Yet another door lock problem... (1 Viewer)

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Dec 31, 2015
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Chattanooga, TN
Looking for some 'mud input...

I've got a really clean 2000 cruiser that recently developed a lock issue. I don't think it's the typical solenoid problem, but welcome all advise.

The doors all lock/unlock with the fob, and the door switch will unlock the doors but not lock them. Recent development after changing the battery. Solenoids are all activating strongly, just can't lock them from the inside.

Has anyone run across this before? I searched and found mention of someone pressing the fob buttons a few times with the key in the ignition to fix it, but no dice on my end. I'll start tracking down fuses later today and I'll also check the switch contacts.

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
More information may be needed. Does passenger side lock button work correctly or same symptoms?
 
Neither the driver side or passenger side door lock buttons are functional. Both will unlock, neither will lock. Both went down at the same time.

I have a hard time believing that both door switches went bad at the same time, my bet is on a bad fuse/wire somewhere, or a goofed up setting with the immobilizer.
 
Do you have the key in the ignition while you try to lock from the inside with the switch?
 
Hate to be a pain, but bumping my own thread for fresh eyes to see. This lock problem is driving me nuts.

Didn't see any lock fuses btw, did see a thread here that mentioned a separate relay for just the lock function. My gut tells me that if the relay went bad the fob wouldn't work either.

Stupid question, but would bad actuators cause an issue like this?
 
Check for a broken wire in the rubber conduit between door and kick panel. Chafed and broken wires are possible. Not sure if that will will cause your symptoms, but that's something simple to check.
 
Will do, thanks Dwight. I'll pull both ends of the wiring harness and check continuity too.
 
Can you both unlock and lock all doors from an exterior door lock, using the key? It might help isolate the issue...
 
I would get out a multimeter and test the switch.

Edit: nvm I read that both the passenger and driver switch produce the same results. Still be good to rule them out.
 
when you try using the lock switch does it attempt to lock or it does nothing

Absolutely nothing. No noise from the actuators, no click from the lock computer/relays, nothing. Only on the lock function, unlock works fine. Kinda why I thought it might be immobilizer related.

However I did notice today that the actuators need to be replaced. I think it's unrelated (just age). I'm going to go ahead and replace them anyway.
 
Absolutely nothing. No noise from the actuators, no click from the lock computer/relays, nothing. Only on the lock function, unlock works fine. Kinda why I thought it might be immobilizer related.

However I did notice today that the actuators need to be replaced. I think it's unrelated (just age). I'm going to go ahead and replace them anyway.
FWIW, check out the big actuator thread. Folks are now using a Camry actuator and are replacing the top lever from the LC actuator onto the Camry actuator because the Camry one has screws on the body and allows you to open it up without breaking and reglueing the clamshell. I am doing one of mine this weekend...
 
Still might be worth checking the switch. On previous vehicles I've had the main switch stop working and the other switches not work because of it. Just an idea. Then I would check wires.

Basically my best advice is to grab a multimeter and dig in.
 
The power door lock control system inspection procedures start on page 127:

http://dustbird.com/ih8mud/FSM/Body Electrical.pdf

I'm betting body ECU is bad. If it was something simple like a busted door close sensor, then the fob wouldn't work either.
 
Alright, update: swapped body ECU, cleaned door switch contacts...nothing. Still no change. No broken wires that I can find.

Any new thoughts? Thanks everyone for your input so far. Not sure where to go from here.
 
Do you know anyone with a 100 nearby? Swapping in a known-working master switch would rule out the switch.

The rubber boot between the door and the fender is famous for hiding broken wires. I would first hold down the lock switch while slowly opening and closing the door. If you're lucky, it'll lock and you'll know you have a broken wire in that boot.

Next I'd test continuity for the wires coming out of the switch. Black/white to ground should be good if unlock works, so check the blue/white wire for continuity through the boot.
 

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