Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to... (1 Viewer)

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From my basic understanding, since there is two front brakes lines coming out of the ABS unit, and only one line coming in, a tee is needed. Where do I get this tee from if I remove the ABS pump?

From the original guide he makes it sound like he uses a tee he gets when he removes the LSPV setup. I want to keep my LSPV intact.
 
From my basic understanding, since there is two front brakes lines coming out of the ABS unit, and only one line coming in, a tee is needed. Where do I get this tee from if I remove the ABS pump?

From the original guide he makes it sound like he uses a tee he gets when he removes the LSPV setup. I want to keep my LSPV intact.
There is no tee at the LSPV. The only tee he incorporated is originally mounted at the firewall just below the MC. You can’t simply do what he did and retain the LSPV? I don’t have first hand experience with what you are doing because I removed my LSPV along with the ABS.
 
From my basic understanding, since there is two front brakes lines coming out of the ABS unit, and only one line coming in, a tee is needed. Where do I get this tee from if I remove the ABS pump?

From the original guide he makes it sound like he uses a tee he gets when he removes the LSPV setup. I want to keep my LSPV intact.
There are many M10x1.0 T fitting options direct from Toyota if you need one. Go to Partsouq and search any Toyota SUV or truck, in the brake section. One I chose, for other reasons, because it has mounting as well you can modify and tie to the fender, 90412-A0005 ($16-$20). I assume your keeping the LSPV to keep it what is in your mind "correct" so if the case search Partsouq for NON ABS brake lines for your year and run all new OEM NON ABS front lines. This will involve the 3 way on the axle and a new run to the passenger side. This is how you keep it correct and available from the factory. Modifying the brake system "your way" is just as bad as running without the LSPV IMO.
 
BTW, I have nothing against the brake mods and LSPV removal, I have done both and no regrets. Just offering a solution to do it completely right. Here is a picture to reference above.
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Finally pulled the abs pump. My ABS light was already on becouse of the part time kit. But now the red brake light stays on. Is this normal after pulling the abs pump or is it something simple like the sensor on the resiviour which looks fine but might have been damaged some how.
 
Parking brake handle get moved?
 
Finally pulled the abs pump. My ABS light was already on becouse of the part time kit. But now the red brake light stays on. Is this normal after pulling the abs pump or is it something simple like the sensor on the resiviour which looks fine but might have been damaged some how.
It will stay on until you pull the lamp.
 
It will stay on until you pull the lamp.
I think you are right about the yellow abs light. My post was talking about the red brake light. I topped off the brake fluid and it went out. So I dont think the brake light should stay on.
 
One more question. Once the abs pump and wiring harness to the wheels is removed, is the a "brain" or computer module that can be unplugged and removed?
 
After driving around with the ABS fuse removed for the last 6-7 years be decided to remove the whole ABS/LSPV system. Looking to do that this weekend. Many years ago I could not bleed the ABS brain, said F it and pulled the fuse. Been driving around without any issues since. Time to gain some space under the hood. I also removed the light behind the dash so I didn’t have to look at it every time I drove it
 
Is removing the ABS fuse as good as removing the entire system?
 
Is removing the ABS fuse as good as removing the entire system?
No, you need to install a proportioning valve to distribute pressure to the rear brakes.
 
No, you need to install a proportioning valve to distribute pressure to the rear brakes.
technically the need for adding a proportioning valve is not due to removing the ABS but the LSPV system. Usually people delete both the lspv and the abs system.
 
No, you need to install a proportioning valve to distribute pressure to the rear brakes.

This is highly debatable due to the fact that most folks leave their prop valve wide open, so it's really not doing anything. I propose driving w/o the prop valve to see if one can lock up the rear tire easily due to their 80's balance/weight/etc. Then make an informed decision.
 
This is highly debatable due to the fact that most folks leave their prop valve wide open, so it's really not doing anything. I propose driving w/o the prop valve to see if one can lock up the rear tire easily due to their 80's balance/weight/etc. Then make an informed decision.
yeah for sure I agree with you, you may not need it, but for me I wanted the adjustability on my personal rig, I usually set it half way dialed in, I personally would not want 100% braking back there especially in the ice / snow.
 
yeah for sure I agree with you, you may not need it, but for me I wanted the adjustability on my personal rig, I usually set it half way dialed in, I personally would not want 100% braking back there especially in the ice / snow.
I had a prop valve go on another vehicle. Just replaced it with a manual wilwood. Likely a solution for the 80 series too.
 
Just removed the ABS and finished up under the hood in about an hour. I now have two connectors dangling and I'm very tempted to snip those off and tape off the exposed ends. The other end of these wires are terminating into the ABS ECU in the left kick panel, and that's my assumption. I haven't traced out all the wires yet. The ABS ECU will be deleted as well. Curious to hear if anyone has done this.

I gotta give props to @JeepinPete for doing an excellent write-up. I'm now waiting for the rain to stop so that i can tackle the LSPV, then start doing a front brake job, then bleed the brakes.
 

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