Wrenching Session (1 Viewer)

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I'd love to, but my next wrenching session will be a knuckle rebuild that I'll be doing in the comfort of my own shop.........once it has new wall panels up :D
 
I'm in. Almost have the new garage all setup. Just finished wiring up the outlet for the welder and compressor. What work do you guys need done? At some point I have to start an axle rebuild and SOA.

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climber8483 said:
I'm in. Almost have the new garage all setup. Just finished wiring up the outlet for the welder and compressor. What work do you guys need done? At some point I have to start an axle rebuild and SOA.

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Where to start? :D The biggest issue right now is that I'm pretty sure my transfer case is toast, but don't have the tools or knowledge to determine if that's the case. Adam from Torfab has a couple for me to choose from, but I want to make sure that a cheaper repair is out of the question.

Anyone on here have experience with the 62 transfer case/transfer cases in general that might be able to help me pull it apart/diagnose it?
 
I believe Aron knows about those, Spook may too. What is it doing? I'm assuming you've started a thread in the 6x series forum? I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to pull. I do remember Aron saying that you have to almost pull the t-case apart to get separate it from the transmission.

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Yeah, the split design means it can't be removed as one assembly. Luckily it's not too difficult to tell if something's wrong. Gotta be careful, like with anything else (and I haven't done one myself, so take this with a grain of salt), but reading the procedure in the FSM it looks much easier than rebuilding a pump or a manual tranny. IIRC you still need a press or at least a good set of brass drifts to get stuff apart, but i haven't read through the procedure in a while.
 
I did the McNamara gear thing... fixed my clunk. I did the work in the dirt, no special tools other than a larger socket from tool pawn. Buy the OEM gasket set. The parts inside the t-case are robust, except for the PTO gear and spacer setup (which causes the clunk from D to R). Easy 3 banana fix.

Britt, your t-case is still at my house connected to the 4-spd transmission from that 60.
 
Aron,
I figured as much. Just starting to dive into the SOA. Doubt I'll be pulling the trigger on the doubler for a while so no rush on separating the case just for me. If you're looking to do it so you can do your trans swap let me know and I'll come help.

Or we can do it when Cole wants to fix his t-case.

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climber8483 said:
I believe Aron knows about those, Spook may too. What is it doing? I'm assuming you've started a thread in the 6x series forum? I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to pull. I do remember Aron saying that you have to almost pull the t-case apart to get separate it from the transmission.

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At the Overland Rally this summer we were driving along some fire roads in 4H and I started to hear a loud mechanical whine along with some pretty serious vibration over 10 mph. Attempted to take it out of 4H, the sound continued and it wouldn't come out of 4H. Towed it back to camp with transmission and transfer case in neutral. Still loud clunking and mechanical, metal on metal noise along with vibration above 10 mph even with both in neutral. Back at camp figured out how to reverse the vacuum for the transfer case under the truck. In RWD, no noise or vibration. Put it back in 4H, vibration and mechanical noises resumed.

Haven't drained the oil to check for metal shavings, but opened up the fill plug and there was definitely oil in there.
 
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Did you check your front u-joints or any play in the front output?

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I'm going to make a guess that its the front prop shaft u-joints. If it were indeed the T-case, it would still be making noise. And it would have migrated metal bits all around the T-case, thus trashing it completely.

Simple test: Take the front shaft off. Drive it around. Put in in 4HI, drive around. Put the hubs in, drive around again.

Man, I'd like to help but my Fall weekends are full of things the kids do, hunting and trying my hardest to get my shed closed up.
 
So I was able to find some time this weekend to try to diagnose the problem, taking into account your guys ideas. I removed the front prop shaft and was able to drive the truck around in 4HI and 4LOW with no noise at all. There was oil leaking from the front of the transfer case when I removed the prop shaft but without the prop shaft there wasn't the noise that I had experienced over the summer so I believe that the problem is with the front propshaft. I'm very relieved that this isn't going to be a $600 transfer case replacement so thank you all for the recommendations!

However it's not all good news. When I went to put the truck into 4HI, the light on the dash never came on, but I could tell that the transfer case was engaged especially when I shifted into 4LO. After I had driven the truck around in 4WD without the prop shaft, I went to disengage 4WD and the transfer case wouldn't disengage. I reversed the vacuum lines both under the hood as well as the ones that connect to the transfer case. One or the other of these has always worked to disengage the transfer case when I've had this issue before. I've left the front prop shaft disconnected. Any other recommendations for what might be causing the transfer case to stay engaged?


Thanks again :steer:
 
Of course the day I take the front prop shaft out, it snows... :hmm:

It shifts very smoothly into 4-Low so that seems to be a good indication that there isn't anything major going on inside the transfer case. When I get some time I'm going to try out the 4-High switch again to see if I just wasn't building enough vacuum driving back and forth down the block. If not, I'm guessing I'll be replacing the solenoids.

If I buy a new front prop shaft, is there an easy way to balance the new one at home or would it be better to bring it to a professional shop?
 
For the prop shaft you just need new u-joints. When you pull it apart just mark everything so that you can put it back together in the same position and you shouldn't have a problem. I've done about a dozen this way.

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Are there any good driveline shops here that will press out old uni's and press new ones in?

I ordered the parts from Kurt at cruiser outfitters then had a shop in Tacoma do mine... it's well worth the $$.

I dropped my prop shaft off with the parts and picked it up the next day for $26.

If that's an option, I would recommend it!
 
That's really cheap, though I've never called around for pricing. We have two or three decent driveline shops. I've heard good things about both Murl's and Watts. Six states on Trent would be a good place too. I've done all of my sets with either a C-clamp or a bench vise.

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Here's what $26 got me at Fleet Pride (I supplied u-joints):

image-1548845394.jpg
 
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