Yaesu FT400 doesn’t really shut off (1 Viewer)

[kcjaz]

My battery has drained down a couple times since LCDC. It’s been parked in my shop for two weeks and I haven’t run or even started the engine in that time. Last weekend after it sat a week in the garage, I tested that battery and it was zero charge. I just plugged in my 2amp trickle charger and left it for all last week. Last night, I unplugged the charger but didn’t start the truck or test the battery. This morning I tested the battery and it was at zero charge. I put my 10 amp charger on it and the battery is now charging up. I noticed that my rear hatch wasn’t closed tight and (though the dome lights were off) so that was drawing some power.

I now just noticed that my Yaesu’s screen, though off was still slightly backlit.

Maybe it’s always done this and I’ve just never noticed but that seems weird. I generally do not leave the control unit plugged in and mounted except for off road trips but I have had it plugged in for roughly the last month or so. The Yaesu is powered directly to the starter battery so I can use the radio w/o the truck running. That's never been an issue before, even when I've left the radio on over night. I think my lead acid starting battery is on its way out unrelated to the Yaesu but still the backlit controller screen seems odd and it also seems weird that I've never noticed that before. I think I only noticed it now though because it is overcast and raining here today. In the sun I don't think you'd see it. Anyone with a Yaesu FT400 noticed this same partially backlit screen?

 

[TeCKis300]

I have a different brand radio, but noticed that if I were to pull the battery and re-power it, it will start in the on state. Even if it were in the off state when pulling the battery. Like you, I have it wired directly to the battery and it hasn't been a problem.

Can't say for sure, but it could be your battery is on its way out? Do you have Clamp On Ammeter? That would be able to isolate if there's too much idle draw or the battery.

 

[100kiwi]

In the "off" state my 400 pulls nothing.
I've never seen the screen backlit like that either
Edit: mine is also direct to the starter battery

 

[kcjaz]

In the "off" state my 400 pulls nothing.
I've never seen the screen backlit like that either
Edit: mine is also direct to the starter battery
View attachment 3709774

Hmm. I don’t have an amp meter. I’ll try to scrounge one up. My battery seems to be toast. Currently 98% charged but SOH is 3% testing immediately after taking the charge off. It was 100% charge and 27% SOH after I took of the 10 amp charger. Waited 10 min and tested again. Zero charge so batter is no longer taking a charge. Luckily, I have a new AGM on deck. Looks like I’ll be throwing that in tonight.

The bad battery doesn’t explain what the Yaesu is doing though. I’ve disconnected the main unit power cable too now.

 

[TeCKis300]

Hmm. I don’t have an amp meter. I’ll try to scrounge one up. My battery seems to be toast. Currently 98% charged but SOH is 3% testing immediately after taking the charge off. It was 100% charge and 27% SOH after I took of the 10 amp charger. Waited 10 min and tested again. Zero charge so batter is no longer taking a charge. Luckily, I have a new AGM on deck. Looks like I’ll be throwing that in tonight.

The bad battery doesn’t explain what the Yaesu is doing though. I’ve disconnected the main unit power cable too now.

As you just got back for LCDC, it's possible the battery boiled out. Low speed crawling is really hard on batts as it heat soaks the engine bay. Extended trips can elevate the core temps and damage it. AGMs are particularly susceptible on two fronts: they are not as tolerant to high temps, and the alternator regulator is setup for flooded lead acid temp curves.

 

[kcjaz]

As you just got back for LCDC, it's possible the battery boiled out. Low speed crawling is really hard on batts as it heat soaks the engine bay. Extended trips can elevate the core temps and damage it. AGMs are particularly susceptible on two fronts: they are not as tolerant to high temps, and the alternator regulator is setup for flooded lead acid temp curves.

I just have the AGM. I bought it without really researching it when I added my winch thinking it would be better than lead acid. My lead acid though just wouldn't die. I'm aware of the thermal concerns with AGM in the engine bay and also the need to charge at a higher voltage. I also have the HKB diode thingy and will install it too. If I had not already bought it, I'd probably go lead acid again. FWIW, I am running an AGM under the hood on my Taco for the last 3 years w/o issue.

I don't think LCDC killed my battery. Maybe that was part of it but I do that every year and it really wasn't that hot this year. I think I killed it by running it all the way to zero charge a about 3 or 4 times in the last month or so. Its an True Start 84 month batter and only 3 years old. Its just what was in my new 200 when I bought it. I wonder if I could take it to Toyota and get a warranty replacement without having been the one who purchased it.

 

[goldwater58]

I have the same radio, directly wired to my battery. I do not have this issue. I think something is up with your radio.

 

[kcjaz]

I have the same radio, directly wired to my battery. I do not have this issue. I think something is up with your radio.

Yes something funky is going on. I pulled the dead battery and replace it. Fired up the Yaesu and then turned it off and no backlit screen. I don’t understand how the bad battery would cause this on the Yaesu. Probably just totally disconnecting it from power and turning it on again reset something, like rebooting a computer. I’ll just have to keep an eye on it.

 

[Sandroad]

I’ll take a WAG and say the low voltage caused the radio gremlin. Electronics can get flaky when they don’t get the right voltage. I bet the new battery solves all the issues.

 

[TheGrrrrr]

I just have the AGM. I bought it without really researching it when I added my winch thinking it would be better than lead acid. My lead acid though just wouldn't die. I'm aware of the thermal concerns with AGM in the engine bay and also the need to charge at a higher voltage. I also have the HKB diode thingy and will install it too. If I had not already bought it, I'd probably go lead acid again. FWIW, I am running an AGM under the hood on my Taco for the last 3 years w/o issue.

I don't think LCDC killed my battery. Maybe that was part of it but I do that every year and it really wasn't that hot this year. I think I killed it by running it all the way to zero charge a about 3 or 4 times in the last month or so. Its an True Start 84 month batter and only 3 years old. Its just what was in my new 200 when I bought it. I wonder if I could take it to Toyota and get a warranty replacement without having been the one who purchased it.

I’ve been running the same X2 Power AGM in my 200 since December 2019. I did also install the diode fuse from Australia to ensure it got the proper voltage, but through the Arizona summers and lots of off-roading in every conceivable weather, it’s still going strong. Most batteries barely last 2-3 years in AZ under normal use. I obviously don’t feel like I’m at risk with my AGM under the hood with this track record.

In fact I replaced both of my batteries in the 80 series with the X2 Power within a week of purchase based on my experience in the 200. I also had similar experience with that battery in my L322. I think these days a high quality AGM is fine under the hood.

Also have the FTM-400 in both rigs and haven’t had the issue or seen any evidence of parasitic drain from either of them.

 

[Sandroad]

I just have the AGM. I bought it without really researching it when I added my winch thinking it would be better than lead acid. My lead acid though just wouldn't die. I'm aware of the thermal concerns with AGM in the engine bay and also the need to charge at a higher voltage. I also have the HKB diode thingy and will install it too. If I had not already bought it, I'd probably go lead acid again. FWIW, I am running an AGM under the hood on my Taco for the last 3 years w/o issue.

I don't think LCDC killed my battery. Maybe that was part of it but I do that every year and it really wasn't that hot this year. I think I killed it by running it all the way to zero charge an about 3 or 4 times in the last month or so. Its a True Start 84 month batter and only 3 years old. Its just what was in my new 200 when I bought it. I wonder if I could take it to Toyota and get a warranty replacement without having been the one who purchased it.

Even though you have a battery, I think it’s worth asking a dealer about the TrueStart warranty. You might get a new one.

 

[kcjaz]

I’ve been running the same X2 Power AGM in my 200 since December 2019. I did also install the diode fuse from Australia to ensure it got the proper voltage, but through the Arizona summers and lots of off-roading in every conceivable weather, it’s still going strong. Most batteries barely last 2-3 years in AZ under normal use. I obviously don’t feel like I’m at risk with my AGM under the hood with this track record.

In fact I replaced both of my batteries in the 80 series with the X2 Power within a week of purchase based on my experience in the 200. I also had similar experience with that battery in my L322. I think these days a high quality AGM is fine under the hood.

Also have the FTM-400 in both rigs and haven’t had the issue or seen any evidence of parasitic drain from either of them.

Put the same X2 battery in the LC. Added the HKB MK4 diode thingy and with all 5 dip switches on was getting about +0.8v boost and 14 to 14.1 volts with hot engine.

I did check my Odyssey AGM in my Taco and while fully charged (had been sitting since Friday night), it was only 46% SOH. It’s a 3 year warranty battery and I’m 3.5 years on it. For the stock Taco, I think I’ll go back to a True Start 84 month lead acid. It’s only $200 and will last the 7 years based on my experience in other vehicles ( though I just killed one in my cruiser).

 

[linuxgod]

I think you're aware but to confirm I have the identical radio and that Yaesu behavior is not normal... when you turn it off by holding the power for a few seconds, it should go completely off. Mine is wired always-on, so I have to remember to turn it off. (I tried the APO function but was annoyed that on a long trip it would shut off because I wasn't actively using it, even though I wanted it to push GPS location via APRS in the background)

 

[kcjaz]

In the "off" state my 400 pulls nothing.
I've never seen the screen backlit like that either
Edit: mine is also direct to the starter battery
View attachment 3709774

How do you like the GTC amp meter? Seems a little expensive but appears to be a quality unit. The super cheap ones don't read DC mA.

 

[100kiwi]

How do you like the GTC amp meter? Seems a little expensive but appears to be a quality unit. The super cheap ones don't read DC mA.

I like it. I've had it about 6 years and never an issue.
Yes expensive but worth it I think
The jaw fits up to 4 gauge wire.

 

[Markuson]

My battery has drained down a couple times since LCDC. It’s been parked in my shop for two weeks and I haven’t run or even started the engine in that time. Last weekend after it sat a week in the garage, I tested that battery and it was zero charge. I just plugged in my 2amp trickle charger and left it for all last week. Last night, I unplugged the charger but didn’t start the truck or test the battery. This morning I tested the battery and it was at zero charge. I put my 10 amp charger on it and the battery is now charging up. I noticed that my rear hatch wasn’t closed tight and (though the dome lights were off) so that was drawing some power.

I now just noticed that my Yaesu’s screen, though off was still slightly backlit.

View attachment 3709672

Maybe it’s always done this and I’ve just never noticed but that seems weird. I generally do not leave the control unit plugged in and mounted except for off road trips but I have had it plugged in for roughly the last month or so. The Yaesu is powered directly to the starter battery so I can use the radio w/o the truck running. That's never been an issue before, even when I've left the radio on over night. I think my lead acid starting battery is on its way out unrelated to the Yaesu but still the backlit controller screen seems odd and it also seems weird that I've never noticed that before. I think I only noticed it now though because it is overcast and raining here today. In the sun I don't think you'd see it. Anyone with a Yaesu FT400 noticed this same partially backlit screen?

Do you, by chance, have a OBD2 plugged in…or a bluetooth version plugged it? If so…many of them suck SERIOUS power whenever plugged in, regardless of truck status.

Thos is why I finally got a ohysically in-line power-switch for the OBD2 I have connected 24/7. Without tgat, it killed the batterysurprisingly quickly.

I have the 400 and mine does shut off completely according to voltage meter…

 

[Markuson]

I think you're aware but to confirm I have the identical radio and that Yaesu behavior is not normal... when you turn it off by holding the power for a few seconds, it should go completely off. Mine is wired always-on, so I have to remember to turn it off. (I tried the APO function but was annoyed that on a long trip it would shut off because I wasn't actively using it, even though I wanted it to push GPS location via APRS in the background)

Same. NOT normal. My 400 draws nothing when powered off via it’s screen/button array.

 

[kcjaz]

Do you, by chance, have a OBD2 plugged in…or a bluetooth version plugged it? If so…many of them suck SERIOUS power whenever plugged in, regardless of truck status.

Thos is why I finally got a ohysically in-line power-switch for the OBD2 I have connected 24/7. Without tgat, it killed the batterysurprisingly quickly.

I have the 400 and mine does shut off completely according to voltage meter…

I do have an OBD2 permanently plugged in but it is a USB type plugged into the head unit and doesn't consume any power with the ignition off. Or so I think...

 

[Markuson]

I do have an OBD2 permanently plugged in but it is a USB type plugged into the head unit and doesn't consume any power with the ignition off. Or so I think...

The OBD2 part that does suck power is the plug above the driver’s foot-well.

 

[TeCKis300]

That'll depend on the specific OBD-II dongle. I have a wireless one permanently plugged in that has a sleep function so barely draws anything.