lap" the mating gears. With the price of these gears what they are, I'm sure this process is minimalized. From talking with my installer, Yukons can be difficult to get aligned properly. As anything else that is manufatured there are degrees to each individual parts accuracy. I had a little noise in the beginning some may not.
[quote author=FJ809496TLC link=board=2;threadid=7179;start=msg60058#msg60058 date=1068169796] Thanks for the infos everybody. Tires size will be between 38" to 40". [/quote] Sweet! Lets see some pics!
Precision Gear also makes LC gears. I've heard only good things about Precision and US Gear, mixed things about Yukon and superior (most failures probably due to 'home' installations), and only negative things about Genuine Gear (4WParts). Whatever you do, get someone who installs R&Ps everyday to do yours. Installation is the key to your gears giving you years of service or breaking on the trail (exception is Genuine...I heard they're made in Pakistan or India).
I will try to call Precision and US gears again. They didn't have the 5.29s the last time I called them. Thanks..
[quote author=FJ809496TLC link=board=2;threadid=7179;start=msg60460#msg60460 date=1068258573] I will try to call Precision and US gears again. They didn't have the 5.29s the last time I called them. Thanks.. [/quote] Not sure if US gear makes LC gears (I know precision lists them on their website). I know they don't make V6 rear gears for the 4Runner/mini-pickup, and some shops try to jip customers by using 4-cyl gears and shimming the pinion (not a good solution, as the V6 R&P are substantially thicker).
[quote author=Jim_Chow link=board=2;threadid=7179;start=msg59845#msg59845 date=1068145315] Since the 100 series has the semi-floater axle, I'd think the rear-end construction is pretty similar to the 60 series/toyota mini-trucks. [/quote] <hijack>Is that true? 100 rearend is SF, even with a locker?</hijack>
