Yep - another Pitman arm question ( subtitle: this thing tried to kill me) (1 Viewer)

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The thing I don’t get is why they swapped them in the first place. Those look to be 17” rims, which should clear the tie rod ends just fine in the stock configuration without wheel spacers...unless there’s a caliper issue.
 
I was told I have FJ60 knuckles but I am not knowledgeable enough to identify them for sure.

mini knuckles and 60 knuckles are the same, along with 40 knuckles from late 1979 and up.
there are rotor differences between mini and landcruiser, so caliper differences also.
mini used solid rotors, landcruiser used vented rotors
 
@lcwizard - no idea as this is how it came to me. I will swap them back to the correct side/orientation. Those are 17 inch rims, good eyes!

@65swb45 - I think this was a pretty stock rig when they started, seems likely driven by the steering box conversion if I had to guess.

@3_puppies - thanks for the education, did not know that.
 
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mini knuckles and 60 knuckles are the same, along with 40 knuckles from late 1979 and up.
there are rotor differences between mini and landcruiser, so caliper differences also.
mini used solid rotors, landcruiser used vented rotors

I hate to assume even that anymore. I've worked on twp Columbian import 40s.
One 82 and an 83. Both had drums up front. the steering arms had the large taper of the
60 but the small stud pattern from the early 40 arms.. The market's getting flooded with non
USA parts and trucks. Time to learn a whole new norm
 
I hate to assume even that anymore. I've worked on twp Columbian import 40s.
One 82 and an 83. Both had drums up front. the steering arms had the large taper of the
60 but the small stud pattern from the early 40 arms.. The market's getting flooded with non
USA parts and trucks. Time to learn a whole new norm

I will keep that in mind Dave. I’ve got an SA truck in the shop right now that I’m doing the rear end on, and I will likely be doing the front next. It has drums up front, and the removable dash center of an ‘83.
 
OK guys-I think I’m back in business here. I am, except for the Pitman arm, putting it all back to stock and that includes swapping the steering arms to the right sides.

I would like to give an extra shout out to @65swb45 Who was kind enough to sit with me and lay everything out to compare what I had to what I should and reconcile what I needed from the parts that I had ordered.
 
Well, sort of in business.

This cone washer will not come out, and unlike the others ones there is no relief cut in it.

The arm will come up loose and I can wiggle it but I can’t seem to get it free.

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That looks like the flat washer on top of the cone Tom.
 
@65swb45 - huh , I already pulled the flatbwahser off that one.

In any case I can’t get that or the cone underneath it off. I can wiggle the whole arm but it get stuck with about 15 mm of daylight under it
 
If you've got 15mm to work with, knock the arm back down. Then there should be enough of the cone exposed to grab it with pliers or vice grips and rotate it. Once it starts rotating, it should come up.
 
Flipped that over and gently tapped it out.

Both sides done and ready for the arms once some other bits arrive.

Thanks again!

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Run a quick check to see if your backspacing on your rims clears.
 
not to derail you any further but i’m looking at your shocks too while you’re in as deep as you are. my understanding with bilsteins is that the name should be right side up so that means your shocks are upside down. they’re different from most shocks that have the shock body on the bottom. some people may say it doesn’t matter but i’ve read that it does affect the oil flow or something. might want to read up on it yourself to make a decision if you want to flip them. just my 2 cents again while your right there. there’s are some reports that say it doesn’t matter with the design of the 5100 series shocks but the bilstein site suggests that’s the way they are supposed to be installed
 
Yep - the correctly mounted arms are fouling the 17 rims.

Time for a spacer?
 
I have clearance with a 1 inch spacer.

I know the spacers need to be VERY well secured in order to be safe.

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One step faster than I can stop you! But...it’s not too late. PLEASE!!!!! Go out to the truck and put your knee against the upper part of each front tire, then grab the inside of the tire (topside) with both hands and try pulling out on the tire with your hands and pushing in with your knees.

Any clunk is loose wheel bearings. Wheel spacers are a huge fulcrum on even properly adjusted parts. On loose ones I’d be just as worried as with those 8mm driveshaft bolts.
 

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