Yota diesel comparo (1 Viewer)

[Blue 60]

For those of us not in the know on Toyota diesels, could someone please post up some comparison info on the diesels? For the BJ, HJ, and other series/versions, what are/is the:

Size(liters)
# of Cylinders
Turbo options (factory/aftermarket)
Fuel economy
Imported to ______ country
Any other important info (maybe why you would choose this engine over the others, not including cost or availability)

Blue 60

 

[The Dude]

Go check out http://birfield.com/modules.php?name=TLCFAQ it will have all the info you want!!

 

[BC Cruiser]

Try this site they got tons of info on engines, axles, and stuff.
http://www.off-road.com/tlc/faq/engine.html#HD_NM_21

 

[bigbrowndog]

Engine Code/Name: 2H
Engine capacity (cc): 3980
Engine type: Diesel
Engine description: 6cyl/2v
Maximum Power: 76kW @ 3500rpm
Max Torque: 240Nm @ 2200rpm
Number of cylinders: 6cyl
Configuration: In-line
Valvetrain: Push Rod
Valves per cylinder: 2v
Fuel system: Indirect inject.
Fuel type: Diesel
Bore x Stroke: 91.0x102.0mm
Compression Ratio: 20.7:1
Battery output: 12V/65Ah
Alternator output: 55A
Ignition system: Compression

 

[bigbrowndog]

Engine Code/Name: 1HZ
Engine capacity (cc): 4164
Engine type: Diesel
Engine description: 6cyl/SOHC/2v
Maximum Power: 96kW @ 3800rpm
Maxi Torque: 285Nm @ 2200rpm
Number of cylinders: 6cyl
Configuration: In-line
Valvetrain: SOHC
Valves per cylinder: 2v
Fuel system: Indirect inject.
Fuel type: Diesel
Bore x Stroke: 94.0x100.0mm
Compression Ratio: 22.4:1
Battery output: 12V/65Ah
Alternator output: 110A
Ignition system: Compression

 

[bigbrowndog]

Engine Code/Name: 1HD-FTE
Engine capacity (cc): 4164
Engine type: Diesel
Forced induction system: Turbo
Engine description: 6cyl/SOHC/4v
Max Power: 122kW @ 3400rpm
Max Power: 151kW @ 3400rpm(on LC100 with intercooler)
Torque: 380Nm @ 1400rpm
Torque: 430Nm @ 1800rpm(on LC100 with intercooler)
Number of cylinders: 6cyl
Configuration: In-line
Valvetrain: SOHC
Valves per cylinder: 4v
Fuel system: Direct injection EFI
Fuel type: Diesel
Bore x Stroke: 94.0x100.0mm
Compression Ratio: 18.8:1
Battery output: 12V/65Ah
Alternator output: 110A
Ignition system: Compression

 

[rick_d]

all for typical north american heavy duty land cruiser

>Size(liters)
3.4 (4 cyl) or 4.2 (6cyl)

># of Cylinders
see above

>Turbo options (factory/aftermarket)
engines available: {3B, 3BII, 4 cyl} {2H, 1HZ, 6 cyl}
---(B omitted because obsolete engine and very old)
yes, all have aftermarket turbos available
yes (essentially) all are made in factory turbo form
13B-T, 12H-T, and 1HD-T

>Fuel economy
downhill no tailwind? 38" tires? 35 mile per hour or 85? etc.
4 cylinders get no more than 30 miles per US gallon and average 21-27
6 cylinders get 20-26 on average depending on application.
over 65 mph, all cruisers get less miles per gallon

>Imported to ______ country
Canada only. US did not get diesels.
If you can source anywhere, and have 100% connections you can buy any engine over the world but let us deal with cost effective delivery.

>Any other important info (maybe why you would choose this engine over the >others, not including cost or availability)

asking this is like SOA vs. SUA, V8 vs. 2F. We do not know if you are converting or buying JDM or Canadian market or something else.

I will say, drive whatever combo you think you might like first. Find a BJ60/70, find a HJ60/HJ61, find a HDJ80, find a HZJ73/77 or BJ42, or if you are lucky a HZJ75/79 CDN mine truck.

buy what you can get parts readily for:
3B, (3BII nixed because limited run), 2H, 1HZ
or buy what is close (sisterhood)
13B-T, 12H-T, and 1HD-T

A few questions for you.
#1, what is your budget?
#2 what is your chassis choice? 40/55/60/70/80/100/other
#3, what do you want, super mileage, off road performance etc?
#4, do you understand direct vs indirect injection systems and non turbo engines being turbo'd?

 

[Blue 60]

Currently I have an 84 FJ60. It runs fine now, 10-11 mpg (12 if lucky). I'm just looking down the road a bit for a slightly more powerful and more fuel efficient diesel motor. I'd like to keep the motor and components simple and mechanical with little or no electrical (computer) gizmos. That and I want to put a lift in too but not a big one, so that kind of rules out the cummins 4bt. I assume that the 2h and 2b should fit in an fj60 w/ no lift needed???? I'm not looking to fly down the road @ 75mph, 65 is fine. Right now off road is non-existent, but would like it to be more expedition like than rock crawler like in the future. Right now I'd probably lean more towards a 2h or 2b w/ a turbo and a 5 speed (h55?). (DD by the way)

Thanks
Blue 60

 

[Greg_B]

Currently I have an 84 FJ60. It runs fine now, 10-11 mpg (12 if lucky). I'm just looking down the road a bit for a slightly more powerful and more fuel efficient diesel motor. I'd like to keep the motor and components simple and mechanical with little or no electrical (computer) gizmos. That and I want to put a lift in too but not a big one, so that kind of rules out the cummins 4bt. I assume that the 2h and 2b should fit in an fj60 w/ no lift needed???? I'm not looking to fly down the road @ 75mph, 65 is fine. Right now off road is non-existent, but would like it to be more expedition like than rock crawler like in the future. Right now I'd probably lean more towards a 2h or 2b w/ a turbo and a 5 speed (h55?). (DD by the way)

Thanks
Blue 60

Correct, you will not need a lift to run or install any of the Toyota diesel motors.

The 3B, 2H, 12HT all came in the 6* series chassis in different markets. THe HZ and HD-T have been swapped in and there are tech write-ups on this site.

All are mechanically reasonably simple, (if no auto involved for the HD-T) and can be mated to H55F's.

Inline pumps for the 2H/12HT/3B/13BT and rotory for the 1HZ/HD-T.

As someone posted, use the Birfield site for engine comparisons (HP and Torque).

Motor mounts would have to change if you went with anything other then the 2H/12HT.

hth's

gb

 

[rick_d]

13B-T, turbo 3B, and 1HZ have essentially same horsepower/torque as 2F.

12H-T is one step up, the 1HD-T (then 24V 1HD-FT) are two steps up in power and price.

the 3B OR 2H alone would not meet these needs so an addition of turbo is a must.

(the 2B is a jap spec engine you do not want).

I have to say my biggest dislike for B series engine is the low redline-they must be driven conservativly. I would seek out a California local with the 3B/3B turbo/13B-T and test drive the vehicle.

I believe there are a few turbo 2H/12H-T's in California and I would try them as well.

 

[denis]

I have to say my biggest dislike for B series engine is the low redline-they must be driven conservativly. I would seek out a California local with the 3B/3B turbo/13B-T and test drive the vehicle.

I'll trade you a 5500 rpm 2LT for a 3500rpm 13BT

 

[Tapage]

13B-T, turbo 3B, and 1HZ have essentially same horsepower/torque as 2F.

12H-T is one step up, the 1HD-T (then 24V 1HD-FT) are two steps up in power and price.

the 3B OR 2H alone would not meet these needs so an addition of turbo is a must.

Rick .. nice comparision .. and advice. ( stairs scale .. nice ! )

 

[ylexot]

A quick plug for the 3B from a former owner. While true it's HP rating is a little low as well as the redline (3500rpm vs 4000rpm for the 2F), I can say that as a driver it didn't really matter much. The peak torque is solid and available at low RPM. I found I could drive comfortably on a flat road at 75-80mph with 31" tires and a H55 tranny. It did get a little gutless on the freeway in the high mountain passes, but I could still pass the VW busses for what that's worth. I was planning on putting in a DIY turbo to boost the power, but it was a very drivable engine stock especially at sub-highway speeds.

I agree with the above post. Find some local guys and test drive their diesels. (Who doesn't like to show off their rig?) There's no substitute for 1st hand experience.

 

[Dieseler]

Not sure about rick_d experience or lack of experience with the 2b, I have two 2b BJs one 3b,one 12ht, my 2b motors are just as good as my 3b have no issues with limited rpm range and actually my 2b's are just as quick as the 3b both in town and on highways,as well as offroad.
Not sure why someone would be trying to max out the rpm range on a cruiser this is just asking for engine failure,personally my experience with the 2b is very positive I have no problem getting parts for it filters,glowplugs,and gaskets are all attainable through the dealer.
Now the 12ht is a awesome motor lots of power,parts are more limited on this motor since it had a limited production compared to the 3b which was used in a lot of Land Cruiser models over a long period of time Bj42,bj62,bj70 series and more.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Engine Specifications - Trucks 4x4 @ Off-Road.com

 

[Radd Cruisers]

13B-T, turbo 3B, and 1HZ have essentially same horsepower/torque as 2F.

12H-T is one step up, the 1HD-T (then 24V 1HD-FT) are two steps up in power and price.

the 3B OR 2H alone would not meet these needs so an addition of turbo is a must.

(the 2B is a jap spec engine you do not want).

I have to say my biggest dislike for B series engine is the low redline-they must be driven conservatively. I would seek out a California local with the 3B/3B turbo/13B-T and test drive the vehicle.

I believe there are a few turbo 2H/12H-T's in California and I would try them as well.

The specifications are just numbers - nothing more, nothing less - the actual driving experience between these engines is totally different. The numbers bear no mention of how the diesels perform in any given situation - 12HT is awesome on the highway, but (with a 5 speed) touchy off-road, and lacks the true bottom end of a 2H or 1HZ.

The 1HZ will pull a barn down at 500 RPM and not skip a beat, but is a little underpowered in the freeway over 100 kph, but add a turbo and it's a different animal. The 1HZ is also amazingly smooth and quiet.

The 3B is built to take a lot of rough use, and makes buckets of torque at 500 RPM - but lacks highway punch. The 13Bt has all the rattles and quirks of a 3B, but has lots more power, a little less deep bottom end (though not much less - and once the turbo spools that a all changes) and is much better on the highway.

The redline of a 3B is a totally useless measurement of its performance or capability: in 99.9% of driving you will never even get close to it. There is also no reason to drive the engine "conservatively" as it's built like a brick outhouse - just don't overheat it, or over-rev it (but that applies to any engine).


hth, John

 

[GLTHFJ60]

i agree with Radd Cruisers. i've driven a 1HZ-T and it has an incredible amount of power. Im going to swap in a 1HZ-T when i get the money.

 

[Dieseler]

What year and model of LC does 1HZ-T come in,I have been considering this engine swap for my BJ43.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The 1HZ-T is a custom engine. It's comprised of a 1HZ longblock with a 1HD-T intake and turbo system. At least, that's the one I drove.

 

[crushers]

John and i will agree completely.

the redline for a 3B is 4100 rpm, not 3500. redline for the PZ, HDT, HZ, HZ-T is 4700.

although the 13BT and the HZ share the same HP numbers the HZ is a slug and the 13BT rocks.

i have said this often on this site, IF you are going to all the bother of swapping in a diesel then swap in the newer versions, they are just as tough as the older models but they are still in production so the parts availability for the next 10 years is there. the older versions are fine engines but why swap an engine in that you might have trouble getting parts for it in 5 years (some parts are already obsolete).

personal preference HZ with mapped turbo and H55F, sweet combo that goes like stink, lugs like a tractor and returned decent fuel milage (depending on the right foot)...and no sensitive throttle issues.