YotaMD Titanium Integrated Remote Key Fob Shell (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

itsmekai said:
Searched through the thread, sorry if this has been mentioned, but has anyone used a non-OEM key? Seems like most internal remotes are the same shape, but I'm worried the top of the blade won't be.

My joys of buying a cruiser with only one regular (non-remote) key. Guess I may just have to gamble on one.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth, I bought two aftermarket keys shortly after buying my 99 LC. I bough them from Amazon for around $15-30 each. No remote included, just the uncut key in an OEM-looking shell. They both broke quickly and are now a part of my testing pile. One was the T variety and one was the I style in my white prototype key video. The YotaMD shell is designed to fit both of those perfectly.

The "U" style is an oddball and I have a new revision of titanium brace that should hold that style in place more firmly. I'll test that new revision later this month.

Short answer: ~97-98% of customers have the I or T style and the YotaMD shell fits both of those perfectly. The U style works, but isn't perfect and I'm working on a solution.

Austin Hot Shoe said:
View attachment 1570458 Ok, here is my problem, both the dealer and 2005 manual say the same thing, the immobilizer chip is in the head of the key. I'm thinking this solution may not work for me........any 2005 folks out there that want to chime in?
Click to expand...

Can you explain what you're concerned about? The immobilizer is definitely in the remote portion of the remote keys on all years with the 3 button style remote as seen in this thread. The non-remote key has an immobilizer chip inside the rubber head of the key, but has no remote. That non-remote key isn't compatible with the YotaMD shell, but the remote version definitely is.

Do you have a remote key?
 
suprarx7nut said:
For what it's worth, I bought two aftermarket keys shortly after buying my 99 LC. I bough them from Amazon for around $15-30 each. No remote included, just the uncut key in an OEM-looking shell. They both broke quickly and are now a part of my testing pile. One was the T variety and one was the I style in my white prototype key video. The YotaMD shell is designed to fit both of those perfectly.

The "U" style is an oddball and I have a new revision of titanium brace that should hold that style in place more firmly. I'll test that new revision later this month.

Short answer: ~97-98% of customers have the I or T style and the YotaMD shell fits both of those perfectly. The U style works, but isn't perfect and I'm working on a solution.



Can you explain what you're concerned about? The immobilizer is definitely in the remote portion of the remote keys on all years with the 3 button style remote as seen in this thread. The non-remote key has an immobilizer chip inside the rubber head of the key, but has no remote. That non-remote key isn't compatible with the YotaMD shell, but the remote version definitely is.

Do you have a remote key?
Click to expand...
Yes sir, I have the 3 button remote, before your fob came to market, dealer said for 2005 they could not sell shell with key bc the chip was in the head and they would have to reprogram the master keys, adding just moving the remote portion would not work. Is this a ploy by Toyota service and parts? I hate to bust up a 3 button remote that is still 60% good.
 
Austin Hot Shoe said:
Yes sir, I have the 3 button remote, before your fob came to market, dealer said for 2005 they could not sell shell with key bc the chip was in the head and they would have to reprogram the master keys, adding just moving the remote portion would not work. Is this a ploy by Toyota service and parts? I hate to bust up a 3 button remote that is still 60% good.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if they were being purposefully dishonest or if they were just ill-informed themselves. You can unscrew the back screw off your OEM shell (philips screw) and remove the remote without breaking anything to verify there's nothing special in the key itself. In the clear-faced remote internals there's even a little chip, presumably containing the immobilizer component, that you can remove if you snap apart the internals. Toyota/Lexus designed the remote to be removed from the shell. Toyota, as of last year, even sells the replacement shells/keys. I'm not sure why they wouldn't want to sell you extra key plastics. Either they're unaware or they're just hoping to sell you an entire $150-400 key instead. I think my shell is a better use of your money regardless, but I'm biased. ;)

A note though: If you dont have multiple master keys with the chip, I would very strongly recommend buying another remote key. If you only have one and you lose it, you could be in a world of hurt trying to get another master programmed. The Toyota method is to replace the entire security ECU with a new one, factory paired with a new remote key. I'm not sure exactly which part numbers are needed for a fresh start, but I've heard it's $1,000 or more. I still believe there's a way to program it using techstream, but that apparently isn't common knowledge so who knows. Be safe and get yourself a backup if you don't already have one. At that point, you'll feel better cracking open that 60% broken shell anyways!
 
suprarx7nut said:
I'm not sure if they were being purposefully dishonest or if they were just ill-informed themselves. You can unscrew the back screw off your OEM shell (philips screw) and remove the remote without breaking anything to verify there's nothing special in the key itself. In the clear-faced remote internals there's even a little chip, presumably containing the immobilizer component, that you can remove if you snap apart the internals. Toyota/Lexus designed the remote to be removed from the shell. Toyota, as of last year, even sells the replacement shells/keys. I'm not sure why they wouldn't want to sell you extra key plastics. Either they're unaware or they're just hoping to sell you an entire $150-400 key instead. I think my shell is a better use of your money regardless, but I'm biased. ;)

A note though: If you dont have multiple master keys with the chip, I would very strongly recommend buying another remote key. If you only have one and you lose it, you could be in a world of hurt trying to get another master programmed. The Toyota method is to replace the entire security ECU with a new one, factory paired with a new remote key. I'm not sure exactly which part numbers are needed for a fresh start, but I've heard it's $1,000 or more. I still believe there's a way to program it using techstream, but that apparently isn't common knowledge so who knows. Be safe and get yourself a backup if you don't already have one. At that point, you'll feel better cracking open that 60% broken shell anyways!
Click to expand...
Thank you, I think your key fob is 100x better, just want to make sure it will work, I will have have a talk with the dealership as to whats up.
 
Jeepster09 said:
Do you send tracking when you ship? I ordered and paid on 6th and have not heard anything.
Click to expand...

Yes, tracking emails go out soon after shipping. Yours was supposed to go out today, but all my local post offices were unexpectedly closed (Veteran's Day, I should've put that together), so it'll go out early next week.
 
Just got a shipment of stone grey and they came out a little smoother than normal. Hopefully this is the new standard for this color. Perhaps the printer refined their settings for this material. This is done on an HP Jet Fusion printer, where most the other colors I offer come from an EOS SLS machine. It's hard to make out much texture difference in this cell phone pic, but enjoy it anyway!

stone grey smooth shipment.JPG
 
Had a customer ask for a one-off, non-cleared, matte blue. Figured I'd share. Everyone note that without the clear the color will wear and show dirt quickly. Looks good clean and new though!

You can see how it compares to a typical, cleared blue.

DSC_0166 (2).jpg


DSC_0167 (2).jpg


DSC_0169 (2).jpg


DSC_0170 (2).jpg


DSC_0171 (2).jpg
 
I am curious regarding the internals of the shell. Are there any gasket systems or something to provide water resistance? I "accidentally" went swimming with a key when I was kayaking this summer and have been looking for something that can handle more rugged environments along with being a hell of a lot stronger externally.
 
dsw1020 said:
I am curious regarding the internals of the shell. Are there any gasket systems or something to provide water resistance? I "accidentally" went swimming with a key when I was kayaking this summer and have been looking for something that can handle more rugged environments along with being a hell of a lot stronger externally.
Click to expand...

I don't think the buttons are waterproof so any sealing short of encapsulating the entire remote is probably not going to withstand submersion. There is a flexible material I have not tried out yet, but it would sacrifice a lot of aesthetics and feel.

If there's a little demand I could design something up, but it'd carry a hefty premium over the current offering.
 
dsw1020 said:
I am curious regarding the internals of the shell. Are there any gasket systems or something to provide water resistance? I "accidentally" went swimming with a key when I was kayaking this summer and have been looking for something that can handle more rugged environments along with being a hell of a lot stronger externally.
Click to expand...
Did the key give up after that? I suppose that would be the remote function only.
I have submerged my key twice, and it survived OK. Both times were fresh water tho'. There is a seal under the battery lid, and I presumed that the buttons would also be sealed, otherwise there wouldn't be any point in the battery seal.
 
The wife loves the color and quality...

IMG_7597.JPG
 
uHu said:
Did the key give up after that? I suppose that would be the remote function only.
I have submerged my key twice, and it survived OK. Both times were fresh water tho'. There is a seal under the battery lid, and I presumed that the buttons would also be sealed, otherwise there wouldn't be any point in the battery seal.
Click to expand...

The key itself did survive but the remote failed. I am looking into using something like liquipel to coat the inside and out of the key and remote. might get one of these housings before i send attempt to see if it works.
 
How am I just seeing this?! The key broke on my LX a year ago and I've been f'ing around with crap option after crap option from ebay ever since.

Ordered, I'm literally giddy with anticipation!
 
PabloCruise said:
Heck yeah, getting one for the :princess: as she likes mine so much!
Click to expand...

Nice!

mgoblue said:
How am I just seeing this?! The key broke on my LX a year ago and I've been f'ing around with crap option after crap option from ebay ever since.

Ordered, I'm literally giddy with anticipation!
Click to expand...

Haha, that's awesome. I'm excited for you to get it and put it to use! Spread the word with anyone you know with a late 90's - mid 2000's Lexus! I think I'm still just skimming the surface of the Lexus market.
 
I ordered one yesterday for my new to me GX470. Got it home from Charlotte and realized that the **** OEM key shell is cracked. Looking forward to getting the new one soon!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Key fob issue
Replies
7
Views
1K
Provocateur
P
R
Replaced tilt/tele module key fob dead
Replies
0
Views
392
Radish150
R
A
Japan Spec 100 series central locking key fob frequency
Replies
1
Views
382
Bennymic
B
C
Unknown remote
Replies
1
Views
388
saucebox
saucebox

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 4 (members: 0, guests: 4)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom