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MMMMMmm didn't know this existed. Very interesting if ones trying to do flexy low SOA. I too like Steel hood (w/ spearI), but the 69' I'm working on already has non OEM fender I was just going to cut higher and allow the tire to push against (w/ "tuned" bump stops). Guess I'll need to finish suspension build and just see "where I'm at". Thanks for showing this, I missed it.
 
You could do it with steel too. 450.00 is pretty cheap in my opinion otherwise. I personally think 35s with no lift will be too low. It will climb and decend steep rock slabs great, but in rock gardens I would think the undercarriage would hit a lot. Here is a link of steel fenders raised...
What I don't like is how the fenders stick out past the grill far more than stock. You would need to section the fender to avoid that which wouldn't be hard. I would probably do 2.5" suspension lift using lifted rear fj60 springs front and rear, a body lift, and the raised fenders. Would probably be a fairly capable/stable rig.
 
$450 was much much cheaper than I was expecting. Almost worth considering. But it does give me some ideas.

I was going to try to maintain the fender stickout. Just move it upward.

Any vehicle of mine will no longer be mine if they even sniff a body lift... especially an FJ40. I detest the look and they take a ton of work to disguise. Since I'm going Dana 60 axle, I'm gaining ~400lbs down low :eek:

I'm 99% set on the suspension duplicating what I did on my 71 FJ55: 99 rear Tahoe springs(54"), leaf spring sliders instead of shackles, and stock spring spacing. I haven't fully done the measuring but it looks like it will work. I might drop an add-a-leaf to get one inch if the engine requires it. I might notch the rear frame for clearance if travel require it. I have no stock springs what-so-ever so it is a scratch build... my 40 frame is also missing all front spring brackets.
I gained another 2" of up travel from my body lift and avoided 2" of suspension lift which greatly aided cog. Thats why I did mine. With my cut rockers it allowed me to create a type of boatsided effect from the frame to the body and I rarely even hit the sliders now as a result. If I raised the fenders I would have another 2 or 3" of uptravel but I really don't want to modify the body any more. Having a low suspension to a point is nice because of cog. But also having it too low will get you more capability in some areas, but trade for less capability in other areas. So you just have to weigh what you want. Their is a guy in australia with a 40 running 40s with no lift. The pics are on google somewhere. I personally think 2 to 3" of suspension lift over stock will not hurt too much in climbing capability. 54" springs would flex nice Im sure.
 
You could also section your fender aprons.
 
IIRC @SNLC has done some work like this to accomodate similar to what your thinking. I recall something with shortened aprons, anyhow. Maybe he’ll chime in if I’m not way off base.
 
You can mount the factory style hooks so they angle forward and hook to the Bib, I have seen that done.
 
A guy in Yankee Toys did this years ago and even did a ROTM write-up. Maybe this will give you an idea or two...


Nick
 

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