Yeller Gold (3 Viewers)

[Ol Yeller]

Are you saying there was no sleeve in the front?
Nice to have some help!


***
Took a quick look at the front 60 diff I have out - no sleeve.

You can't use the c -clips either. I've never swapped back to front, but the front has no inspection cover to put that stuff in after the shaft goes in.

Thanks gents, yeah so I’ll move the sleeve & C clips to the rear housing, new at this so just checking...never trust someone hasn’t made a mess before me.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Chasing threads and cleaning today...like therapy.

I think one set of upper studs in the knuckle is beyond use as are all the spindle bolts, man that was a rusty axle.

Prime & paint tomorrow is the plan, almost like summer here today.

 

[RUSH55]

Awesome! Looks great man, keep after it.

I think one set of upper studs in the knuckle is beyond use as are all the spindle bolts, man that was a rusty axle.

I hear you there, wonder if that’s a 60/62 thing where the owners give zero care for upkeep(?). My front axle was possibly the grungiest, sludgiest, cruddiest axle I’d ever seen in real life.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Hit up my local dealer today to grab some misc hardware, no stock & none in system...argh.

The very helpful gal did take my number and said she would follow up with the “old dogs” in the morning, so I’m not without some hope.

I’m at a loss for the part number on the spindle bolts, searched on here but didn’t come up with anything usable.

Anyone know?

 

[tucker74]

Pretty sure Cruiser Outfitters & SOR both carry these bolts -

Tucker

 

[Ol Yeller]

So a little research on the GX rear disks yesterday, they will fit the 15” steel wheels but I don’t see the parking brakes happening with the difference in offset between flange and housing. I was going to buy a whole axle for parts but now thinking just grab calipers & rotors...can fab caliper mounts to weld on.

60 housing

GX

 

[RUSH55]

Pretty big difference. Still not sure what the recipe is for going disc on a 60 rear and retaining the park brake

 

[Ol Yeller]

Pretty big difference. Still not sure what the recipe is for going disc on a 60 rear and retaining the park brake

I think you could offset the backing plate and massage the linkage to squeeze it in there, most of the park brake is outboard of the flange location...but I’m retaining my T case brake so not needed at this time.

 

[Ol Yeller]

I was thinking of waiting on a buddy for rear axle, as he is upgrading his 60 to FF later this summer, but now I’m happy to move on with rear disks so no waiting. (Yes I know it’s not going to get done any quicker)

I’ll be doing some reading of my own but - what master do I need for stock 55 booster and 4wheek disks?

Might as well get it coming from Kurt.

 

[RUSH55]

So tell me you’re finding something similar to this? 1992 - 1994 4Runner/T100

Centric Brake Master Cylinder fits Toyota 4Runner Land Cruiser Pickup T100 | eBay

C-Tek Centric Parts. If there is a problem, we are ready to fix it.

www.ebay.com

What I can’t seem to conjure up is the bore spec. The consensus I’ve been seeing for the front and rear discs using 4Runner hardware is 1.125” MC bore.

 

[J Mack]

but I’m retaining my T case brake so not needed at this time.

Do you have one that actually works?

 

[Ol Yeller]

Do you have one that actually works?

Yes it seems good, and I already have the freshen up bits from Kurt to keep it working.

 

[Ol Yeller]

So tell me you’re finding something similar to this? 1992 - 1994 4Runner/T100

Centric Brake Master Cylinder fits Toyota 4Runner Land Cruiser Pickup T100 | eBay

C-Tek Centric Parts. If there is a problem, we are ready to fix it.

www.ebay.com

What I can’t seem to conjure up is the bore spec. The consensus I’ve been seeing for the front and rear discs using 4Runner hardware is 1.125” MC bore.

Hmm

I did some searching earlier and read that a 94 non abs 80 series was the one to use when doing a rear disk swap. I was just wondering if it would work until I did the rear disk swap.

So I read somewhere else the ABS 80 was the one to get for 4 wheel disks but only 1”

I wish I had bookmarked more info, struggling to find the treads I had read.

 

[Ol Yeller]

60 master if you're keeping rear drum. Non ABS 80 if you're going all disc. Fjparts.com and Cruiser outfitters both have good deals on genuine Aisan units.

from a trusted source, I see a wordy order email to Kurt in my future, just to confirm the non-abs 80 is in fact “the one”

 

[scrapdaddy]

I was using a 1993 T100 master and from memory it has a 1" bore. The booster was a 1998 Tacoma with 4Runner disc all the way around.

 

[RUSH55]

from a trusted source, I see a wordy order email to Kurt in my future, just to confirm the non-abs 80 is in fact “the one”

I think you’re right about that. Are you keeping the 60 front calipers?

You’re planning your hydro-boost conversion like the rest of the cool kids, right?

 

[tucker74]

from a trusted source, I see a wordy order email to Kurt in my future, just to confirm the non-abs 80 is in fact “the one”

This ^

 

[Ol Yeller]

The idea starts with having a completely stock brake setup with a disc front, whether it’s a 55 or 60 series. If you just switch to a Hydro-boost and nothing else, you’d want to try to find a close GM MC to the OEM LC, which is 7/8”. As you go up in that diameter, the pedal gets stiffer and brakes don’t feel to work as well.
If you change out the calipers to the early/mid 90’s 4Runner with the larger pistons, the brakes will feel squishy but the stopping power improves. At that point if you slightly increase the bore diameter of the MC, it will slightly even out to feel more OEM normal. It’s very relative, and increasing the MC bore size too much even with the larger calipers will still cause the brakes to feel stiffer than they should.
So then, if the rear is converted to disc brakes, this introduces another change in hydraulics, whereas then another increase in MC bore size will help to balance the works back out to a more OEM feel. This looks to be the combination that settles in on the 1.125” GM MC size that evens the hydraulics out on this complete brake system change.

Rush your search-fu is good!

I’m running 60 front calipers and the GX/4runner rears, will gamble on the 1” master being about right. Will still ask @cruiseroutfit Kurt too.

I do know from my Datsun modding days that even 1/16” on the master (no booster) made a huge difference in pedal effort. What was great in the race car really sucked on the street with same calipers...just too stiff.

 

[RUSH55]

Hopefully your calipers are in better shape than mine. I think you can get seal kits through Cruiser Outfitters. Mine are so FUBAR that I’ll probably just get the 4Runner pieces.

 

[Ol Yeller]

Run 1"

Here is the reasoning:

Brake Upgrade

Some good info in the link.

Hopefully your calipers are in better shape than mine. I think you can get seal kits through Cruiser Outfitters. Mine are so FUBAR that I’ll probably just get the 4Runner pieces.

My brother got me a pair of rebuilt 60 calipers for cheap when he still owned his garage, so they just need paint to go on.