Yeah, another LS swap (1 Viewer)

[reddingcruiser]

Engine, transmission and mock-up t-case. Shifters are laid out and temporarily installed since fitting everything after the engine and trans are installed won't be possible. Pulling the tranny cover is not an option, too much carpet and Rhin-lining. I still need to modify the transmission pan to clear the driveline.

 

[reddingcruiser]

The brake lines on this rig were less than ideal. I had a set that came out of an FJ62 I parted last year and found they fit pretty well. beats the heck out of bending a bunch of steel brake line.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Motor and transmission are in for the last time and the rear crossmember is installed, and still have 21 1/2" clearance under the crossmember. (Another LS project is on rack at the far end of the shop.)
The wires laying over the brake m/c will go to the new Dakota Digital dash.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Plugging away on the radiator and air intake today, while waiting for a bunch of braided steel hose and fittings to come in for the A/T cooler and fuel system.

I've used Lokar, B&M and other aftermarket throttle cable setups but still prefer the OEM GM cable and bracket. The length is perfect for the FJ40 and requires only a small mod to the top of the skinny pedal and a round 5/8" hole through the firewall. The Holley aftermarket throttle body uses a spacer that moves the throttle lever and air intake forward 1/2" so some minor mods to the OEM bracket are required.

This motor originally came with factory throttle-by-wire (TBW) throttle body, and while I'm not opposed to TBW, I prefer converting back to a manual throttle body when I can and reprogramming the PCM. The TBW box can be a bit of a challenge to fit cleanly against the firewall, depending on the look you want. This is just easier and looks stock from the cab.

Don't panic, the throttle cable is just sitting on the booster! It fits neatly into the firewall just slightly above the original Toyota throttle location. The new cable needs to come in a little higher to allow enough travel for full throttle. Not sure though that you need full throttle from an LS 6.0 in an FJ40.

Planning where to cut the air intake and add bracket.

More layout work in progress.

 

[reddingcruiser]

This project is getting a Dakota Digital Dash with GPS. The overall vehicle wiring left a lot to be desired, so the rig is getting totally rewired. Here's one of the surprises we found when we opened he dash. I doubt I've ever seen this many splice clips in one place.

I think this will be much better!

The owner wanted to try something different on the exhaust. Rather than squeeze the passenger side exhaust past the t-case he had the muffler shop run the p/s exhaust across the front of the motor, then along side the d/s exhaust and into a FlowMaster compact dual muffler, then out each side in the rear. This method will work on an SOA FJ40, but I would be hesitant to try it on an SUA 40. The downside is you loose access to the floor below the driver, so you need to be sure you're done fabricating stuff .

The upside is the muffler guys used stainless steel turbo-style band clamps at all the connections so the muffler and pipes can be easily disassembled. If you look closely below you can see a portion of the clamps by the parking brake drum. While the passenger will appreciate the absence of the exhaust under the floor, we'll be fabricating a heat shield to provide some relief for the driver. I'll get some better pictures later.

The fuel tank still has to come out one more time for some final plumbing and electrical, but it looks pretty nice. Pictures to follow.

And, while this 40 was out getting a new exhaust, a new toy found its way into the shop!

 

[archie73]

Have you found an off shelf mounting ring for the Tahoe fuel pump?

 

[69 4 fun]

Can you speak a little more about power steering pump being too much? I have fought my ls swap steering for 25000 miles.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Have you found an off shelf mounting ring for the Tahoe fuel pump?

The lock ring itself is available from the usual culprits like Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, GM, etc.. The base, which the pump sits on and seals against, needs to be harvested from a donor gas tank or machined from steel or aluminum. If I had my lathe at the time I built my first in-tank pump I would have done it that way There are other aftermarket in-tank pumps available but this setup allows for an 'off-the-shelf' replacement almost anywhere.

 

[reddingcruiser]

Can you speak a little more about power steering pump being too much? I have fought my ls swap steering for 25000 miles.

Many later model P/S pumps run at higher pressures than in the good old days. In some cases as much as 1,350 psi.

Sometimes less is more, or lower pressure can give you a better feel. Higher pressure could also lead to early pump and/or gearbox failure. This problem typically occurs because the pump and gear box are not 'matched'. Manufacturers set pump pressures based on the gear box they have selected combined with the handling characteristics they want for a particular vehicle. When most normal folks do a P/S conversion on a 40 they are grabbing what they can get their hands on with little consideration as to how they will work together. The odds the came off the same vehicle and are truly compatable are slim. There are a couple of ways to fix the problem:

• You could use your pump and gear box as cores and purchase new or rebuilt ones from the same vehicle model
  
• If you have a Saginaw pump you can adjust the pump pressure at the pressure valve. These valves screw into the back of the pump unit and are part of the retaining nut (it's where the pressure hose connects to the pump). The pressure spring is also located just behind this nut and you remove the retaining nut and spring, some of the pressure valves have a threaded shaft with a nut on top with a series of washers (shims). These washers help determine the pressure setting for the pump. Carefully hold the valve in a vise, without damaging the outer bore, and take off the nut. Now you can change the number of washers. When you remove washers, the pressure setting of the valve (and pump) will increase. More washers equal less pressure. As mentioned, with less pressure, you would be able to get a better feel in the steering wheel for the condition of the road.
• Or, do something similar to this: ADJUSTABLE POWER STEERING VALVE (PS-101) - HEIDTS , which will make it easier to tune the pressure without making a mess every time you want to fiddle with the pressure.
• Or this: Borgeson Universal Power Steering Pump Pressure-Reducing Kits 899001

Generally speaking, with regards to pump pressure: No Shims 1350PSI, 1 Shim 1200PSI, 2 Shims 1100PSI, 3 Shims 1000PSI, 4 Shims 850PSI, 5 Shims 700PSI

 

[69 4 fun]

Thanks for all the info! What pressure should be ran for scout box?

 

[reddingcruiser]

Thanks for all the info! What pressure should be ran for scout box?

Depends on the year(s). Scout II should be between 1100 and 1200psi.

 

[69 4 fun]

Is tree a way to check pressure? Maybe inline gauge! Sorry for all the dumb questions but you seem like the first guy that thinks could be too much pressure. I have tried new gear box new pump new reservoir new cooler. Still doesn't seem quit right.

 

[newmexicokid]

What motor mounts did you use? I’m doing a GenV swap into my 40. I’ll have some challenges to solve soon in regards to power steering...GenV motors don’t have a pump. Doesn’t have a radiator fan either. I’m not sure exactly where to start as I’m thinking about motor placement. I have a bunch of room since no fan. Could you get me some pics of the motor mounts? Maybe some reference points?

 

[reddingcruiser]

What motor mounts did you use? I’m doing a GenV swap into my 40. I’ll have some challenges to solve soon in regards to power steering...GenV motors don’t have a pump. Doesn’t have a radiator fan either. I’m not sure exactly where to start as I’m thinking about motor placement. I have a bunch of room since no fan. Could you get me some pics of the motor mounts? Maybe some reference points?

I have used several different engine mounts and engine mount adapters. Personally, I like the advance Adapter mounts for off-road use. The LSX Innovations mounts work fine but require a little more forethought and fabrication to do right. LSX also makes an adapter to use the old style SBC mounts to an LS engine. They give you 3 positions to move the engine forward (or backwards) and recycle the SBC mounts if you already have a V8 conversion. On the rear mounts you are on your own, though I have modified the FJ60/62 rear crossmember with success, and the AA adapter 4L60/65e adapter is drilled for the OEM Toyota FJ60 rear transmission mount (flat bottom).

With regards to placement, I normally I line up the front of the crank pulley with the front edge of the rear rivet on the shock tower as my reference. You should be able to use this to work out a reference for your Gen V placement. This is predicated on the radiator and fan shroud I use, and the clearance I like to have between the fan clutch and radiator. If you are using an electric fan you'll have other options.

There's plenty of room to move the engine back a bit more, but the rear drive shaft problems get compounded. If you have a totally stock FJ40 suspension you are going to end up with a VERY short rear drive shaft, along the lines of about 15". If you are trying to keep a somewhat stock look on the wheelbase, you can pick up some room by flipping the rear springs or using Ruff Stuff perches and spring plates to move the axle back about 1" +/_ . If you are using a 4l80e and/or a split case, you have your work cut out for you.

FWIW, you may have already checked and noticed that the base factory GM dimensions for the Gen V are 4" taller than the Gen IV and about 3/4" longer.

There is a cure for the power steering pump issue here LT1 Gen V - Camaro Power Steering Pump Bracket .

 

[newmexicokid]

Thx for that reference picture. I have the AA motor mounts that I plan to use. Do you have any pics of how your mounts look all installed? I’m doing an OME suspension. Also planning on using a 6L80/split case combination. I’ll get you a picture later next week when I have the drivetrain mocked up. I’d love to hear your opinion. I’ve found a power steering solution that puts the pump low where that vacuum pump is. It uses a remote reservoir.

Builds - F-Bomb Buildup

So I have been a member for a while but I think this is my first post. I had a '81 FJ60 about 10 years ago and had to sell it when I purchased a new business and moved. Since then I have wanted to get another Land Cruiser. Every time my 15 year old sees one he tells me, "I bet that guys got...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[reddingcruiser]

Closing in on the finish line! After wrangling a few electrical gremlins I fired it up this morning, and it purred like a kitten. Time to top off fluids, double check fittings, and make sure everything is tucked away as it should be. We've struggled with working around the Painful Harness that was installed when the 40 was repainted and upgraded a few years ago, but we decided to just pull off the band-aid and redo the chassis side of the electrical. I prefer to set up the engine electrical entirely separate from the chassis electrical anyway. Aside from the primary leads from the battery, the Howell harness only requires two leads: full-time battery and hot with ignition on. Everything else will be set up on two 6-position fuse blocks for constant and key-on power.

Just a few things to clean up, put the plastic bling on the engine and hide a few wires.

Stock rear axle location equals custom Tom Woods driveline.

Here's another picture of the exhaust routed down the driver's side (looking forward). I had mixed emotions about doing it this way, but it freed up a bunch of real estate on the passenger side to run the fuel lines (supply and return), electrical and brake lines without worrying about heat from the exhaust pipes.

It's pretty cozy under the hood!

 

[OldRocDoc]

I am curious, Dick, why you seem to not like the GM DBW?

 

[reddingcruiser]

I am curious, Dick, why you seem to not like the GM DBW?

I don't dislike DBW, just a preference for the 'simplicity' of a manual throttle bodies. I'll do either one.

 

[badsamaritan]

Great thread, I enjoy the updates. Is that aftermarket tank running a tanks inc. pump?

 

[Jdc1]

What do you usually use for a fuel tank on your other builds?