WTF? Driveshaft splines stuck. (1 Viewer)

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LukeZero

LukeZero

Joined
Aug 11, 2002
Threads
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Location
Elkhart, Indiana
So, on the back of Bugly- I have a Spicer 1350 series CV joint, about 8" of slip splines, then a Tom Woods goofy off-set U-joint. Since I pulled the Cruiser case and installed the Minitruck case- I was measuring for driveshaft modifications and I find that the shaft won't extend or collapse. So I'm figuring its 'hydraulically bound-up' because it's pumped full of grease. I pull the zerk fitting. Still won't collapse. Put all my weight on it- won't move. Put it in the shop press- 2000 lbs pressure- won't move. Strap one end to the base of the engine hoist to see if I can extend it- won't move. It's either hellaciously rusted- or the splines have been twisted and are now bound together.

I guess my next stop is Action Machine to see how much it'll cost for them to cut out the splines, re-use the CV end and the yoke end and make me a new shaft. (It needed to be shortened anyway- so I guess here's my chance).

Any ideas what the fu*k is going on with this driveshaft?

Luke
 
The first and last trip that the Bugly made when Nick owned it, he twisted the rear driveshaft in two within the first 20 minutes. Without a traction bar, the axle wrap was very severe. He was able to limp it back to the Badlands shop where he lucked out and found that they had another Tom Woods shaft in stock that happened to be the right length. He wheeled the rest of the day once it was repaired, but he was fighting to keep the axle wrap under control. I guess it wouldn't surprise me that something was twisted considering the severe angles that it has been put through. :frown:
 
Update- the machine shop pulled it apart and confirmed that yes, the splines were twisted. Also, it's not 1350 like I thought- it's 1310 series. Obviously not strong enough for this application.

Interesting tidbit- the guy at the counter said that the Tom Woods gold seal U-joints are made in China and are weaker than stock Spicer pieces. The only difference between them and generic Chinese pieces is the special gold seals. Really a stroke of marketing genius on Woods part.

I think somewhere I have a Toyota CV driveshaft that will find its way into the back of Bugly. Now I need to figure out a companion flange with the proper bolt pattern.

Luke
 
LukeZero said:
I think somewhere I have a Toyota CV driveshaft that will find its way into the back of Bugly. Now I need to figure out a companion flange with the proper bolt pattern.

Luke
Click to expand...



What is your transfer case?


What is your rear axle?
 
Rear axle 1350 series yoke on GM 14 bolt
Rear transfer output is minitruck gear driven flange. (from an 89 4Runner)

I have a minitruck CV driveshaft that has a different bolt pattern than what's drilled in the output flange. I'm thinking of getting this--->Triple Drilled T/Case Flange | Marlin Crawler, Inc., but I need to call them and make certain it has the proper pattern first.

Then- I need to have the machine shop retube one of these shafts with Toy CV on one end and 1350 yoke on the other end.


The only challenge to this idea that I haven't figured out yet is that the slip splines are attached to the non-CV end of the Toyota shaft. Maybe I'll need to use GM splines to 1350 yoke.
 
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UPDATE: I decided to use a front CV driveshaft from a mini-truck. The output flange on the transfer case didn't have the proper bolt pattern- so I removed it, plug welded the holes that were in the wrong place, welded some 'ears' onto the perimeter of the flange (because the bolt pattern is almost as large as the outer diameter), milled it flat on both sides (to flatten the welds), and redrilled it for the larger bolt pattern.

I found that Jesse at High Angle Driveline makes a 14 bolt pinion flange that accepts the Toyota bolt pattern. It's a little spendy, but only because it took some serious engineering to make it work. The challenge was that the bore that allows the driveshaft to 'index' into the flange is smaller than the pinion nut. (ie, no way to get the nut in if the bore is the proper size). He figured out a two piece assembly that allows for the pinion nut to be properly torqued, then the outer piece installed, which centers the driveshaft.

I need to clearance the Toyota CV head to allow it operate at a higher degree of angle, but overall I'm getting this figured out.

Luke
 
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