Yet another EDIC question

[Green Lantern]

I ran a search and this banana peel mechanic is still confused...
I apologize if this is simple.

My 1981 BJ42 has a 3B and everything is stock. The EDIC relay clicks like a chipmonk when it starts. No clicks, no start. Once I get it started the engine continues to run after I switch the ignition key off. I can stop the engine by manually pushing the EDIC motor arm to STOP.

I cleaned the plugs at the EDIC relay and the EDIC motor. I checked the ground wire from the battery, it's good. The relay is firmly grounded to the glovebox. The EDIC motor appears to groound to the motor block. I checked and cleaned the Engine fuse. I haven't found the oil pressure switch, but since it runs, I think it must be working.

I cleaned the contacts on the ignition switch too. The glow system appears to work normally. Next, I replaced the EDIC relay with a new one. Same symptoms, same problem. :-(

I'm hoping my Northern dieselhead friends can suggest something before I start checking individual electrical lines.

BTW, I saw Brown Bears post about which wires do what at the EDIC relay. Unfortunately, my wires have different colors. The always hot wire on mine is white/blue. Two wires are hot with the ignition on and all wires show ground (except white/blue) with the ignition off. I haven't tried unplugging the relay with the engine on yet cause I was afraid it would mess up the relay. HTH

Thanks in advance.
Happy Trails! N

 

[mallred]

Mine wil not shut down always, It is in the ignition switch where my problem is, if I pull down on the key and wiggle the switch will click and then shut down. Yours might be simular.

 

[brownbear]

Since you've tried a lot of things, try disconnecting or jumping the low px switch to see if it still does it. Maybe on start up the oil pressure is a little low and it causes it to cycle when starting.

I do not know if the low oil px switch is a normally open switch or normally closed when it has oil pressure on it. I think it needs to be normally closed so that you get a ground thru it. So if you pulled the plug off while it was running and it quits, then you know you need to join those two wires.
Then try starting again to see if it still does it. The relay needs that ground to energize I am thinking it may be your problem.

Those wire codes I got out of the FSM, so not sure if there is different ones.

 

[Green Lantern]

Thanks guys!

Is the oil pressure switch the bell shape thingy below the oil filter? It has two wires coming from it. I figure one to the oil gauge and one to the low pressure switch?

I'll try that before I replace the ignition module. Luckily I can replace the module without changing the key. Things are looking up.
Happy Trails! N

 

[brownbear]

I'm not a 100% sure which one it is. I think the larger one is the gauge. The other one is a simple on off switch. But the easy way is to start the truck and go disconnect them one at a time. Then you know for sure which one sends to the gauge as you will read 0 oil pressure. Where as the other should quit the engine.

 

[toynut]

on my truck when my edic relay was clicking on and off i found two senders on the block the one closest to the firewall was for the edic relay .

 

[Green Lantern]

My significant other stopped me before I could check the sender. She came out with her command voice, "Step away from the car. Keep your hands where I can see 'em. Clean up... we need to eat and go to the grocery store."

Oh well, I'm looking forward to running this problem down this evening.

Happy Trails! N

 

[Green Lantern]

I think the next step is to replace the oil sensor.

The sensor on the passenger side of the block, beneath the oil filter, has two wires. One goes into the firewall and the other grounds to the block. I detached the block ground with the motor running... no change. I reattached it and detached the other wire from the sensor... the oil gauge slowly went down. Slowly? Maybe the sensor is stuck. So I removed it and cleaned it out with WD40. No clods or debris, just black motor oil. I filled it with gun oil and replaced it. After cleaning the sensor, I noticed a red dot painted on the outside of the sensor. I assumed it needed to point up.

I have the factory service manual for the B Series motor and couldn't find anything on the oil pressure sensor. That's why I'm writing all the details here.

After replacing the wires and confirming good contacts, I was able to start the motor (the EDIC relay chattered merrily). When I turned the key to the LOCK position, the motor contined to idle. I tried wiggling the key with no luck. So, I revved the engine up and removed my foot from the accelerator. As the engine slowed, the signal went through and the motor died.

Following my Redneck logic, the next cheap thing to try is... replace the oil sensor. Other thoughts, comments, or humor is appreciated. Thanks for the bandwidth.
Happy Trails! N

 

[Greg_B]

I think the next step is to replace the oil sensor.

The sensor on the passenger side of the block, beneath the oil filter, has two wires. One goes into the firewall and the other grounds to the block. I detached the block ground with the motor running... no change. I reattached it and detached the other wire from the sensor... the oil gauge slowly went down. Slowly? Maybe the sensor is stuck. So I removed it and cleaned it out with WD40. No clods or debris, just black motor oil. I filled it with gun oil and replaced it. After cleaning the sensor, I noticed a red dot painted on the outside of the sensor. I assumed it needed to point up.

I have the factory service manual for the B Series motor and couldn't find anything on the oil pressure sensor. That's why I'm writing all the details here.

After replacing the wires and confirming good contacts, I was able to start the motor (the EDIC relay chattered merrily). When I turned the key to the LOCK position, the motor contined to idle. I tried wiggling the key with no luck. So, I revved the engine up and removed my foot from the accelerator. As the engine slowed, the signal went through and the motor died.

Following my Redneck logic, the next cheap thing to try is... replace the oil sensor. Other thoughts, comments, or humor is appreciated. Thanks for the bandwidth.
Happy Trails! N

Yup. Take apart the EDIC motor (or have someone do so who rebuilds starters, alternators etc) and check it's features. The system on my BJ42 acted up a long while ago (good grounds, good wires, good relay). I had the EDIC motor rebuilt. Now, it acts up when it has not been run for a long while. It was simply is the contacts in the motor itself. Some of the grease from the rebuild got on the plate. Cleaned that up and it is better.

Good luck!

gb

 

[Green Lantern]

Thanks Greg!

Thank the Cruiser Gods I have a donor motor. It's also good that I have a daily driver...

I'll post the result after I do this normal maintenance.
(chagrin)

Happy Trails! N

 

[brownbear]

I think the next step is to replace the oil sensor.

The sensor on the passenger side of the block, beneath the oil filter, has two wires. One goes into the firewall and the other grounds to the block. I detached the block ground with the motor running... no change. I reattached it and detached the other wire from the sensor... the oil gauge slowly went down. Slowly? Maybe the sensor is stuck. So I removed it and cleaned it out with WD40. No clods or debris, just black motor oil. I filled it with gun oil and replaced it. After cleaning the sensor, I noticed a red dot painted on the outside of the sensor. I assumed it needed to point up.

I have the factory service manual for the B Series motor and couldn't find anything on the oil pressure sensor. That's why I'm writing all the details here.

After replacing the wires and confirming good contacts, I was able to start the motor (the EDIC relay chattered merrily). When I turned the key to the LOCK position, the motor contined to idle. I tried wiggling the key with no luck. So, I revved the engine up and removed my foot from the accelerator. As the engine slowed, the signal went through and the motor died.

Following my Redneck logic, the next cheap thing to try is... replace the oil sensor. Other thoughts, comments, or humor is appreciated. Thanks for the bandwidth.
Happy Trails! N

Ok for low oil switch, if you disconnected the plug and ground and the engine never quit, it may be that the when the edic grounds out it quits the engine, so try disconnecting the plug and then starting the eng. IT should start if you had the plug off wihile it was running and it never quit then it tells me the switch is normally closed when the engine is not running giving a ground to the relay. But once oil px build on cranking the px switch opens and the relay looses it ground.

Can you confirm this by attaching the wire that goes to the firewall to ground and killing the engine while idleing. Or disconnecting the plug and trying to start the engine? Don't replace the oil sensor yet.

didn't you replace the edic motor already?

 

[Green Lantern]

I have to clarify something. It all makes better sense after I have a beer.

Earlier I said there were two wires on the oil sensor. That was wrong. There is a double wire coming from the firewall. One connects to the oil sensor and the other grounds to the block. It appears the wire I thought was a ground is, in fact, the low pressure switch.

Checking to see if the motor starts with the low pressure switch unplugged is my next step. I have not replaced the EDIC motor or the low pressure switch. I've been looking at that donor motor and the idea didn't occur to me until Greg mentioned rebuilding the EDIC motor.

Like I said... a banana peel mechanic!

Happy Trails! N

 

[brownbear]

I have to clarify something. It all makes better sense after I have a beer.

Earlier I said there were two wires on the oil sensor. That was wrong. There is a double wire coming from the firewall. One connects to the oil sensor and the other grounds to the block. It appears the wire I thought was a ground is, in fact, the low pressure switch.

Checking to see if the motor starts with the low pressure switch unplugged is my next step. I have not replaced the EDIC motor or the low pressure switch. I've been looking at that donor motor and the idea didn't occur to me until Greg mentioned rebuilding the EDIC motor.

Like I said... a banana peel mechanic!

Happy Trails! N

Yah first thing is to see if it needs ground on that plug(low oil px switch) to run or if it runs with it disconnected. If it will not start disconnected, put a jumper in the connector(joining the two wires). Then try starting it, Hopefully the funky chicken will stop.

That was another thread on here by Behemoth60, edic funky chicken. Try searching that.